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#16
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Well I just put a deposit down on a solid chassis, (no rust), but the fender and both doors on the left side are damaged, easy fix.
I want to start to line up the parts I will need to convert to a manual trans. I am looking for a manual petal set for a 201 or 124 chassis. I am not sure that I will be able to use the current manifolds on the engine and am considering trying to cut and well a 300DT exhaust manifold and possibly modify an intake as well. If anyone has any leads on pedals or turbo manifolds, and would be willing to share, please PM me. Thanks Dave |
#17
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Dang, wish you had put in your order last week. I pulled a 5-spd and shifter from a 190E when I was in Portland, Or. Didn`t pull the peddle assy as I had no need for it since I don`t have a 124 or 201. now Iam 800 miles from it.
I just mailed the shifter today to a forum member. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#18
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I’m back on line again.
The 616 and 4-speed are in the 201 chassis. Nice fit considering. At first I thought I was going to have to notch the cross member, but after some positioning it is ok. I have to modify the reverse shift lever on the trans because it is just touching the tunnel, and I chopped up the stock oil filter housing so it would fit instead of making a new one. I like the thermostat feature and although the finished product is a total compromise, I am pleased with the result. The oil filter casting is was very porous and welded like crap, but after several leek checks with air, all is good, just not real pretty. I also cut down and welded the turbo exhaust manifold to fit the 616. I was surprised how nice the manifold material is, it welded very nicely. Now we will see how it lasts. I also cut up a 617 turbo intake and built a resonance chamber that the w/a intercooler will be welded to, but separated from the chamber except for a centrally located port. This will help keep the sonic pressures in the engine side where they can help feed the next intake cycle. I am finishing up the adaptor for the GT2056V turbo to T-3 manifold. Need to order an oil pan (mine is rusted), extend the drive shaft, flush the fuel system with diesel, address the shifter rods, mount the oil cooler, and then start it up and see what I have. I am going to hold off on the 6-speed until this winter as I need to get this road worthy asap. I discovered that I have a posi diff which is a bonus. The car sets a little high with the 616 4-speed in it. The springs are a common dia so I have lots of aftermarket options. I need to replace all the suspension bushings so I will address the springs then. |
#19
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Paul, here are some quick picks of the 616 in the 201 chassis. The intercooler has not come yet and will be attached to the plenum, extending over the turbo. I will have to relocate the vane actuator to come up from the bottom instead of the top so the intercooler will fit above the turbo.
I will be able to run the mechanical fan with clutch which is a big plus for me. The oil filter took some work, and is a total compromise, but I am pleased with the result. I was able to fit the fire wall panel back in place and the filter clears nicely. I punched a hole for the heater hose and that was that. I started cleaning up the wiring as well. Removing the plastic sleeves was like cracking crab legs. The housings were full of oil and or water, what a mess. I was pleased to find that the large 123 battery will fit in the 201. I kept the 201 starter to see if by some chance it might fit on the 616, (the solenoid would be on the bottom, but so what), I like the permanent magnet starters as they develop a lot of power from the reduction gears and do not draw as much current as the old starters do. I still have to extend the drive shaft, and mod the reverse shift fork on the trans, deal with the shift rods etc. I have not looked yet, but I am planning on making the 123 petals work in the 201. Once all that is done, I'll flush the fuel system and start it, I am curious about vibrations. Then I will make the cutter for the pistons and install the mod-uprated Prechambers, and install the uprated cam a little advanced. The 10mm pump and moded injectors will be the last thing on the list I think. I want to get everything working in harmony before I start putting the fuel to it. I was really surprised at how well the 617 turbo ran with the moded 10mm elements so I am really interested to see how the 616 turbo will respond to a 10mm pump. I have another liberty turbo if you wanted to go that way. I think it would be a better choice than the T3, but I'll know for sure once I start mine. I think I will be very happy with this package. As I said, I am planning on making a shakedown run your way once it is road worthy. I plan on stopping at your place first actually as I will be able to inspect and deal with any issues that I noticed on the way. Plus you will be able to see first hand, and decide if this is the way you want to go. I will take more pictures once the intake is finished. |
#20
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Oil filter will be a bit messy when it is time to change it, but looks good otherwise.
One question on the intake. The plenum really helps the 616 na, but I was under the impression with the turbo it may not help? You seem to be one step ahead of me, and clearly know what you are doing. So just wondering. I guess the same principals still apply weather under pressure or not. I did bump the ip timing up on mine, that helped with smoke a little, and lowered my max egt's a little. 1350 or so with it floored now.
