This is why , each night when I get home from work I read most of the posts. Thank you and a job well done Salute !!!

Is there a specific diameter of the needle jet. I saw on a vw site that they had 155 bar, .205 diameter holes from a mercedes and were using them on wvo vw's

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85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

By some bizarro accident when trying to get the Mercedes FSM for the manual transmission I got a PDF of the original Bosch training filmstrip for injector cleaning. IF anybody needs it PM me.

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1978 Mercedes 240D
1981 Mercedes 240D
1982 Mercedes 240D

I can't give any specific size but I used to use VW Rabbit Nozzles in my Volvo Diesel. The Hole/Orifice in the Nozzle that the Pintle goes through is much smaller than the Mercedes Nozzle.

I think if I had a Turbocharged Volvo Diesel the Nozzle Pintles might be thicker and the Hole/Orifice larger. So they could more easily withstand the extra heat when the Turbo is Boosting.

The way older non-turbo Mercedes Nozzles also had smaller diameter Pintels and Holes in them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Im using vw rabbit nozzles (bosch india) in my om603 right now. Works very well. These are non throttling type.

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CENSORED due to not family friendly words

The Bosio Nozzles are similar. In fact most of the Nozzles you used to find on IDI Engines have a simple Pintle end like the VW Nozzles.

However, the diameter of the Hole and the OD of the Pintles differ.

At one time Mercedes Nozzles used to have a cone shaped pintle end with the base of the Cone on the Combustion chamber side. That and the drilled Hole in the Pintle and the Facet on the side of the Pintel are attempts to quite the idle Fuel Knock.

I had been using the Bosch VW Nozzles (made in Brazil bought back in the early 1990s at that time they were $11 each from a local Fuel Injection Shop) in My Volvo Diesel as it is sort of a VW Rabbit Engine with 2 more Cylinders.
Not in Brazil the make VW Rabbits. The Pistons I used when I rebuilt the Volvo Diesel Short Block were from Brazil.

I replaced them with Monark Nozzles for Mercedes and there is no subjective difference.

I think the Ball Pin inside of the Precombustion Chambers on Mercedes has to be a big help with combustion once it gets really hot. Especially when your Injector Nozzles are nearing the end of their usefulness.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That's a great write up - thanks.

btw, how do you get the aluminium parts so clean, any tips?



Cheers

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

If that question is for Me I beyond Degreasing with Engine Cleaner I don't care about that.

I have read if you leave some of the cleaners even suff like Purple Power that had Acide in it it can make stains worse and even more perment.

There are people who have removed the valve cover and polised it. Other have done the same and Powder Coated it.

And, likely there are other things that have been done.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I don't know.
The later Models of Mercedes Nozzles have a flat spot (Mercedes calls it a Facet) on the side of the Injector Pintle that takes the place of the drilled passages. See the Pic.
I am not sure but I think the DNO SD 261 Nozzles also have the Facet.

But, the Monaks have the same Facet on them.

The VW Rabbit type Nozzles I used in My 82 Vovl Diesel are constructed like the Basios. Just the Pintle and a hole in the Nozzle Body.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Cheers Diesel911, the picture was from the OP (Jeremy5848 ) which prompted the question but open to anyone really.

There's a layer of lacquer over the valve cover which has half peeled off looking very untidy, this needs to be removed before I can tackle the whole cover.

I have also invested in a large ultrasonic cleaner as part of the injector overhaul. A few smallish parts will probably make their way into this with some orange cleaner.

I'f the results are better than expected will post a few pics.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

There used to be Clear Engine Paint. I have never used that so I cannot comment on it.

The 2 parts of the Injector Nozzle are a mated assembly. Do not mix the parts between the other Nozzles.

Caution if you put the assembled Nozzle in an Ultrasonic Tank the Pintle has a good chance of vibrating out of the Nozzle Body.
That means if you clean several Nozzles at one time it is possible for you to look in later and find you don't know which Pintel goes to which Nozzle Body.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks fro the pointers.

Just in the process of ordering new nozzles which in itself is a bit tricky.

Lots available but quality unsure, the following are under consideration

# Flag, made in Germany with good after sales support Direct replacement for DN 0 SD 310

# Bosch, made in India with good after sales support Direct replacement for DN 0 SD 310

# German unbranded, with good after sales support Direct replacement for DN 0 SD 310

I'll keep you posted how it works out.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

No one has ever tried the Flag Nozzles.

Flag like Febi is a German Company but are the Nozzles actually made in Germay?

Febi has become natorious for having Boxes that say Febi Germany on them but there is another sticker on the Box or the part saying the Part was made someplace else.

You are in the UK so you are right next to the source of many many companies that make Diesel Injector Nozzles.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The guy selling the Flag nozzles is very reputable, he also supplied a link to their German catalogue edit: added link http://www.konpart.de/products/92-flag-germany-products.html

These are the ones you have to watch 281345607424 (ebay number) as made in Brazil.

I'll probably go with the Indian made Bosch units as these guys are very helpful (supplied custom pop tester)

They are also the only ones who will supply shims -everyone else wants you to send the injectors to them.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

There are many ways to clean aluminum--everyone seems to have a [different] favorite. Degreasing comes first, as others have written. I found biodiesel to be a great solvent for oil and grease, followed by a thorough soak and scrubbing in very hot soapy water, hot water rinse, and dry in the sun.

After degreasing, I found that a hand-held fine wire brush or fine steel wool, and Mother's mag wheel and aluminum polish works well on rough surfaces such as the intake manifold. For smoother surfaces like the valve cover, use something softer, a rag or perhaps a green scrubbie, to avoid scratching. If the rag turns black, it means oxidized aluminum is being removed, which is what you want. The improved appearance should last several years. There are special paints that can be applied--I had a local firm quite me--but are quite expensive for anything other than a show car.

Again, there are many cleaning methods that have worked for others. This is jut what I've found works for me. If you do a little cleaning whenever you do routine maintenance or a project, you'll eventually have the entire engine compartment shiny.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970