500 dollar find 1977 240d!!! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

IVIuzzy · #1 07-06-2011, 10:38 PM

i work here in bradenton fl, at a local indy mb specialty shop. some lady whose car weve serviced since the 80s decided to get rid of her 77 240d with just under 500k miles. my boss knows the car well. in 2003 the motor was replaced by mercedes with a brand new motor/tranny combo with less than 30k miles on it, with all paperwork well over 6500 in repairs.

the AC works perfectly, as does everything else (except the oil gauge keeps sticking). heres some photos, my only question is should i do the body work to slow down the rust? or just drive it? i plan on keeping it to 1000000 miles.

tbomachines · #2 07-06-2011, 10:39 PM

Rust? What rust!? You should see some of the cars we drive up north. Nice find!

IVIuzzy · #3 07-06-2011, 10:42 PM

more pics

in the op it was a little confusing, theres less than 30k put on the motor since it was put in, but it was brand new, with a warranty.

RML · #4 07-07-2011, 12:18 AM

Nice. Really nice. I would definitely try to stop the rust. Get some Por-15 on it if you are not able to do it right away.

I love those dual controls for the heat in the front. I wish MB had continued with that design.

charmalu · #5 07-07-2011, 01:18 AM

WOW, what a deal. yeah get on the rust. how much and where? That engine should go for a long time.

RML, just pull a complete manual ac/heat unit out of a junker 240D in one of your local yards, and swap it in. I just pulled one last Thursday from an 82.

Charlie

Stretch · #6 07-07-2011, 02:59 AM

Great deal - stop the rust!

BodhiBenz1987 · #7 07-07-2011, 03:22 AM

Nice!!! Looks a little like my 240D only mine's manual, lighter color and has a lot more rust. I'd definitely try to keep up on the rust ... a little POR15 and POR Putty goes a long way.

rs899 · #8 07-07-2011, 06:40 AM

That's pretty minor rust, as long as it's always been in Florida. I doubt there will be any undercarraige rust (although you might want to look at the inside bottoms of the doors- they didn't use that extended lower door trim until later that really helps keep the doors dry).

I have a '77 that I have stashed away for a rainy day that looks just like it, but in Maple Yellow. Gotta love those funky 70's colors.

IVIuzzy · #9 07-07-2011, 09:04 AM

there is absolutely 100% no undercarrage rust, jack points still all intact, it was always garage kept, 1 owner. small pin holes starting under rear window, resulting in water leaking, which will result in water on floor= rusted floors. but im going to patch that this weekend, and probably paint it, i dont want to go crazy on the body work though sanding and filling dents, ill probably buff the paint and spot repair the paint job.

MTUpower · #10 07-07-2011, 09:19 AM

Ha! I emailed about the car if it's the same one off CL. Nice find!

junqueyardjim · #11 07-07-2011, 10:10 AM

It looks like my $500.00 240D out of Florida. Mine was repainted by PO Nathan Carter before I got it with the ruined engine -vacuum pump got it. Anyway on the engine switch I just finished I could see my Florida baby did have a bit of rust going in the rear lower portions of both front fenders and under the battery box. I just took that jewel for a little run around the lake early this morning. I had a leak in the boost tubing and now I get 9 to 10 pounds of boost and it really likes to fly. It drives really well and so far no oil leaks. Hope it stays that way. Yesterday I went through the speedometer per Diesel Giants pictures. It was the diecast wheel slipping on the shaft. To roughen up that shaft in the shinny spot under that gear, I put the shaft as far as possible into the keyless chuck of my drill, then held a razor knife against the shaft at the shinny spot, and ran the drill and held the razor knife. That seems to have raised the diameter of the shaft enough to get a good bite on the shaft - kind of like the old process of knurling pistons to get an extra 2 or three thousands size increase. Of course in the lathe they can put so much more pressure into the work.

charmalu · #12 07-07-2011, 11:13 AM

Small pin holes of rust starting under the rear window, means there is more rust under the gasket. Your car do what you want, but I would pull the rear window and do a good inspection in the channel and pinch weld area the gasket is mounted to.

I had a big rust problem in that area with my 85 300D, and it was always a Calif car. Pulled the window, used paint stripper in the channel area, and followed the POR instructions. on the pi ch weld I painted the POR, then used their thin Fiberglass mat, and folded strips over the pinch weld, and soaked with POR. this thing is really sealed.

I would also pull the splash shields under the front fenders and wash that area out. It gets packed with dir, salt and what ever else the wheels throw in there over the years. It will hold moisture and over a period of time will start rust. and in your case, 32 yrs of crap. I doubt it has ever bee attended to.

On 85 I pulled the fenders to do a good inspection, and had rusty panel in their. I believe a lot of the Jack point rust starts because of this.

Clean out the hinge pockets real well and look real good down in there for rust. and there is a drain in there and one below the pocket into the splash shield under the fender. If you notice in the splash shield, it has a drain tube molded in it. cut out the bottom so it will drain and debris will fall through.

X2 on removing the Battery tray. this is an area that will rust because of debris and Battery acid. i would recommend to apply Anti-Seiz compound to the bolts and screws/nuts that hold the tray.

This should keep you busy for a while.

Nice car, keep it that way. they may be bullet proof in some ways, but rust is the enemy.

If you want it to last to 1,000,000 miles, you better stay on top of everything.

Charlie