Well, one year into the ownership of my '85 300SD with plenty of maintenance and fun under my belt, I decided it was time to get a second one with less mileage and let a family member drive the first one. I grabbed an '82 300SD off of craigslist with 240k miles and "minor body damage." It doesn't look too bad for the description, but it needs a lot more than just TLC.

Anywho, the few questions I have are: is it hard to disassemble the steering column (inside) to replace the turn signal lever which is ripped off , if the windows don't roll down and the switches aren't able to be manually used by pulling the connector off and jumping the wires that control the movement is it the relay and how can I test the in-door motor, and is it possible to put an '85 instrument cluster in because the current has a confusing 40 - 55 - 70 numbering scheme.

EDIT: Also, are there any specific muffler recommendations, the exhaust system is stock and quite possibly full of soot.

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-- Zachary Hardesty

'85 300SD, 526K non-rebuilt
'82 300SD, 250K

The windows are fused diagonally. Front driver's with passenger rear window; passenger front with driver side rear window. Lots of times a fuse looks good but is not. Did you replace the two fuses and try the windows?

See post 3 here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=301631

I had the exhaust system redone, I now have a pipe straight back to an ANSA muffler.

The tachs will be different, maybe the speed-o too, different gears, I believe.

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83 SD

84 CD

I second the motion. I had mine go out. If you have the original OEM fuses with the lead contacts, they eventually wear through at the point of contact, and only the plastic is "contacting." When I replaced the two fuses with the newer ones with copper contacts, they immediately started working again.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

I checked, there were three fuses out. One was the interior lights which I didn't notice were out 'til tonight when I couldn't see inside the cab. I replaced the other two but it doesn't have the fuse diagram so I dunno which ones they were. I went inside and tried to use the window switch but nothing. Also whoops, didn't remember that I posted that other thread

EDIT: Oh, the other reason I asked about the instrument cluster is that the odometer on this one is toast and I don't have stable enough fingers to reassemble it.

__________________
-- Zachary Hardesty

'85 300SD, 526K non-rebuilt
'82 300SD, 250K

If I have a chance, I will look tonight after work. There is supposed to be a cardboard in your fuse box top which lists the fuses and what they control.

Yep... my '85 has it but I have no clue whether they're the same or not. It just occurred to me, is the speedometer/tachometer in '82 SDs electronic like in my '85? I was figuring that if I could replace that part with an arduino with an LCD that my problem there would be solved. (I work on embedded systems by trade, so that's right up my alley)

EDIT: According to my '85s fuse sheet on power I blow "optical horn relay window lift term. 86"

__________________
-- Zachary Hardesty

'85 300SD, 526K non-rebuilt
'82 300SD, 250K

Your 82 SD has the 3:07 Differential, your 85 has the 2:88 Differential. the spedometers are geared to the Differential. so a spedo from a 81 - 84 should work in your 82, those years all use the 3:07 Diff.

Yes the tach and spedo`s are electric on the SD`s.

The tach on the 81-83 have a tach amplifier on the passenger side inner fender, a little round black thing about 3 1/2 in high. under it there is a greyish cable that plugs into it. the other end connects to a bracket on the crank pully. this is where it gets the signal to make the tach work.

The 84 & 85 W123 (300D) have the pick up off the flywheel, and Iam pretty sure the SD`s are the same. the cable for the tach connects into the eng/trans adaptor plate on the drivers side below the oil filter housing. It`s a black cable, and has a large round connector on the center of the firewall. then goes through the grommet on the pass side into a black box (EGR) behind the pass foot well kick panel.

So the tachs may also work different. the 300D`s have a 2 and 3 pin connector for the tach, and the SD`s may also. so may just have to swap the tachs.

You may also note the 85 has a box on the back side of the IP. this is the Rack Position Sensor, the cable from it also connects the the "Black Box". the Box controls the "EGR" function. but with 240K, I doubt the EGR is functioning anyway. the hole under it in the manifold is probably plugged tighter than a "Bulls @$$" with soot and oil vapors from the Valve Cover. the plug will be as hard as the sidewall of a tire. you will read about disabling the EGR, it already is.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

On the left side of the fuse box, top and bottom fuses that are heavier than the rest, those should be the two window fuses.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

See this thread post #4 with a discription on signal stalk removal on a 300 SD.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=301631

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Gary
OBK #37

Yep, I plated it off, I'd hope it isn't working!

See the edit in post #7, I'm blowing fuse 7 on power.

Yeah, I posted that thread and forgot, someone linked me to it before so I went over there and provided closure and linked to this thread.

__________________
-- Zachary Hardesty

'85 300SD, 526K non-rebuilt
'82 300SD, 250K

Just looked. On my 81 fuse a and b are the window fuses. Fuse 7 is the window relay.

Well I figured what's causing fuse 7 to blow. I stupidly forgot the wiper control is on the end of the turn signal, which is ripped of and jumping everywhere. Will post results after I replace the turn signal switch.

EDIT: Well, I replaced the whole lever and fuse 7 isn't blowing anymore, but the wipers aren't working.

__________________
-- Zachary Hardesty

'85 300SD, 526K non-rebuilt
'82 300SD, 250K

Sorry for the double post, but I've got a new dilemma. The windshield wipers previous to removing the old broken turn signal worked, where now there's no action whatsoever and the wipers are stuck halfway on my windshield. Is there any way to manually make the wipers move such as pulling the connector off the back of the firewall and giving it electricity?

EDIT: Forgot to mention that I have a multimeter and I'm not registering any electricity on the firewall plug. Where can I go further up the line to find this darn short killing my wipers?

EDIT 2: All fuses show resistance, so none are blown. I forgot to mention the radio doesn't work as well. Are there any serviceable parts at the firewall behind the instrument cluster or in that general area? I remember seeing some smoke before all this broke around that area... could I have broken something in the ignition switch that's causing the car to not think it's in the on position? (it starts)

EDIT 3: I think it's the ignition switch or a melted wire behind it... how do I test it?

EDIT 4: It was the ignition switch. I fried it. Bridged the connectors on the multiplug on the back and the radio and wipers came on. To fastlane!

__________________
-- Zachary Hardesty

'85 300SD, 526K non-rebuilt
'82 300SD, 250K

Not in the OE setup unless you consider the starter solenoid a relay.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13