__________________
1977 240D turbo |
#21
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Quote:
Quote:
Why waste the energy from the intake pluses? When in non or low boost conditions, the chamber will perform more efficiently than just a tube, resulting in a better intake charge with lower boost. All the other intakes I have seen posted, have the intercooler open to the intake ports instead of being isolated from them except for a port in a specific location to keep as much sonic energy in the plenum. In this case the Intercooler will tend to defuse the energy, (like a muffler), and the resulting shape of the plenum will not be conducive to a tuned resonance. Quote:
I noticed a boost in low end power every time I advanced the IP. Each engine is different and no speck will result in the best performance throughout the life of any engine. Try a tough more. At some point the engine will become hard to start, or when started will rattle more when cold, or I have experienced at the higher elevations that an advanced setting that worked well at a lower elevation will result in higher EGTs at high speed, and a reluctance to rev. You have to play with it, keeping track of each adjustment and the results, to find the best setting compromise. I am glad to hear that you are happy with your efforts thus far. On a side note: I want to get a feel for the turbo prior to swapping PCs. It won't take long, just want to get some highway EGT readings to compare to the NA readings. Then I'll swap out the PCs and will contact you regarding our arrangement. The manifolds have worked out well. thanks |
#22
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I've gotten a couple of PMs inquiring about any progress.
I finally received the correct cooler and finished the intake. I still have to machine the gasket surfaces to make them flat again after all the welding. I took a couple pics of the intake during the last test fitting. I was able to modify the stock 201 auto pedal assembly to accept the clutch pedal and master from a 115 pedal set I had, and have the clutch functional. The shift rods took some time as I was crawling under the car for every bend, but they are done. I had to drill two new shifter mounting bolt holes to make the 123 shifter work in the 201 chassis. I have the front driveshaft out and need to extend it 5 inches yet. Still need to drop the oil pan and add a turbo oil drain fitting and run a supply line from the filter to the turbo. The viton cored fuel hose came in so I can get the fuel system done. Also installed the EGT, Boost, Fuel Pressure gauges. Not sure where I am going to put the Vacuum, EMP, and intercooler water temp gauges yet. Oh, also made the throttle cable bracket, but still need to make a petal limiter as the petal will move farther than the throttle. I have been puttering around with the wiring as a filler. It has been so hot I have not been motivated to do anything. Its close. |
#23
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I thought I would put up some more pics.
I had to relocate the VNT actuator because if would not fit with the intake. I also modified a PMGR starter from a 560sel to fit the 616 because I could not get the stock starter past the steering linkage. The smaller starter clears with room to spare and spins the engine over just fine. |
#24
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Got it running and drove it around for about 20 miles. LOVE THE TURBO!! The gt2056v is perfect for the 616. I have it at a fixed position and it builds boost quickly, smoothly, and in proportion to fueling. It cruses at about 3 to 5 psi (at current setting) and builds with the throttle up to 15-20psi. (the IP is turned up for N/A operation so I will have to give it more to take full advantage of the boost).
No vibrations to speak of, but we will see as the mounts take a set. Once I get some details taken care of, I have to replace the cam, mod the PCs, and retune the IP for the turbo. |
#25
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Glad to here it is running. That is going to be a nice set up once dialed in.
__________________
1977 240D turbo |
#26
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Great! Always fun taking the project out for the first drive.
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-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
#27
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Put about 100 miles on it driving around town and some "country" driving, and I really like the car. The turbo is a nice addition to the 616, I've been tweaking the vain adjustment and am getting a feel for what to expect when I tweak the governor some more.
I have to replace all the suspension bushings, but I can tell that the car will handle nicely when it is all tuned in. Still taking care of the details, mounting the intercooler radiator, and making a oil separator is next I think. Note: I removed the Bomb from the Air Bag. |
#28
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I have put just over 3K miles on it and really like the car.
I finally got around to modding the Prechambers and installing a late model cam, now it is really peppy. Also made an oil separator, still need to mount the intercooler radiator and hook it up. The front springs are too soft though, I took a quick measurement of the OD of the spring and compared it to the 240D front springs, and as far as I can tell they are the same, so, I am considering pulling the 240D springs and cutting them down to fit in the 201. I have not seen any spring rates for the 201, but the spring is much shorter than the 123 spring, and the 201 should be a little lighter in the front, so I am hoping that after cutting the 123 spring down it will be as stiff as I want, not sure if I want to go through the trouble of making adjustable spring seats, but I really want to pull the front end apart once when I rebuild it, so having the ride height adjustable would be better. I saw a thread from a member who was going to put a 617a in a 201, I am really curious if he made any progress? |
#29
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On your intercooler, is this getting fluid from the radiator, or as I think a separate radiator for it?
And what is the extra 2" or so fitting that looks to be on the air side for? Just thinking, about intercoolers, or water injection. Bumped my timing a little more, figure it is time now that I have a few miles on the engine. Spent a few days doing body work, now just have one quarter panel to replace, and everything below the rub rail/ door molding will be done. Doing it in a slightly yellower yellow, was maple yellow.
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1977 240D turbo |
#30
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Quote:
Quote:
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I am curious to see if mine makes any difference. Right now it is a giant heat sink and it is heating the air, so getting rid of some of that heat should do something. You do not have as much of an intake to heat soke. Don't be afraid to play with the timing, advance it until either it is crackling when it is wormed up or is difficult to start. Your EGTs will drop and your torque will go up. |
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