1987 300TD Buyers Guide? What to look for prior to purchase.
 

Hello,

I came across a high mileage 330k but very well maintained 300td. It has been garage kept. A/c needs a charge. Paint is in great shape, no body damage or rust. The interior is very clean as well. Transmission shifts great and the engine runs well as far as I can tell. Owner said he had a compression test done at 300k and the engine was within spec. Tires are in good shape. Didnt notice any oil spots on the drive way.

If I get closer to purchase I will have an inspection done.

Wondering if you guys could tell me the problem areas of these cars? Also, what is a fair price for something like this.

The car does not look like a 330k car, its cleaner than most car with half the mileage.

Thanks in advance!

I know these are rare. This is one is a blueish green color with a light beige interior.

ac needs a charge is automatically 1k less and a complete turn off, compression within specs is vague

What problem areas do these cars have in general?

The number 1 thing is rust - if there is any rust on these cars it tends to spread because of the way MB undercoated everything. You cant see it until its too late. So - around the jack points - the holes in the rocker panel under the doors - check real good - if those are solid you have a solid car.

Most of the accessories are run on vacuum not electricity. For example - when you lock the drivers door - all three remaining door locks should slowly go down. When you unlock they should slowly go up. If they dont - it is a Serious pain in the A$$ to work on. If your not capable of doing the work yourself it gets expensive.

Other than that - check out the transmission shifts OK - 330k miles really isn't out of line for one of these cars - a well cared for engine can go 3x that without much work at all.

the door locks on the 124, like the 126 are not controlled by vacuum. they are controlled electrically at the front door locks, and the trunk/hatch lock. those positions, turn on a pump under the rear seat on the 124, and under the trunk carpet in the 126. still, not the same as american cars with the solenoid locks. and troubleshooting is difficult on them due to the pressure/vacuum tubing that locks them.

Whats the price on a clean one with all these miles?

I"ve seen everywhere from 500 to 15K...
depends on the seller, and the value they place on the car.
I paid 2500 for my totally clean, 168K fully documented with full service history TD...
the deals are out there.
keep in mind the cars are getting harder and harder to find, and they only made a few thousand. and RUST is killing many many of them.
figure 4-6K and have an additional 2K for repairs ready to go in one, and you'll be pretty far ahead of the game.

330K on the original head would scare me though. I'd figure it's going to need a full chain assembly. all the guides, etc. new water pump, new fan clutch, new radiator, new injector nozzles. new vacuum pump, new belt assembly with shock and spring. ALL new subframe connectors, bushings etc. figure needing 3K right up front IF the head is OK. not to mention the time to install all these things. IF this stuff is already done, you're ahead of the game, but get documentation.

I understand preventative maintenance - but that is a lot of work to be done on a car that is running fine.

I would agree some of this may be needed - timing chain especially, but if the rest is OK - well - if it aint broke...

How many miles could you expect the car to go with 330k on it? Oh, the turbo was replaced at 300k by Mercedes.

How do you tell if its a #14 head? Where do you look?

Thanks!

x2 on checking for rust!!

There is a casting number between the #2 and #3 injector, 603.xxx.YY.zz where YY is the casting number.

THanks!

Whats the value of the car above?

Thanks!

Large range. First though, you realize that 300TD is a wagon, right?

If the body is straight, paint is glossy with no clearcoat issues, no rust under or in, no significant dents, interior is straight with no cracks or holes in the 'tex, no stains in the carpet, no cracks in the dash, everything works well (windows, locks, seats, Climate Control & vacuum pods, sunroof, radio, wipers and washers front & rear, hatch pull-down, etc., etc.), the engine starts and runs well with an original (#14) head with no cracks/leaks, SLS works properly, cruise control works, suspension is tight with good shocks/struts and all rubber/links in good condition, no steering play, good tires, good brakes with no pulsing nor pulling, all warning lights come on properly with the key and extinguish properly after starting, ... then it's in good shape and should IMO bring $4500.
None of this "in good shape for its miles / age" bullcrap, I mean in good shape.

Subtract ~ 1,000 for no A/C
Add ~ 700 for a head higher than 14 if a proper turbo head
Subtract for anything not mentioned above
Subtract for no 3rd seat
add ?? for leather (if the seat ribs run all of the way up/down and from the front to the rear of the cushions, MB-Tex and not leather)
Add for heated seats
Add for orthopedic seats
Add for cargo cover / pet-net

The only options in '87 were: leather, orthopedic seats, leather seats, rear-facing 3rd seat, pet-net/cargo cover, everything else was standard.

So if as described above, shows like a nice used car that needs no reconditioning except for the A/C, even with the 330k miles I'd expect it to be worth the $3500.

They're never as described above.

Also consider that 330,000 miles is a difficult car to sell, makes it easier to buy right as there really won't be anyone else offering. In addition, if you drive the car for a couple of years, its mileage will exceed 350,000 and so-on, making it even tougher to sell.

They are extremely nice cars to own and drive when everything works, and very reliable if maintained properly (or someone has been foolish enough to spend the rediculous amount of time and money to bring it back to proper condition.

In a Mercedes the cars were usually treated and maintained extremely well for as long as it was in the posession of the first owner. Unfortunately, the subsequent owners don't always have the same budget and the cars are sometimes less babied and fall into disrepair. Repair and maintenance records are very important, if they aren't available then you must look extremely closely and know what signs indicate meticulous maintenance, and what indicate neglect. Once a Mercedes is in trouble, it's often a bad investment to attempt to bring it back to good health, you have to do it for fun without counting your receipts.