Piece broken off of IP? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Travis_k · #1 07-04-2011, 04:29 PM

I noticed there was a half broken off tab on the injection pump on my car, and I looked at one at the salvage yard yesterday and the missing part looks to be an adjustable stop for the throttle linkage (on the side of the pump next to the block). Is it going to cause any major problems for that part to be gone? I imagine the only way to fix it is replace the injection pump and since it seems to work fine I am thinking its not worth worrying about.

Diesel911 · #2 07-04-2011, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Travis_k

I noticed there was a half broken off tab on the injection pump on my car, and I looked at one at the salvage yard yesterday and the missing part looks to be an adjustable stop for the throttle linkage (on the side of the pump next to the block). Is it going to cause any major problems for that part to be gone? I imagine the only way to fix it is replace the injection pump and since it seems to work fine I am thinking its not worth worrying about.

Not to be rude but I have no idea what Car, Engine or Fuel Injection Pump you have because it is not listed in your signature or included in your post.

Travis_k · #3 07-04-2011, 09:16 PM

Sorry, its an 83 300SD. I kinda forget that the other diesel cars exist because I have seen probably a total of 10 MB diesels ever that were not OM616 or OM617 powered.

Diesel911 · #4 07-04-2011, 10:08 PM

I numbered some of the stops. Which one is broke?

Travis_k · #5 07-04-2011, 10:38 PM

I believe its number 1.

Diesel911 · #6 07-05-2011, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Travis_k

I believe its number 1.

#1 adjust the Maximum Speed that the Governor will allow you Engine rpm to go. So it is sort of a Safety Feature.
On a 300D the stop is supposed to limit the Engine rpm to 4200-5200 rpm.

Without the adjustment there it is possible to over speed your Engine if you depress the Accelerator Pedal too far; depending on how much travel there is in your linkages.

Keep your Vacuum Shutoff in top shape so that you can kill the Enginge if there is any over seeding issue.

As long as you are carful with your acceleration I think you can get away with no issues.

While I am sure something could be made to act as a stop I have never read of any specific fix for that.

It may be possible to adjust your linkage so that it does not go to far.

Just like you would be adjusting it if the stop was still there you need a Tachometer if you Instrument Cluster does not have one.
You take the Car for a ride and make sure it is absolutly warmed up.
You stop the Car in park and quidkly reve the Engine and see how high it will go (remember you do not want it to go above the 4,200- 5,200 rpm speed) but you will only stay at that speed long enough to read it on the Tachometer and let it come back down.
If it goes above that try shortening the Linkage that is attached to the Throttle Lever to limit the Throttle Lever Travel.

I do not know if shortening the Linkage will have an effect on anything else so you will need to play with it.

ROLLGUY · #7 07-05-2011, 12:22 AM

I fixed that exact part on my brothers 123. I made an "L" bracket that bolted to the side (hard to explain), and double nutted the idle adjustment rod (one nut on each side of the bracket). It was done with the I P in the car. I will try to get a photo.
Edit: After looking at the photo, the other part broke on my bro's car (#2).
The result would be the same. Just make an L bracket that is held by the vertical adjuster, and the other adjuster (horizontal) is nutted on both sides. If part of the threads are still there, that is better. I think I JB welded the broken piece on as well, but the bracket is doing most of the holding.

Diesel911 · #8 07-05-2011, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I fixed that exact part on my brothers 123. I made an "L" bracket that bolted to the side (hard to explain), and double nutted the idle adjustment rod (one nut on each side of the bracket). It was done with the I P in the car. I will try to get a photo.
Edit: After looking at the photo, the other part broke on my bro's car (#2).
The result would be the same. Just make an L bracket that is held by the vertical adjuster, and the other adjuster (horizontal) is nutted on both sides. If part of the threads are still there, that is better. I think I JB welded the broken piece on as well, but the bracket is doing most of the holding.

Was it something like the Green L I drew on my pic?

(You can copy my pic in the previous Post and use Paint to draw on it to show what you did)

ROLLGUY · #9 07-05-2011, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Was it something like the Green L I drew on my pic?

(You can copy my pic in the previous Post and use Paint to draw on it to show what you did)

Close. The vertical part of the L is up against (to the right of) the aluminum part sticking out, with a nut on both sides. Usually the aluminum piece breaks in the middle of the adjustment screw, so some material is left to help hold the bolt. I used a piece of 3/4" wide aluminum and drilled 2 holes in it, and bent it in the middle.
My brother was trying to adjust the idle without loosening the lock nut first, and that is when I came up with this fix.

Diesel911 · #10 07-05-2011, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Close. The vertical part of the L is up against (to the right of) the aluminum part sticking out, with a nut on both sides. Usually the aluminum piece breaks in the middle of the adjustment screw, so some material is left to help hold the bolt. I used a piece of 3/4" wide aluminum and drilled 2 holes in it, and bent it in the middle.
My brother was trying to adjust the idle without loosening the lock nut first, and that is when I came up with this fix.

Thanks.