OM617, Good years for swap motor? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

hpmguy · #1 05-27-2011, 11:48 AM

Hello All,

New to the forum, and to diesels. I am researching the best year OM617 for a swap into a Toyota land cruiser, and here is what I have found so far:

This engine was offered (in the US) in the 300SD models from '79 to '85, and the model number for these engines ranged from the OM617.950 - .952.

It seems that the .951/.952 engines are almost identical, but the .950 (offered in '79 only?) has 10 less HP.

What is the difference in the .950 and the .951/.952?

Are parts equally available for all models?

I have read that the '79 is the only model imported without EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculator?), is this an advantage or disadvantage?

I was originally looking for a late model ('84/'85) but am having a hard time finding a suitable donor with reasonable miles on it. I have located a '79 with low miles close to me, but don't want to buy something that is inferior to the later models, or will have a problem with parts supply etc.

Recomendations please???

I appreciate your input, and thanks for your time!

-Guy

ngarover · #2 05-27-2011, 11:53 AM

Being a newbie myself who got into these cars for the same reason you are, but for transplant into a 96 rover, I can tell you the main difference.

82 up the engine was reenforced and turbo was added. 81 and older are naturally aspirated. You will want to go with an 82 or newer and have the turbo... Especially in a heavy 4x4....

On parts... Cheap and everywhere. Replacement engines, cheap and everywhere. Great platform, super easy to work on. No computers etc... Has become my single most favorite engine I have ever played with.

vstech · #3 05-27-2011, 11:58 AM

welcome GUY!
the biggest differences are in the cam, and the oil pressure fitting.
85 should be the BEST year to get a motor from, but if you find an 82 with low/no chain stretch and low miles, it's MUCH better than a worn slap out 85!

post your location in the USERCP section so local members can assist you.

there are several land cruiser conversions on here, use the upper search link, and choose google search and get ready for some READING!

whunter · #4 05-27-2011, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hpmguy

Hello All,

New to the forum, and to diesels. I am researching the best year OM617 for a swap into a Toyota land cruiser, and here is what I have found so far:

This engine was offered (in the US) in the 300SD models from '79 to '85, and the model number for these engines ranged from the OM617.950 - .952.

It seems that the .951/.952 engines are almost identical, but the .950 (offered in '79 only?) has 10 less HP.

What is the difference in the .950 and the .951/.952?

Are parts equally available for all models?

I have read that the '79 is the only model imported without EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculator?), is this an advantage or disadvantage?

I was originally looking for a late model ('84/'85) but am having a hard time finding a suitable donor with reasonable miles on it. I have located a '79 with low miles close to me, but don't want to buy something that is inferior to the later models, or will have a problem with parts supply etc.

Recomendations please???

I appreciate your input, and thanks for your time!

-Guy

What state are you in?

.

junqueyardjim · #5 05-27-2011, 01:22 PM

If you are looking for a turbo diesel, I think they are all great engines, unless they are worn out. Turbo engines came out in 1978 in the SD or W126 Series, but didn't come out in the regular 300D or W123 until 1982. Try to find one in a car where you can get it started and check the compression. With a battery in the car, even without the keys, they are quite easy to start. If you can't check it out, you will never know if it is good or junk until you get it installed. If you can do a compression check, you are way ahead of the game. Don't depend on speedometer mileage. Speedometers in Mercedes cars are known to be 100% un-reliable. They are easy to change out, the often stop working and they only read 5 digits, so just don't even look at it.

tbomachines · #6 05-27-2011, 01:29 PM

Narrowing your search for a 30 year old engine based on a couple specific (IMO unimportant) characteristics seems like splitting hairs to me. Any OM617 Turbo with good compression (you NEED to know the compression before dishing out cash, unless you get a super bargain) will suit your needs. Ideally an 85 would do, but I'd shoot anywhere from 82-85, there are a lot out there. You should have no problem finding a rusty car with a good engine, depending on location.

DeliveryValve · #7 05-27-2011, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

....
85 should be the BEST year to get a motor from, ...

It's not he best motor to do a swap for a manual trans. The pilot bearing hole is a non-standard size in which you'll need to grind down the OD of the stock bearing or install the next size down smaller OD bearing with a sleeve to take up the space. 1984 and earlier have the standard MB pilot bearing size.

Best engines are '81-'84 617.951/952.

.

hpmguy · #8 05-27-2011, 04:47 PM

I am in northern California.

