A/C recommendations for the MB vehicles - Page 15 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

leathermang · #**211** 10-19-2011, 08:17 PM

LOL, OK , that makes more sense.... I was being overly optimistic...

dieseldan44 · #**212** 10-19-2011, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I believe he heated the adapters slightly to loosen any loctite from the fittings, and unscrewed the adapters. I doubt he actually removed the fittings from the lines!

^^ yea, just removing the 134a adapters to expose the old R12 fittings.

leathermang · #**213** 10-20-2011, 12:15 AM

Ok...so you are back to R12 fittings without twisting your lines into knots.... that is great.... are you going to renew the fitting core and proceed ? Be sure to wet the sealing surface with a drop of ac oil...not spit like you would on a bicycle valve core....LOL

dieseldan44 · #**214** 10-20-2011, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Ok...so you are back to R12 fittings without twisting your lines into knots.... that is great.... are you going to renew the fitting core and proceed ? Be sure to wet the sealing surface with a drop of ac oil...not spit like you would on a bicycle valve core....LOL

How would I renew the valve core on the hose?

Seems like I need a new valve core and a valve core remover tool. If you have a link handy that would be great.

Also, for compressor installation, the compressorworks guide says to put 2-3 oz of oil in to the compressor and spin it 10-20 times with a spanner wrench before installation. I need to find a spanner wrench :-)

As I work on my write up, the main hurdle to get over for newbies is acquiring all the tools - you cant buy them in stores, at least up here.

vstech · #**215** 10-20-2011, 07:50 PM

the R12 fittings use the same type of valve core tool a bicycle would. the core needs to be an A/C style though.

dieseldan44 · #**216** 10-25-2011, 01:45 PM

question - condenser replacement.

it seems that a condenser is about $225 from Phil, if he can get one. My condenser seems OK and with no obvious flaws.

should I clean it with commercial cleaner and go from there?

is it possible to flush one of the old style 'serial' flow condensers like those on the W123's successfully? (ill take it off the vehicle)

this is in context of my 134 to R12 deconversion.

vstech · #**217** 10-25-2011, 01:55 PM

not only is it possible, it's recommended!inside use proper flush agent, and Nitrogen, then the coil should be cleaned with condenser cleaner, and the fins should all be straightened!

dieseldan44 · #**218** 10-25-2011, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

not only is it possible, it's recommended!inside use proper flush agent, and Nitrogen, then the coil should be cleaned with condenser cleaner, and the fins should all be straightened!

OK...cool. Going this route first. If the condenser subsequently leaks, then I'll get a new one.

vstech you're saying use coil cleaner on the INSIDE of the condenser as opposed to flush solvent?

vstech · #**219** 10-25-2011, 02:20 PM

no. use flush solvent on the inside.
sorry.

dieseldan44 · #**220** 10-26-2011, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

no. use flush solvent on the inside.
sorry.

now i need to find evaporator cleaner :-) nobody seems to carry it locally.

dieseldan44 · #**221** 10-26-2011, 09:20 AM

OK, Ive got almost all my A/C gear.

vstech and LM, can you describe, so I may follow and document the procedure:

how to do the R22 4 oz / inert gas test charge?

The part I am confused about is how do you know how much inert gas to put into the system after the 4oz of refrigerant.

You describe here really well, I'll write it up so you never have to describe it again :-)

vstech · #**222** 10-26-2011, 12:03 PM

squirt in the 4oz R22, then attach the nitrogen/whatever, and bring the pressure up to 100 psi or so.
then let it sit for 20 minutes at least, and start sniffing around with the detector at each major part, joint, etc until the sniffer goes bonkers. if you can't get close to the car without the sniffer going off, turn on a fan blowing on the car to reduce the content of gas for the sniffer, so you can zero in on the leak.

leathermang · #**223** 10-26-2011, 12:39 PM

First be sure your sniffer is working..... I loaned my ebay sniffer to a buddy and told him I did not know if it worked since I had to wash the battery leak stuff out of it... he checked the car , no leaks,.... but when I asked him if he tested it he said ' no'.... I just tested it yesterday by spraying r22 into it from the little can and it does not signal anything.... so just don't assume your sniffer works until it will respond... typically you open the cover of the schroeder valve and press pop it with the sensor next to it... but you will have to find a proper implement for that... or use the valve gauges as they come off the schroeder valve...

vstech · #**224** 10-26-2011, 12:43 PM

sniffer elements fail regularly, yours may have failed! contact the manufacturer for replacements!

leathermang · #**225** 10-26-2011, 01:16 PM

Thanks, but I don't think I have any recourse... it was $35 chance off Ebay.... the red light does work....and since it is battery powered I am going to use my ' new' $35 CL oscilloscope to play with its insides....