I've decide to give changing the tach and some of the other guages a shot on my own. I've read in some other posts that to remove the instrument panel it is sometimes easier to remove the driver side speaker and reach in and "push" the guages out. Has anyone done this and how difficult is it to replace the dimmer, tach, and oil pressure/temp instuments?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Andrew

I believe your's is a 123 as well as my 1977 300D.

1. remove the kick panel and the underdash panel, just find the screws and undo them.

2. Unscrew the speedometer/odometer cable, which tended to hold my instrument panel in. I found that accessing it from underneath was the easiest.

3. Push the instrument panel out from the back until you can get to the oil line to the oil gauge. Unbolt the oil line to the gauge, uses two different sizes of metric, I can't remember the sizes. Remember, this is a live oil line, I put the end of the line in a ziploc bag with a paper towel inside to prevent drips, and for gosh sakes don't start the car unless you want an oil bath.

4. Then it is just a matter of orienting the instrument panel and unplugging wires to the panel, and pulling the panel out.

Installation is the reverse, but make sure the gasket is aligned properly.

Just as a side note, replace all of the bulbs, but stick with the same wattage as not to melt any housings.

Also, try the attached thread on dim instrument lighting, a little trick I tried that worked,,,,for once.

JCD

Andrew:

You did not mention the body style, so I am assuming it is the W123 since this style was made up to 1985 and your car is a 1983.

I reach the instrument cluster from underneath the dash. Avoiding wires and other connections, I push on the cluster toward the driver's seat. I place a fender cover (or a towel or other piece of cloth) on the steering wheel column to protect things. Also, the cluster comes out easier by, from the engine compartment, pushing the speedo cable and oil pressure line into the driver's compartment to give some slack to ease the removal of the cluster - you can do this after initially freeing the cluster and then feed more of the speedo cable oil pressure line until you have enough room to work behind the cluster to remove the fittings, electrical connectors, etc. so that the cluster can be completely removed from the car. You have to remove the panels beneath the dash to access the back of the instrument cluster from underneath the dash (four Philips screws and a little manipulation to remove the panels).

I never tried to reach the instrument cluster from the L. front speaker hole. It looks like you may be able to reach the cluster from there, but the hole is small (a 4" speaker and the place for the magnet is smaller as I recall) and I don't think my hand, wrist, and perhaps arm would fit through the speaker hole. But, hey who knows till you try it - let us know if it works.

The back of the cluster has Philips head screws holding the gauges in place in an overlap of sections (you'll see what I mean when you look at the back of the cluster). Be orderly and place things in a group based on where they came from so the re-assembly will be easier (a sketch also works). You will see how the various gauges are connected to the cluster and use the appropriate tool to remove them (usually a screwdriver). The trip odometer button connects with a u-shaped piece to the speedo and has to be dis-connected simply by finding the correct angle as the speedo is removed. Be careful when handling the gauges and try to avoid getting fingerprints on the instruments faces or bending the needles, and other parts. Consider putting a bit of lube on the speedo gears when you re-assemble the cluster to extend its life.

This is how I worked on my cluster, a '77 300D W123. I believe your car is similar.

Hope this helps - Good Luck!
Tom

Other members may reply with their own experiences to help you.

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1977 300D: 300,000+ miles

American Honda: Factory Trained Technician & Honor Grad.
Formerly:
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That sounds easy enough. I'll order the tach, bulbs, temp guage, and other needed items.

Sounds like it would take about 1-2 hours?

Come spring time, rebuild the front seat(coils and cushion) and then have the ac checked and filled. At that point the car will be 100% mechanical and I can get into replacing worn door and and window gaskets as well as the beat trim pieces.

It certainly seems that this car is staying with me for awhile..

thanks for the feed back!

Andrew