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#1
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1980 116 window regulator removal
Hello - anyone out there fool around with the 116 drivers side window regulator? I can't seem to remove it as the forward window channel/support bar is somehow blocking. Do i first remove the motor from regulator or somehow remove the forward support?
Window fell down the other day. I found and reattached the lower clip but found only 2 of the 3 bolts in use that mount regulator to door. Buttoned the whole thing up and window fell again. The missing bolt is the forward one of 3 which takes the most torque with window in operation. Also the threaded section for the missing bolt (located on regulator) is missing and i don't see anyone selling these 4 part items (cast oval threaded portion, round rubber part with center oval hole, exterior rubber followed by round cast end piece through which bolt passes to threads). During my inspection of how the threaded attachment works on the lower 2 of existing bolts the exterior (interior to car) broke into 3 pieces. I squeezed together the forked side of the clip hoping it will stay this time. Will i need to replace regulator in order to replace broken mounts?
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1985 300D, 250k 1980 300SD, 180K |
#2
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I recently replaced my drivers door regulator on my 116. I believe the first thing you do is let the window down all the way. Then remove the lock on window opener arm and push opener arm out of window opener rail. Then push the glass all the way to the top and secure it with some duct tape. Then remove the three screws that hold the drive motor from the regulator. No need to remove the motor. Just let is sit inside the door. Next remove the remaining screws, I believe there are two that hold the regulator against the door. Finally remove regulator in downward direction. I hope this helps at least a little bit.
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#3
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X2 on what KJenkins said. I just did three of my four windows and by far the front doors were a pain in the neck compared to the back doors.
I took my "new" regulator held it in place over the existing one (front door, not necessary for the back ones) still in the door and marked where the three bolts will be under the door skin. W116.org will have some reference/directions for you in their library section. I then drilled the door skin, and the bolts to loosen the motor were right there. Once I undid those, the regulator slid right out. Install was a piece of cake then. Having never done a front door before it took me about an hour and a half. It wasn't hard..just time consuming. Best of luck. Duke1 |
#4
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KJenkins - Thanks for the post. Of course i did it all bckwards but i did take some pictures for future use. To recap what KJenkins stated:
1) Remove door panel and trim pieces 2) Remove clip on outside of on window opener arm and push opener arm out of window opener rail (pic #1). 3) Push the glass all the way to the top and secure it 4) Remove the three screws that hold the drive motor from the regulator (pic #2). No need to remove the motor. 5) Remove the remaining 3 bolts that hold the regulator against the door (pic #3). 6) Remove regulator in downward direction angled towards the opening. Reassemble in reverse order. Don't forget to lube gears and glide points. I also replaced and greased the plastic glide located behind main window arm support rail (pic #4). There are 2 pieces here. The white tabs seen in the foreground, and the U-shaped rectangular piece that raps around support rail. I replaced only the rectangular section as the other just adds tension. This removed half of my erratic window travel in the last several inches where the window would cant forwarded stressing the motor. Now i just need to mess with the other window adjustment points to adjust travel.
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1985 300D, 250k 1980 300SD, 180K |
#5
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Window adjustment per FSM
2 more pictures showing the FSM window adjustments.
116 FSM only lists this procedure for crank window but i don't see any difference between crank vs electric driven regulator
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1985 300D, 250k 1980 300SD, 180K |
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