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  #1  
Old 06-05-2011, 04:18 PM
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poor-man's compression test

Here is a good poor-man's compression test, based on cranking the engine without glowing the plugs.

Make sure:
* the engine is COLD = not run in 24 hours.
* The valves are adjusted correctly.
* Ambient temperature 50° Fahrenheit or higher.

#1. Disconnect the glow plug relay.
#2. If it fires up immediately (within 60 seconds) with zero glow then it's got decent compression.


Last edited by whunter; 06-05-2011 at 04:56 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-05-2011, 04:20 PM
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Injection timing plays a large role in the engines ability to start with no GP's. So this is not always a true indication of engine health if the injection timing is unknown.
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  #3  
Old 06-05-2011, 04:37 PM
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And temperature....at 20* the car should get an award for starting with no glow :-)
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  #4  
Old 06-05-2011, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300dOwner View Post
And temperature....at 20* the car should get an award for starting with no glow :-)
Or has a little pick me up in the fuel?
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:50 PM
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Not to mention the condition of the starter, and or battery.
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:02 PM
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Sounds like a good way to kill the battery!
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  #7  
Old 06-06-2011, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tbomachines View Post
Sounds like a good way to kill the battery!
x2

or

cook the starter motor.
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Old 06-06-2011, 03:21 PM
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Interesting thought: If you measured the amperage draw vs. time for the starter, it might be possible to distinguish a cylinder with lower compression than the rest due to the lower current drawn on its compression stroke. There'd be no way to convert this accurately into real numbers, but it ought to work as a relative indication of cylinder balance.

I know when I've had a spark plug removed on one cylinder of a gas engine (so 0 compression on that hole) and turned it over, the variation in cranking speed was pretty obvious.
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Old 06-06-2011, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbomachines View Post
Sounds like a good way to kill the battery!
Not if it starts instantly.
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Old 06-06-2011, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orv View Post
Interesting thought: If you measured the amperage draw vs. time for the starter, it might be possible to distinguish a cylinder with lower compression than the rest due to the lower current drawn on its compression stroke. There'd be no way to convert this accurately into real numbers, but it ought to work as a relative indication of cylinder balance.
This is actually a good way to measure relative compression. My friends 6.0 PowerStroke can actually do this over a scan tool! 1970s VWs had a diagnostic port you could hook up to his honkin shop computer and do the same test.

-J
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
This is actually a good way to measure relative compression. My friends 6.0 PowerStroke can actually do this over a scan tool! 1970s VWs had a diagnostic port you could hook up to his honkin shop computer and do the same test.

-J
Mercedes Sprinters can measure compression with a scan tool from what I've read. But 70's VW??? Can you name the model and years where such is possible? What about VW TDI's I have not heard they have this capability.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
70's VW??? Can you name the model and years where such is possible?
Here's a commercial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mU-zI2fKdY0

The cars just had a bunch of extra wires going back to a test plug under the hood. It was only available for a couple of years.

-J
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2011, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Mercedes Sprinters can measure compression with a scan tool from what I've read. But 70's VW??? Can you name the model and years where such is possible? What about VW TDI's I have not heard they have this capability.
Dang, I'd totally forgotten about that! Yup, my '75 Bus had that. It was offered on the early fuel-injected models -- the ones with Bosch D-Jetronic and L-Jetronic. Keep in mind these were fuel injection systems based on analog electronics; they had no self-diagnosis capability, so this was VW's attempt to make it easier for dealers to troubleshoot them quickly. The only other way was to test each component in logical order until you found the one that case causing the engine not to run.

There was a crank position sensor and a *lot* of extra wiring in the wiring harness, all terminating in a big plug. It must have cost them a lot to implement, and from what I hear it never worked all that well. A lot of current owners cut that stuff out to clean up the engine compartment wiring.

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