I wanna change the fluid in the Manual trans in the 240D. I have been looking at other threads and their seems to be two distinct opinions when it comes to this subject.

On opinion is use Transmission fluid as that is what Mercedes reccomends

Another opinion is to use Redline MTL as it is designed for Manual transmissions and is thicker and more suited to lubing these transmissions but some people claim they harm syncronizers. People who use redline also say that mercedes recommended atf and atf today is different than the atf sold 20-30 years ago (which I can understand)

So I'm looking for some of you guys to chime in that drive four or five speeds to set me straight because I dont know what to put in it.
Keep in mind my car is a 1979 240d And shifts good but it is a new purchase and I dont know the age or condition of the old fluid so I want to change it.

Thanks in advance...

For what it's worth, I have been running Redline MTL in my 5-speed since I installed it in my 300TD. It's been about 10K miles and it shifts smoothly and there have been no leaks or other issues.

That's only 10K miles, admittedly, but I feel pretty secure with it since I've used Redline MTL for hundreds of thousands of miles in other period Getrag manual transmissions in BMWs over the years. Never had one fail on me yet.


KenB
1980 300TD

The 85 300D and the 80 240D, Iam using Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

When I swaped in the 4-spd into the 85, I first used Amsoil syn gear lube. my thinking was the trans had over 200K on it and maybe a little sloppy and the slightly thicker oil would help. shifted ok, but slowed down the rotational speed of the gears to shift into the next gear.

When I drained it and went to the ATF, it just smoothed out the shifting.

I have been using the Amsoil gear lube in the 5-spd in my old Datsun PU for over 400,000K and worked ok, so couldn`t see a reason it wouldn`t work on the Mercedes. but did make a difference.


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Seems like I replaced mine with regular gear oil recommended for trannies, and I did consult with Mercedes when I changed it in my 1976 240D with 4-spd. I never heard of using ATF, as it's soooo detergent, it might eat seals a little sooner.

Where you intend to drive the car is what will determine which of the two viscosities you want to choose from. You can also use syntec. But I used the lower viscosity (rather than 140), as I didn't want it to become the thickness of vaseline during the Montana winters . . . LOL. When I drained it, it was also clear that it was not ATF, but regular gear oil (80 viscosity???). What is in it now? If Synthetic, replace with synthetic, if universal gear oil, use universal, but never, never, mix them (will over heat before you get to the freeway onramp!!!). Check to see what is in there now, I would bet 80-90 viscosity oil, maybe synthetic. It'll be amber/brown. ATF back then, as is also now, was pink in color.

__________________
1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

Type F, I believe, ATF is what came in the gearbox from the factory. I have Dex/Merc in the '83 and have had since just after I bought the car almost five years ago. Changing the fluid took care of a grumpy 2nd gear synchro, and things are doing just fine. Granted, it doesn't get driven all that much. I have a couple quarts of MTF that will, eventually, go in there. Low on the priorities list, though.

Jay

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On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

bump... for a more difinitive answer, prolly just gonna put in some synthetic atf and see how that works

Jim Smith, moderator, suggest Redline MTF... so that is what I put into mine...
There is the possibility in some fluids of being corrosive to the synchro collars (wrong name) ... bronze I think... you can find this in the archives... use JimSmith for the search...he gives the whole picture...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I have redline in mine, but I also got a little 2nd gear syncro bite(bad in cold weather). It was suggested to me by a friend that I should try something other than the redline and the syncro might fix itself. I have yet to mess with it. Maybe this week.

__________________
08 R320 CDI current

Past
95 E420
87 300D Turbo 5spd
90 300TE
83 300SD
85 300TD
92 400E
85 190D

I still use RedLine without any issues. They make a new MTF and an automatic transmission fluid that they recommend for manuals in colder climates.

Fluids can prevent wear, but there is not much a lubricant can do to fix a worn part. I have noticed that each of my cars has a pace that it works best at - shift too slowly and the first to second exchange can crunch, shift too fast and the reaction is similar. It takes some getting used to as I switch from 240D to 300E to 190E 2.3-16.

The 16 valve has the most miles on it, nearing 315,000, and it shifts like butter all the time but I have attended to the shift mechanisms several times - from cleaning and lubricating the shift lever mechanism to changing the bushings on the rods. Since neither the 240D nor the 300E is all that sporty, I adapt to the mechanism's pace or try to. They both have well in excess of 200k miles.

You might want to examine your bushings in the shifting mechanism attached to the shift lever and the transmission. They have a rubber element that can get sloppy and the crunch is from trying to engage a mesh before the other one has actually been bumped all the way into to neutral.

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

is it true that type F atf is recommended by mercedes for a 1979?

JIM, my 80 240 shifts the same as you describe with yours. too fast or too slow and she will krunch a little. we have 321k on the old girl. You just have to shift the transmission for the way it was designed. though she may not shift as smooth as new, she does ok. but she does scold me now and then.

I have checked the shifter bushings, transmission end is ok, one on the shifter end is a little loose and needs replaced. I was under there a couple months ago just checking things, and noticed the shift lever on the side of the transmission was loose on the shaft. tightened the 10mm bolt, and that right there really made a difference. this is on the old Iron Box trans.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I use Royal Purple Synchromax so far no issues. There is also Penzoil Synchromesh. Google search and you can find all sorts of comparisons, you will be even more confused.

__________________
2010 ML350 Bluetec
2012 Mustang Convertible

After searching various threads, I still am at a bit of a loss as to what transmission fluid to use. My car (300D, 5-speed 717.400) was originally sold by a MB dealership in France. Owners manual is in French. Original documents also included a German owners manual. I bought a US owners manuals since I don't speak or read French or German. All three manuals are a little bit different regarding tranny fluid (see pics).
The German version says to use ATF type F in the manual transmissions (Mechanisches Getribe). I translated the French edition using Babylon and it came up with "Fluids for hydraulic transmissions for the gearbox mechanical", which I guess means use whatever is normally used in a manual tranny. The US version says to use engine oil SAE 10 W/20 W-20.

Any thoughts?

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Another...

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And the German edition...

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