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  #1  
Old 03-27-2011, 09:57 AM
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Oil Pan Removal

When removing the oil pan, what is the recommended sealant to use when putting it back on?

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Old 03-27-2011, 10:02 AM
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None? It has a gasket.
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Old 03-27-2011, 10:34 AM
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Ok, possibly a dumber question, does the gasket get installed dry ?
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Old 03-27-2011, 11:24 AM
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When I did mine, I put a smear of balck RTV on the pan and secured the gasket to it. When I say "smear", that's what I mean. Not enough to squeeze out when it's tightened. The joint between the gasket and the engine was left dry. One year later, no leaks.
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rscurtis View Post
When I did mine, I put a smear of balck RTV on the pan and secured the gasket to it. When I say "smear", that's what I mean. Not enough to squeeze out when it's tightened. The joint between the gasket and the engine was left dry. One year later, no leaks.
I did the same but with the Old Gasket that I completely removed from the Pan and degreased the Gasket and the Pan with Brake Cleaner so that the Silicon would actually glue itsel to the Pan.

After the Pan was re-installed I let it sit for 3 or so hours (before filling it with Oil or running the Engine) so that the Silicone would cure. That way if anything squeezed out it would remain attached to the rest of the Silicone.

No leaks so far.
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:12 PM
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Having replaced several oil pans recently due to rutted dirt road and wife/teenage drivers, I have done them all with just a new gasket and no RTV with no leaks.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:17 PM
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Gasket, dry. They are both machined metal surfaces and need no sealant.
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Gasket, dry. They are both machined metal surfaces and need no sealant.
Please explain the "both Machined metal surfaces". The sealing area on my pan is made no differently than the on my 1953 Chevy Pick-up Truck.

However, the Mercedes Pan Gasket is at least double the thickness; if not more than of most Pan Gaskets I have seen and the spacing of the Pan Bolts is closer. Those 2 make for better sealing.
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Old 03-28-2011, 06:01 PM
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I knew the "which car is it" would come into play at some point. I've been assuming 606. Most of the replies apply to all of them, 617/603/606.
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  #10  
Old 03-28-2011, 06:58 PM
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On my '84 Euro NA TD, I used a bit of ultre-black RTV on my lower pan, as the local dummy parts-guy ordered the wrong gasket, so I had to re-use the original.

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Old 03-28-2011, 09:57 PM
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Good point.

The original post/poster only lists a 606 car, so I posted the correct answer for the 601/2/3/4/5/6 engine.

If the original post were for a 61x engine (stamped pan), the answer might be different.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Good point.

The original post/poster only lists a 606 car, so I posted the correct answer for the 601/2/3/4/5/6 engine.

If the original post were for a 61x engine (stamped pan), the answer might be different.
Thanks for the Info; have not seen the pans on the newer than mine models.

But, I have also read that some Members say to use no sealant on mine either.

If both sides of the Oil Pan are machined he may just need to tighten up the bolts within spec; as the Gaskets shrink over time.
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Old 03-29-2011, 01:21 PM
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And if you glue a gasket on to a 60x car with the aluminum pan, please glue it to the block side! It is much more difficult to scrape a gasket from aluminum than cast-iron.

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