Removing exhaust manifold for freeze plug leak 85SD
 

I have searched and have not been able to find an answer.

I have a freeze plug leaking on the passenger side, I think the front plug. I don't think I can get to it without removing the exhaust manifold. Plus I want to replace them all on that side.
I know I will need a gasket between the head and the manifold, but what other gaskets do I need and do I remove it with the turbo attached?
Are there any parts websites with exploded parts diagrams?
I plan to take pics and will add to an existing freeze plug thread if applicable.

Wonder what kind of car you are talking about?

Sorry - I'm an idiot
 

thanks...
It's a 1985 300SD 126. I should have put that in the first post.

My goal is to obtain most of the parts I need so the downtime is not so long waiting for something I had no clue that I needed.

well, his other 4 posts all discuss an 85SD, so I'm going with that.

OP, it's best to put in the title of any thread or question you have, the year and model of the car you are asking about!

Manifold gasket and o-rings and seals for turbo oil return is all that I can remember right now. I vaguely remember being able to pull the manifolds with the turbo charger attached. The pia attachment is the bracket that is bolted to the bottom of the turbo and then to the block. It is kinda heavy and awkward to lift out of there so try to have someone that can help you with it.

When you are through with this exercise...there is no reason for those to leak ever again.
Put in Brass plugs..
clean the surface on the block that they are in contact with very well...
and put a good Aviation Gasket Cement on both the block and the edge of the plug...
then use some kind of jig which will allow you to knock them in straight AND which will seat them at the proper depth... but not more.... and no do overs.... if you get it in cross threaded so to speak... take it back out clean it and reinstall straight in....
Can't rust... insulated by the cement... should never have to worry about them again.

A Jig is nice but I have never seen one in use anywhere I have worked; even the pros use a Socket to drive Core/Freeze plugs in.
They do make generic tools to drive in Core/Freeze Plugs that have a hinging Handel on the. However, they are mostly used for gettin around obstructions to drive the Plug in (I have never useed one so I do not know how well they work).

I like the Old syle Brown Permatex either hardening or none hardening for Freeze Plugs.

Get as much active, flaky rust out of the plug holes as you can. You can use 180 or 120 grit emery paper on the Hole IDs.

Pic of one of the generic tools. Mostly made for use installing the Plugs with the Engine in the Vehicle.

Is there a gasket between the downpipe that the turbo is bolted to. thanks for the info on the oil return - didn't think about that.

Yeah, I was a little hasty and forgot the basics

Where's the best place to get these? I havent heard of them before but it sounds like a good idea.

Once you have cleaned and lubed ( with the Gasket Cement ) it should not take much pressure... a piece of hardwood will work fine... I think they are made so that the outer lip of the plug is supposed to be even with the outside of the block... so you can still use a socket to start it straight ... but then use something flat to just flush it with the block.

This url shows the type of tool... not sophisticated...
but the nub in the middle..if you were making your own.. should be almost as wide as the ' bottom ' of the plug...so as to keep it straight going in....

http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_0811_freeze_plugs/installation.html

http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/page57.html

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xk-lovers/library/freeze_plugs.html

That third one is interesting ... talks about an XK 120... I had an XK140 pretty much the same deal.... it had a freeze plug at the back of the head maybe 3/4 inch from the firewall ...and mine was leaking... instead of sealing it up with Jbweld and just be sure I was cold temperature protected.. I took the engine out to get to it..... that was a cast iron 6 cylinder with double overhead cams... never got it back into the car.... this was during college....had few tools, girlfriend, etc....

Turbo Drain Parts. I am including th "A" in the part number but it often is not used.

A6171870185 The rubber Grommet

A0049975348 O-rings; you need 2 of these

A6031870580 Turbo Bearing Housing to Drain Gasket (Speed Shops may also have this gasket)

A4421870180 Turbo Bearing Housing to Oil Supply Tubing (speed Shops may have this gasket) I included it if your remove the Oil Supply Line.

I looked around and the FEBI 34mm Expansion/Core/Freeze Plug from the pics I have see seems to be only plated a Brass color.

None of the places like the Dorman site I looked at had a Brass Plug/s listed by application for Mercedes.

The parts places list 34mm Expansion Plugs
34mm= 1.3386" (rounded to 1.34")

Dorman list a Plug by dimensions that is close (maybe too close, see pic) but the only way to know for sure is to get one and see if the sold end will enter the Hole on the Block some with out forcing it.

What has to come off here?
 

To remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, what needs to be removed besides the downpipe to the rear exhaust. I'll assume 1, 2, 4 need to be disconnected, but what about #3? Does #5 just pull apart?

the exhaust downpipe was split just at the end of the flexible part.

3 will need to be disconnected, 5 will separate.

I would recommend removing #1 also, as you don`t want to bend the oil supply pipe to the turbo. 2 13mm at the turbo and at the back of the head is a bolt/bracket. and I believe 2 13mm at the other end at the oil filter.

Charlie