The car I was looking at is a '79 300SD with 74k miles (the speedo comments above now make me wonder if this is legit.) The motor runs, but there is a problem with the trans so it doesn't drive. $300.

I have found another '82 300SD pulled motor with 171k with all the accessories for $400 (might take offer.)

Missed an '85 locally for $650, unknown mileage.

I think I will pass on both of these and look for a later model still running so I can drive it for a while to make sure all is good before going through all of the installation work.

I have the adapter all worked out, a shop called 4x4 labs makes the adapter kits.

So more questions:

How do you test compression on a diesel?(This shows my lack of diesel knowledge.) I have a compression tester, but don't know where to hook it up on a diesel.

What should the compression be on a OM617?

How do you measure the chain stretch? I have read that the chain needs to be changed before 200k.

Did all models have only a 5 digit odometer? Suprised to hear that.

What is the max mileage (assuming it is correct) that I should be looking for in a donor engine?

What price to engines normally sell for? Seems like the '82 mentioned above might be worth that price for just spare parts?

Thanks again,
Guy

junqueyardjim · #9 05-27-2011, 04:59 PM

To check the compression you need a tester. For a long time Harbor Frieght was selling the diesel compression test kit for about $35.00. I don't know what the price is now, but it is a good kit. Compression reading can be taken with that kit either through the glow plug holes or through the injector holes. I use the glow plug holes. Good compression on the 617 will run from 350 to 425 PSI. Higher is better, but a well balance compression reading is very necessary, will all cylinders reading within 10% of each other. Again, less then 10% is better. So you need the kit, best to have the engine just run, but if you have a problem getting it to run, with a battery, (and even with no key) it is easy to make them crank. Regarding the pilot bearing in the 85, the standard pilot bearing is a little large, but putting the bearing in the freezer overnight will shrink it to where it will slide right in, or at least it is easy to tap it in.

DeliveryValve · #10 05-27-2011, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junqueyardjim

,, Regarding the pilot bearing in the 85, the standard pilot bearing is a little large, but putting the bearing in the freezer overnight will shrink it to where it will slide right in, or at least it is easy to tap it in.

You serious? We are talking about a 1mm difference. I highly doubt it will tap right in and not cause any adverse effects on the bearing.

.

junqueyardjim · #11 05-27-2011, 07:29 PM

Well Delivery Valve I did it and it is not difficult and the dimension is not 1 mm. I forget now the exact dimension, though I did post it when I did it, but I think it is like 22 thousanths. It is really hard to install it without the cold shrinking first, but with the shrink just take a deep socket close to the hole size and tap it right in. It won't fall out.

whunter · #12 05-27-2011, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hpmguy

How do you measure the chain stretch? I have read that the chain needs to be changed before 200k.

Timing Chains Don't Last Forever
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=163604

Timing chain crimper how to
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=203367

Self-made tool: Timing Chain loader
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=219552

.

whunter · #13 05-27-2011, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hpmguy

How do you test compression on a diesel?(This shows my lack of diesel knowledge.) I have a compression tester, but don't know where to hook it up on a diesel.

What should the compression be on a OM617?

layback40 · #14 05-27-2011, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

What state are you in?

.

Roy,
I nearly fell out of my chair laughing at your post !!!
I got the impression that they guy was in a "state" of utter confusion !!

Then I realized you were referring to his location !! ~ Silly me !!

Welcome to the forum hpmguy !!!
As you will have seen. we are a happy helpful group.
Best you do plenty of reading before you start.
If you can get a complete car cheap enough it would be to your advantage. There will be many little things that you may need off the car to help with your transplant. A rust bucket with a good motor may be cheaper than a motor only.
The post 82 motors are the best. A federal is better than a Cali.
Dont worry about the EGR, it can be disabled easy enough.

Good Luck !!!!

whunter · #15 05-27-2011, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hpmguy

What is the max mileage (assuming it is correct) that I should be looking for in a donor engine?

225000 miles is a good average.

My daily drivers have:

* 1985 300SD Miles: 335,719
* 1985 300SD engine Miles: 275,000 body junked due to rust.
* 1982 300SD engine Miles: 250,372 body junked due to rust.
* 1983 300SD engine Miles: 185,127 body junked due to rust.
* 1982 300D engine Miles: 270,127 body junked due to rust.
* 1980 240D engine Miles: 183,786 body junked due to rust.

* 1984 190D 2.2L OM601.921 Miles: 403,868
* 1975 E350 7.3 turbo Miles: 274,569

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