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#1
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Thoughts on Replacement Radiator?
My '81 300SD has been running hotter than normal (now about 95-100 versus 85 historically). On hills, reaching over 100... Thermostat and coolant replaced about a year ago. The radiator is over ten years old, so I plan on biting the bullet and replacing it. In reading thru some threads on the matter, it sounds like an aluminum replacement would be the best option. Anyone have strong opinions, one way or the other? Any brands preferred? Nissens, Behr, etc?
The last time I had it replaced (July of 1999), it was done as an emergency, somewhere off the beaten path in Georgia.... Don't want that to happen to me again... Thanks in advance for input...
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Mine: 1987 MB 420 SEL - 62K (Dec 2019) Mine:1991 MB 350SDL - 244K (Aug 2011)- Totalled 9/14/2016 Mine:1981 MB 300SD - 326K mi (July 1997)-sold Wife's: 2008 MB C300 Sport - 92K mi (April 2009) Last edited by dcotejr; 03-23-2011 at 04:23 PM. |
#2
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No strong opinions here - sorry! But I'd look for a cheaper option first like muck stuck between the cooling fins / bent cooling fins... a slipping water pump pulley... correct coolant level...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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If the price between the two isn't significant, go with Behr.
The Nissens on mine has been doing good since 2005.
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#4
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I had a Nissens in the 84 and a MB Behr in the 85. No difference noticed. But the price on the Nissens is usually much cheaper.
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'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto '19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled '21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition '95 E300d - SOLD '84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one '81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter |
#5
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Thanks...
In looking through a number of websites, the Behr seems to be at least $100 more expensive. Do both of these have the engine oil cooler integral to them?
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Mine: 1987 MB 420 SEL - 62K (Dec 2019) Mine:1991 MB 350SDL - 244K (Aug 2011)- Totalled 9/14/2016 Mine:1981 MB 300SD - 326K mi (July 1997)-sold Wife's: 2008 MB C300 Sport - 92K mi (April 2009) |
#6
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Engine oil cooler, no.
Transmission oil/fluid cooler, yes, since the turbodiesels never came with manual transmissions the radiators designed for these engines had the transmission cooler.
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#7
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Ahh, I stand corrected. So both of these would have the transmission fluid cooler integral to the radiator?
Thanks so much for your input. I truly enjoy learning about my MB, and there seems to be many who are willing to share their knowledge... Don
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Mine: 1987 MB 420 SEL - 62K (Dec 2019) Mine:1991 MB 350SDL - 244K (Aug 2011)- Totalled 9/14/2016 Mine:1981 MB 300SD - 326K mi (July 1997)-sold Wife's: 2008 MB C300 Sport - 92K mi (April 2009) |
#8
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I would hit it with a Mercedes Citrus Flush first
Then fresh ZEREX G05 with my frugal 2cts
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1999 Mercedes E300TD daily driver sold at 238K miles 106K miles were mine, rust worm got it :-( 2006 Mercedes CDI new daily driver! 56,000 miles May 2016 now 85,625 Apr 2018 and Apr 2019 101,000 miles Apr 2020 109,875. March 2024 135,250 |
#9
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+1, citric acid flush, make sure your system is clean and clear. Make sure your ratios are correct.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#10
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Ebay has good prices on radiators.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#11
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first step would be to get an infrared thermometer and verify rad temps input and output... see what' temps you are getting... heck, measure the head temps too. you could just have a bad temp sender... then I'd pull the thermostat, and test to see if it opens at the correct temp, then I'd focus on the fan clutch... THEN worry about the radiator. they are well designed, and are RARELY the issue with overheating on these cars, if the coolant is maintained properly!
I'd pull yours, (it's not hard at all) and get some good condenser coil cleaner and soak it down really well. then rinse it off from the fan side out, and get it SUPER clean inside and out before tossing it to the curb. it's amazing how much gunk gets past the a/c condenser into the radiator fins.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#12
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Listen to vstech and start by pulling the radiator and inspecting the outside of the radiator.
Does light pass through easily ?? I purchased and was ready to instal a new radiator and after cleaning the debris out from the fins it was not necessary. A few weeks ago I pulled a brand new radiator from a junkyard benz and passed on buying it. Just could not justify it. What I have learned is that with proper maintenance it just may not be needed. My two almost thirty year old cars have the originals. But I have cleaned the fins. Replaced a lot of water pumps, and a few thermostats. The wierdest thing that clogs up mine is something that looks like hair. Hair does not seem to break down. So some official radiator fin cleaner or Drano will dissolve it. I used a lot of air pressure and shop vac in blow and suck mode from both sides to really clean the fins. Just my 2 cents.
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
#13
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Whilst you are looking at the radiator have a look at the condition of the flexible transmission cooler lines - I read here on this forum somewhere that if these start to come apart the debris can knacker your transmission. These lines are a simple quite cheap - although a bit messy - fix. Well worth the extra $30 or whatever they cost (don't quote me on the price I'm totally guessing)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#14
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When got my '84 Euro 300TD three years ago, , I replaced the radiator because it was running hot (95-100C) and there were traces it was starting a tiny leal. The new radiator didn't cure the hot condition, but since then I've checked with one of those infra-red thermometers and it's actualy about 5C lower than what the guage reads.
However, one issue I'd have with an otherwise good original radiator is the hose-necks can snap off the aged plastic tanks without warning. So I'm glad I replaced mine, since the AC still works on this car, and I do take it on occasional trips to Virginia Beach. Personally, I prefer the old style brass-copper radiators as they aren't subject to 'broken neck' syndrome and they are repairable. Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
#15
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Personally, I prefer the old style brass-copper radiators as they aren't subject to 'broken neck' syndrome and they are repairable.
Boy you and me too.I'm thinking when my 83 goes,I will order a brass one for the 80 model SD.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
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