to restore or to part out? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Benzasaurus · #1 06-14-2011, 11:52 AM

I bought a 1981 240d with about 175k on it. The body is a disaster—it needs dents pulled out around the back, rear bumper is tilted, trunk lid is slightly misaligned, and it needs new floor pans, new quarter panels, new rocker panels, new hood, new trunk panels and probably a bit more because of rust. Plus paint (I would Maaco it and then do better in four years' time).

It runs—rough, but it runs (and is a manual). I took it to some very good MB mechanics. I trust them; they came very highly recommended, and I'm comfortable paying them to do some of the more hardcore work (IP work). They say it needs a valve adjustment, has an oil leak, and all lines and hoses need replacing. That is for starters. Deeper issues could be lurking! I also forgot to tell them that it has bouts of chugging hard in 2nd.

There is evidence the PO did not take good care of it (vacuum lines bolted in with screws). I think some of it I could do myself (hoses?) but I am new to this. The interior just needs a good scrub but has little to no wood trim in it, so less to part out.

I spent relatively little on the car and I knew it would be bad—it was just a question of how bad. I don't want to spend more than $3500 total on it this summer but want it driveable (on biodiesel). Since I'm new to restoration but I really want to learn, my thinking is I can either pour money in to restore it (and do some jobs myself to learn) or I can learn by taking the car apart. Thing is, it runs and I'm sad to part it out while it still has life. I've done some calculations, and I'm on the fence about it. If nothing deeper is going on mechanically, I think I could get it done in or around my budget. I guess I have two goals: learn and have a good working car.

What are people's thoughts?

vstech · #2 06-14-2011, 12:00 PM

... find another car.
wow.
I hope you paid less than 500 for the car.
I would not put one single cent into the repair of that car.
there are WAAAAAAY more better examples out there.
I have a decent 240 for sale with low miles, and zero rust I'd sell for WAAAAY less than 3500

vstech · #3 06-14-2011, 12:01 PM

heck, for $3500, I'd tune it up and deliver it to you!

Stretch · #4 06-14-2011, 12:05 PM

Welcome to the forum - it does sound like a money pit - there's a saying:

There's no such thing as a cheap Mercedes.

I have a gut feeling you'd go past your budget - but if you like tinkering with cars you'll probably learn a lot. So how much is knowledge worth to you?

vstech · #5 06-14-2011, 12:09 PM

that much rust is NEVER worth attempting repairs. unless the vehicle is worth millions.
this is a unibody with massive crumplezones built in. rust defeats all that. and metal repairs renders the crumple zones useless.
if you want a driver. get a better example.

Benzasaurus · #6 06-14-2011, 12:35 PM

Thanks for the welcome and the quick replies!

I only spent a little more than $500 on it. There were other cars on sale in the area but there was always something that made me hesitate. The cars looked too good for $1500 or $1900 and always had "a little rust, as expected for its age." I thought the owners must have been selling them cheap for a reason, with a cheap paint job to attract buyers. I saw one early on with catastrophic leaks the owner tried to palm off as "expected for its age." I've been scared by that phrase ever since. The crumple-zones issue is a big one though; I was thinking about that last night and it was pushing me towards parting it out.

As for the cost of knowledge... I guess this is just something I want to get into and have wanted to get into for years but was always distracted. I guess I'll part out the car and learn that way and then look for a rust-free 300 turbo. Any tips on how to go about removing/selling the engine? Thanks again for the advice!

vstech · #7 06-14-2011, 12:42 PM

well, the way the car is now is best for service.
I'd change the oil, change the glow plugs, and adjust the valves, then see how it runs. clean it up, and drive it the way it is for now.
the engine should not smoke at idle. if it does check the chain stretch. and have a shop check the IP timing. also have the injectors balanced.
that way when it's time to sell, you have a running motor in a car for best value.

charmalu · #8 06-14-2011, 12:47 PM

Welcome to the Forum, good to have you on board.

I agree with the above. You can dump in a ton of money, and still have a old rusty car. rust never sleeps. what you descripe and what I vision as I read, I scarry.

yes these are a unibody constructed vehicle. the body is the structrual part of it. rust can be a structrual compromise to your safety in an accident.

with the floor pan rust, check the strength of the pan under the seat. you do not want to drop onto the road while driving. I have seen pictures of the seats dropping through.

For the amount of work it needs, just get the engine to run well, and drive it as your winter beater, and find a well maintaind one. not sure if you can find one in the rust belt that is 25 to 30+ years old and solid.

Out here on the west coast, they are crushing W123`s that are perfect examples. you would give your left _______ (fill in answer) for one.

Charlie

Benzasaurus · #9 06-14-2011, 01:53 PM

Ok, well, I've got a lot to think about and do. If I can post some pics of the rust in the next few days, I will. Thanks for the good advice!

leathermang · #10 06-14-2011, 02:14 PM

Keep it as a parts car in case you find a pristine AUTO 240 and want to convert... pretty much a bolt over job.. since they were made to have either system installed.... brackets are there in Auto cars to bolt the clutch pedal to... etc...
Do as Vstech suggested first... that valve setting job will give you an idea about a lot of things...

Stretch · #11 06-14-2011, 02:20 PM

If you take the advice above and start with adjusting valves - get some bent spanners particularly if you are a novice mechanic.

Here's a recent thread (but if you do a search you'll probably find about 10000 more)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=298619

Codifex Maximus · #12 06-14-2011, 02:23 PM

Yep, restoration is OUT of the question. Rust is a killer. However, as the other guys said, you could fix it up a little and drive the heck out of it.

junqueyardjim · #13 06-14-2011, 07:44 PM

Learn to do most of this maintainence yourself. Great car to learn on. Directions are on the forum to show you how to bend two wrenches so you can easily adjust the valves. Watch your hoses, (and temperature gauge). Replace any hose that has a bulge where it shouldn't bulge. Learn quick to do your own brake work. It to is easier then you think. Instead of paying mechanics to do it, do it yourself, (and all the help you need is right here) and buy yourself the tools you need that will last a life time. If you can't see yourself do that, then I really think you bought the wrong car. These things are great to tinker with, but you need more then a pliers and screwdriver. When you are all done playing with this thing, pull the transmission, flywheel and clutch along with the pedals and bracket and it will bring more then you paid for the car. Don't spend a dime or do anything on the rust situation. Just make sure the floor is good where the front seats are. We don't want to loose you!

Stretch · #14 06-15-2011, 02:48 PM

Come on Benzasaurus pictures! Pictures!

Benzasaurus · #15 06-15-2011, 03:10 PM

Pictures are forthcoming! Someone significant and other has the camera with the photos on it.

So how do I check out how bad the rust is? Just gut the interior? At what point is it too far gone? I saw a patch at the base of the backseats by the door... very handsome and pebbly. Mmmmhmmm. Good. Like corn flakes of evil.

I would like to pretend I wasn't disheartened at all that rust repair replacement panels do not actually repair rust or replace panels, but uhh... I was. I guess I'll treat this as a practice car to learn to do all the fun stuff on.

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