Do I have this right? Breaker Bar UNDER the passenger side frame rail with 28 mm socket, bump starter to use starter force to loosen nut - - - - correct?

27mm. Otherwise, sounds like a plan. I'd consider using a buffer of some sort. A block of wood, perhaps....

Jay.

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On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

so 27mm socket and breaker bar UNDER the Passenger side frame rail as engine turns clockwise when facing it, yes?

Well, an impact wrench and maybe a little heat would be the way for me. You're way sounds like it should work, provided the socket doesn't fall off the bolt head the minute the starter is engaged. Might want to glue it on there with some gasket maker.... I would be more than a little concerned about tearing up the head on that bolt!

Jay.

__________________
On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

OK, who knows the best way to do this. I think I dropped a water pump bolt in the HB and want to pull the whole damn thing to both find the missing bolt and inspect the front seal and most likely replace. Who has pulled a pulley/HB assembly on OM617 engine (300sd) I assume pulley and HB all come free with removal of nut?

Its a bolt. A big giant one. Get an impact wrench. You'll probably need a puller, too. I used a medium-sized two jaw puller. Put the arms on a couple of the pulley bolts that I backed about 1cm out and the "pusher" on the loosened crank bolt.

Your starter thing sounds like a reasonable alternative. I've also heard of folks locking the flywheel, elevating the front end, then lowering the car onto the arm of the breaker bar, which is resting on the floor/ground.

Many ways to skin a cat.

Best of luck.

Jay.

__________________
On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

I have an impact gun - and I think I can use an existing jaw puller that I have -there are three pulley bolts yes?

Six. Either 5 or 6mm socket head.

If your impact doesn't do it on the first go, heat and cool the bolt a few times. Obviously, make sure the crank doesn't turn backwards in the process of doing this.

The water pump bolts are nothing special. M5x.8 or .9. I, personally, wouldn't sweat the one you lost, too much. Maybe crank the engine over by hand to see if you can get it to fall out. As far as leakage at the front main, well, does it lose oil? Is the front of the engine covered in oil?

Making more work for yourself than is truly necessary? I mean, if you've got time to burn, well, why not?

Jay

__________________
On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

Part of me wants to say "oh well" and just replace the water pump after finding a replacement bolt (easy) but I must say I always enjoy the learning experience side of things and I do have a little time . . . . Who am I kidding?!!! I am addicted to working on these MB diesels -I think I need help, AA for dieselheads

Postnote: Thinking further, in the next couple of years, fuel prices will spike and we will be quite happy to be driving a versatile old diesel, therefore it behooves us to take care of the ass that bears us!

I've tried that on other vehicles with no luck. Heat and impact seemed to work on those. I've done three of these on Mercedes OM117's, and never needed to use the heat part. Pay attention to the washers behind the pulley. I used a cut off crank bolt for the pushing part of the puller.

__________________
79 MB 280 SEL Euro 133k
77 MB 450SL 154k
05 Mustang GT Vert (3) 104k
12 TSX Wagon Tech (66k) (192k)
06 Subaru Outback base (135k) 164k
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97 Ford Ranger 163k
11 RAV4 154k
01 Escape 173k
04 Honda Pilot 292k
1967 Mustang (Resto Project)
1968 Mustang (Parts Bin)
00 Ford Ranger 124k

I would advise against using your starter motor in this way - but hey it is your car!

Mercedes designed a flywheel lock that is meant to be fitted to the bottom of the engine just in front of the bell housing at the start of the block. Some advise locking the flywheel by wedging something in the starter hole:-

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=284511

(Information specific to OM617 / 616)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!