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#16
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Quote:
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#17
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Yes. Won't be nearly as sensitive for R-134a as R-12, but still plenty sensitive.
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#18
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Thanks... Now, what if I touch that valve and it sticks open and all my refrigerant spews out into the atmosphere ? EEEEKKKKK ...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#19
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I think that, if you buy some carbon credits from Al Gore, it will all be okay.
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#20
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Can I use Paypal for that transaction ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#21
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You guys are awesome
Well, here's where I'm at: The "good ole boy" tech will try again, investigating further, with out any added financial cost to me. So, with that in mind, I'll spend a few hours tomorrow (Saturday) with him, and see if 'we' can get the job done. He has several sniffers, and a unit with light and camera on the end of a wand... Not saying it's the best way, but I'll give him another chance, for sure. (and armed with a little peachpartsforumiteknowledge...) So, charging the system with R22 (4oz) instead of R12? Is R22 a smaller molecule, or something? And the Nitrogen gas same? |
#22
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The use of 4 oz of R22 and nitrogen allows you to test under pressure...which is totally needed..nitrogen is a dry inert gas so it will not combine with the oil and produce any bad things...
AND is EPA approved to be discharged into the atmosphere after you have found the leak... that is its advantage...and sniffers are sensitive to it.. They figure that is better than people charging up with R12 and then finding they have a leak....possibly slowly...... and losing that to the atmosphere...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#23
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Answer
Quote:
* Defective device called "Temperature Switch" in EPC, and "Temp sensor or ETR anti-icing switch" in WIS. * Defective CCU = Climate Control Repair on the 1983 300D Turbo (W123 Chassis). * Defective mono valve diaphragm. * Defective A/C Temperature Switch On Receiver Drier, (2 Spade Connectors) 6 mm Threaded Shaft MB# 000 820 80 10 * Defective A/C Pressure Switch On Receiver Drier, 9.5 mm Threaded Shaft (2 Spaded Connectors) (No Wire Lead) MB# 124 820 83 10 * Defective Receiver Drier MB# 123 830 06 83. AC Question. Still HOT in Houston. Need expert opinion! http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=258420 .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ Last edited by whunter; 06-24-2011 at 05:26 PM. |
#24
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Check the high side port for a cap. It's on the bottom of the car, near the alternator. |
#25
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By the "white flash" do you mean compressor fuse or blower fuse? There's a known problem for the blower (fuse 8, I think) that gets replaced by a strip fuse in the matchbox sized holder on the fender. |
#26
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It did take me a couple times of fooling with the connector to the compressor before it 'clicked' solidly into place - strange little bugger.
Yes, it's the #8 fuse. So you're saying there's an aftermarket fix, with a 'slo-blo' or something? Or do I look into something factory on the fender well? |
#27
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The "fix" replaced the #8 fuse with a 30A fusible link/strip fuse in a little housing. (Pic in one of the links). |
#28
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Saturday: back to Gypsy tech - he recovers refrigerant, then pulls out a big 2-stage commercial vacuum pump, and lets that baby suck on her for a while. Recharges the system, and this time we get cold air - 50 degrees at idle - parked. Ran for awhile, then shut her down, and found another leak with a sniffer. The 'plug' end of the expansion valve has a little leak, and dye is evident as well. So he tried tightening the plug (for *****s & giggles), said sometimes that works, and we pontificated on whether the 1/8" he turned it would change something in the balance of the system, and if so - what. Thats old-school tinkering for ya.
Town for groceries is 14 miles of open highway - she blew 80 degree air all the way there :/ - did some strange things in town between stores: start car, temp at nozzles dropped to 50, then slowly climbed back to 70 (ambient 75-80), with the compressor still running, but return trip of 14 miles, she blew air of 44 degrees...(?) He rolled back under, and confirmed with sniffer and dye the expansion valve is still leaking, so I'll order one up on Monday. Any thoughts on the "temp climbing with comp running" behavior? ALSO: hi-lo (second button from left), and fan on high: seems to me the dash nozzles (and floor, for that matter) should be really blowing some air - I get air flow, but no real wind storm... sound normal? |
#29
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For standard comparison your blower needs to be on low... and the AC on max air... whatever dash buttons give you that for the pencil thermometer to give reading to compare with others...
It sounds like yall are trying to find leaks by vacuum... not a good method...which it looks like you are slowly figuring out.... LOL Have you cleaned the fins on the inside of your Evaporator ? I assume this far along that the fins on condensor and radiator are cleaned AND straightened ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#30
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It's not quite the blind leading the blind, but has had it's moments
Condenser and radiator are cleaned AND straightened. How, pray tell, do I get into the evaporator? And best method to clean? I also plan to remove the ACC unit, and find those pesky little relays, and give their contacts a cleaning. Not sure I need to resolder the whole works, but will give it a thorough visual inspection. Curious: at what point, or in what setting does the system go to 'recirculate' air? And as far as the pencil thermometer and ACC settings, I roll the temp wheel to Min (clicks), but the fan is either on full, off, or auto (which steps up to high). |
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