I've got a later W126 (1991) and am redoing the rubber on it. I've got most of it apart, but am having trouble finding a tool to remove and replace the rear subframe bushings. Mercedes calls out tool 126 589 01 33 00 and I am having a hard time finding an aftermarket tool.

Also, I have a question on the trailing arm bushings. The outer bolt is hard to get to. My understanding is that I may have to remove the from of the subframe (where the bushings are) to access this bolt. Any other way?

If I remove the front of the subframe and put the trailing arm bushings in, then I am supposed to make sure the axles are straight before I tighten them.

Well, to make sure the axles are straight, that means to me that I have to have the subframe and axles bak in position to make everything line up. Once the subframe is back in place, I have the same bolt access issue - I can't get to that bolt - so how then so I tighten it while keeping the axles straight?

Probably overthinking this, but I just want to have all my ducks lined up.

If this is the one someone may be able to give advice on how to make one.

http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/content/tool.jsp?toolno=126 589 01 33 00

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I did not read through all of this:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=288805

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks - I found one that someone made and I've got a request in to rent it from him. Hopefully, that will come out ok.

Still not sure how to align the axles and tighten the trailing arm bushings though.

No one seems to address it directly and the MB manual just says to align the axles and tighten. But you can't get to that outside bolt when everything is in place.

W123 wagon rear trailing arm bushings R&R
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=266324





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Phil - Best I can figure from that thread is that he might have tightened them up outside the car as an assembly ans then installed the assembly. Mine is all apart, but I guess I can build it outside of the car.

I was hoping not to remove the rear subframe entirely. I'll have to undo the parking brake if I want to do that.

I needed to drop the subframe to get to that bolt, there's no space to slide it out otherwise. Luckily, you don't need to remove the subframe completely though, you can do it one side at a time since the subframe is attached to the frame in three places.


Yeah, you're supposed to torque the bolts with the trailing arms in a neutral position. This neutral position will be a little different for different cars, depending on the condition of the springs and what spring shims you have in there. If I had to do it, i'd use a jack to position the trailing arm in approximately that position when the frame is dropped and the rear of the car is off the ground, then torque the bolts. If I were you i'd look under the car to see what angle the trailing arm makes with respect to the subframe when it's on the ground before you even start the job, then get it as close to that as you can with the jack when you're torquing the bolts. Good luck!

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1984 300SD, 375XXX miles, Light Ivory w/ Palomino TEX

Well, I really wanted to figure this out since the Mercedes manual says that you have everything together when you tighten the trailing arm bushings.

It is possible to loosen the trailing arm bushings with the rear subframe in place. I had the springs and shocks out. It may be possible to do it with them in, but it would definitely be harder.

I used a deep offset 15/16" wrench (about the same size as a 24mm) to hold the very outside bolts. With that in place you can get a long flex head 1/2" ratchet with a 6 point socket (the nuts are shallow and the 12 point sockets don't seem to stay on as well) for the nut on the inside of that bushing. It does come off.

So that means that with a flex head torque wrench you could torque them in place.