Drivers window down wont go up
 

i have an issue with the drivers window, I put it down this morning and now it wont go back up. Is it possible the switch went bad with no warning? I checked the other windows and they all go up and down. Already checked the fuses. On the bright note it is a sunny day so I have a little bit of time tonight to work on it.


Can I jump the switch if so how do I remove the panel to get at the switch?
Any help will be appreciated!!

Take ashtray insert out, remove 2 phillips head screws inside. Pull guts out then remove the change cup. Carefully slide the wood console piece forward, then pull up.

Swap connections with a know good switch to validate. Best guess you have a window lift motor going south.

Broken wires at the door/frame interface are also common. You might try raising the window with the door in different positions.

if moving the door around does not work, when you have the wood trim off, you can swap the switches around from left to right, etc. they just pull right out each switch.

open the door and "poke" the black rubber part where the wires are, all while holding the window button "up".

Works every time for one of my windows.

Cleaning the Window Switch Contacts often cures the issue you are having.

When my Front Passenger window stopped moving and I had removed the Door Panel I found that the Screws where the Motor Wires attached to the Terminal Block were both loose. After tightened the Window Functioned.

In order to bypass the Window Switchs and get the Motor to run you need to apply Posative Voltage to one Wire and Negative to the other wire. The moves the Window in one direction.
Swapping the polarity makes the Window go the opposite direction.
The Window Motors do not grounded to the Chassie like a Starter Motor is.

If it is a Rear Window and you hear a chattering sound the Window Regulators most likely bent.

If you can pull on the window glass and it slides freely, it means your sliding jaw/glider has disintegrated.
Good luck

These motors can develop dead spots, actually spots where the resistance has increased within the motor. Combine that with dirty contacts on the switch, window guides that need cleaning & lubricating and misalignment from sagging/distortion/etc of the window assembly.

Addressing all of these issues is the best solution.

In the short-term trying the passenger seat switch, attempting to get motor movement in either direction and, if you can, grabbing the window with your hand (may need a helper) while engaging the switch may work.

Going into the door and doing a more thorough job is not hard.

Tx76513-I have a new lift motor already in the door. Dealer did that. Thanks for the info on how to pull console out.

TangoFox,Vstech- Will try that when i get home.

Deisel911-ashedd- The first thing I will do is change a switch. I seems to be the quickest and easiest to check.

Will report back this evening. Hopefully with good news.

The results of troubleshooting.
Soaked switch with contact cleaner- nothing
pulled console out switched LR-LF result was front switch with rear wiring on it worked rear window.
Rear switch with Front wiring on it nothing.

Held the up switch down wiggled wires going to and from door, opened and closed door, Nothing.

At this point I have to say the regulator(Lift motor) is shot.
If I missed anything please let me know.

I would not jump to that conclusion on the basis of the information provided.

Why not Tangofox?
Did I miss something? I have ruled.out the switch,the fuse is good, the only thing left as far as I can tell is to supply 12v to the wiring at the switch then to the motor,
If it works with power supplied directly it would be the wiring from the switch to the motor. But I can't believe the wiring fails with no warning. I have seen old wiring fail but never without a warning of sometype.
I am an electrician by trade is how I arrived at those conclusions.

If I mikssed something please tell me rather than post a negative comment without backing it up.

wiring certainly can fail without any warning of any kind. IF you had voltage detection on the motor, likely you'd have seen dips in voltage as you were using the window or spikes in ampdraw, or slowdown of the motor from bad and failing damaged wire...
no monitoring of the motor is in place though.
it just stops working one day... it's a fatigue failure.
household wiring is pretty stable in comparison. it usually fails from heat/connections, or straining motors...

Sometimes I just "arrive" at conclusions. (And sometimes I conduct continuity checks prior to arrival. You should give that a shot.)

Just curious, what type of warning does a wire issue right before it breaks from one flex too many?

Looks like you gotta pull the door panel off and apply 12vdc to the motor.

Goodluck... certainly sucks when a window fails.