Hello.

I've just swapped my 1980 300D's OM617 NA for a om617 turbo from a 1983 300TDT.

It's un-driveable because of this issue.

It stalls after being revved. And it doesn't need to be a "big rev", just a small rev will give the same problem. It happens when I let off the throttle (linkage or pedal), the rpms drop and it just stalls.

Here is a movie where it shows:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5oXee10s14

The idle doesn't bother me as much as the stalling. When I put it in R, D, S or L, the idle is really too high, but I'm not too bothered, as I want to be able to take my foot off the pedal without it stalling, as a top priority.


I have a thread about the same problem HERE. I also wanted to post it here, as I feel like there is more people using this forum than STD. More users = more possible solutions

If you have an EGR that could be sticking.
Did you ever get to see that the Turbo Engine ran OK before you did the swap?

Otherwise it sounds like Fuel Starvation or an Air Leak.
Change the Filters and hook up a longer hose to the Fuel Inlet of the Fuel Supply Pump and run the Hose into a Container of Clean Diesel. Bleed the System and see if it has the same symptoms.

You might try swapping the Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve from the N/A Engine.

Fuel Supply Pump leaky Hand Primer issue?

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the reply

It's a euro engine, so there is no EGR. But for some reason, it has a MW-pump.

Prior to the swap, I started the engine on a pallet. It ran good.
Movie of second startup on pallet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhpbSghxTmQ

I replaced all of the filters before I put the engine in the car.

I did suspect a leak from the supply-pump, so I started replacing it yesterday. It's hell when the engine is in the car, no room to scrape off old gasket.

I'll see if it gets better by changing it. If not, I'll try the other tips. Thanks a lot!

That can also happen if the rack damper bolt is way too tight.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

As it ran ok OUT of the car and it doesn't run right IN the car, what is different?

Did you have the vacuum disconnected out of the car?

How does the car run if you disconnect the vacuum? Might be a fuel shutoff issue.

__________________
Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)

The idle is stable now, but it still stalls after being reved.

Replaced the supply pump, but no difference.

The pressure relief valve is from the NA engine. There is no difference, when swapping.

Nothing is different when all the vacuum lines are disconnected.


Can leaking injectors be the problem? When it's running, I can see some small bubbles coming out from under the injectors.

The only other injectors I have is the ones from the non-turbo. Can I use them?


Thanks again, for all the help.