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  #1  
Old 07-13-2011, 04:33 PM
Harrison W's Avatar
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87 SDL Dillema. Mystery power loss issue. Get it running again?

So here is my problem. My 87 300 SDL (263,XXX miles) ran away, cracking the head or blowing the head gasket (I'm assuming cracked head, it was a #14 and the engine was running away for over a minute). The turbo was replaced less than 30,000 miles ago, same with the transmission, brand new motor mounts, all six injectors were rebuilt with brand new monach tips, six brand new Bosch glow plugs, four brand new tires, all new vacuum lines, new injector return lines, EGR blocked off, 8 quarts of synthetic oil with ZERO miles on it, and last but not least a brand new IP with ZERO miles on it. (the IP was replaced after the runaway because we had broken the pump when trying to install the new shutoff valve). The engine idled perfectly when started up in the shop, and it was then discovered that the coolant was being pressurized within thirty seconds of idling.

But there was a little bit of an issue with the car previous to the runaway. It had absolutely no power. ALDA had been tweaked with properly. Here are the symptoms:

DECENT power before the engine got any hint of water temperature over 80C, and DECENT power if the ambient air temperature was under 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The minute either got hot it would lose ALL power. Floored off the line it would jump to maybe 1000 RPMs and it would take over 20 seconds to reach the turbo (and still hardly any acceleration). It really couldn't get out of its own way, at all. While this was happening there was a good amount of dark/black smoke. Almost Cummin's like smoke. Pulling up long hills it would drop from 75 to 50 while floored, and the engine temperature would hit over 100. All of this was still happening after all of the above were replaced, except the new IP, motor mounts, and oil. EDIT: When the power loss would happen the car would stall out when dropped from high rev's, and become very difficult to start and get quite smokey (black smoke).

Could the new IP solve the power problem? I'm fairly sure the CAT had been gutted by my father. This car has been in the family for over 10 years, and I would love to get it running again and keep it that way.

I will have the money to have a shop replace the head/head gasket, and I'm fairly sure the engine was OK after the runaway besides the head issue. I'm hoping to find the solution to the power loss issue, but need to get the head replaced...

Thanks for any help guys. This is a great car, with lots of sentimental value.

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1987 300SDL 271,000
1999 E300 Turbodiesel 155,000ish. (Dad's)

Last edited by Harrison W; 07-13-2011 at 06:08 PM. Reason: More symptoms.
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:04 PM
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You may have more than a problem with the head

You do not state what caused the runaway engine. You also do not state what stopped it. If it was excess oil, it is likely that the engine has been damaged beyond the head.
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  #3  
Old 07-13-2011, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theref View Post
You do not state what caused the runaway engine. You also do not state what stopped it. If it was excess oil, it is likely that the engine has been damaged beyond the head.
I thought I had posted what had caused it.... We had replaced the shut off valve incorrectly, and shut it off by pulling the main fuel line.
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:22 PM
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Does the fuel rack open properly and how is the firewall linkage?

Verify the cat is gutted.

If you have verified both of these, I would remove the ALDA and see what happens. If just belches smoke still, you may have an intake manifold leak losing the boost.
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'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

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Old 07-14-2011, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harrison W View Post
While this was happening there was a good amount of dark/black smoke. Almost Cummin's like smoke.
This statement is the answer to your question.

The IP is fine and the linkage is fine. Plenty of fuel is getting to the cylinders.

What is not getting to the cylinders is AIR. There is an inlet restriction in the manifold or in the turbo and the engine cannot breathe. The reason that it performs adequately when cold is that cold air is heavier and has more oxygen to utilize. Once the engine gets hot, the lack of sufficient oxygen results in the black smoke.

You've got to find out why there is an inlet restriction preventing air from getting to the cylinders.

The one other possibility is an exhaust restriction, but this usually does not result in black smoke. Combustion is good and there is plenty of air, but the engine won't rev because the exhaust cannot escape the system. Furthermore, you are fairly sure that the cat has already been gutted, so this conclusion is further unlikely.

B.C.
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Old 07-14-2011, 09:43 AM
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Has the vehicle been sitting for a long period of time?
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  #7  
Old 07-14-2011, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
This statement is the answer to your question.

The IP is fine and the linkage is fine. Plenty of fuel is getting to the cylinders.

What is not getting to the cylinders is AIR. There is an inlet restriction in the manifold or in the turbo and the engine cannot breathe. The reason that it performs adequately when cold is that cold air is heavier and has more oxygen to utilize. Once the engine gets hot, the lack of sufficient oxygen results in the black smoke.

You've got to find out why there is an inlet restriction preventing air from getting to the cylinders.

The one other possibility is an exhaust restriction, but this usually does not result in black smoke. Combustion is good and there is plenty of air, but the engine won't rev because the exhaust cannot escape the system. Furthermore, you are fairly sure that the cat has already been gutted, so this conclusion is further unlikely.

B.C.
The intake sounds more like the issue... I'm now positive the CAT has been gutted long ago. What steps should I take to check for an intake problem? I've had the manifold off two, three times and have cleaned it. Plus the EGR is blocked off as I mentioned earlier.

@Jusme,

The car had been sitting for around ten months in my driveway before I started to drive it as my first car. Then it was driven for over a year and these symptoms seemed to have slowly appeared.
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Old 07-14-2011, 05:45 PM
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How could the damage the IP when installing a shut off valve? That's an important fact. Never heard of it happening on this forum before.

I agree with Brian. Restricted air flow somewhere. When I was having similar problems on my CAT 3208, turns out it was a dirty air filter restricting air flow which resulted in a rubber portion of the intake between the air filter and the turbo collapsing when the turbo sucked hard and the air flow thru the filter couldn't keep up.
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
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1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
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Old 07-14-2011, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
How could the damage the IP when installing a shut off valve? That's an important fact. Never heard of it happening on this forum before.

I agree with Brian. Restricted air flow somewhere. When I was having similar problems on my CAT 3208, turns out it was a dirty air filter restricting air flow which resulted in a rubber portion of the intake between the air filter and the turbo collapsing when the turbo sucked hard and the air flow thru the filter couldn't keep up.
When I went to the mechanic that pulled the pump he showed us the inside of the pump where the shut off valve was. Apparently when we put it in it broke some kind of rod that either shuts the engine off, or meters the amount of fuel. Either way something in there was quite broken as I witnessed. Not exactly sure what it was though.

I will probably be chastised for this, but I ran a K&N air filter on the SDL and I had cleaned it plenty of times with no changes in power.. Even though it doesn't run, it is worth a check.
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Old 07-14-2011, 09:10 PM
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do you still have the air flow box that us under the filter box??? Chances are that the airflow door are stuck shut....
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  #11  
Old 07-15-2011, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harrison W View Post
The intake sounds more like the issue... I'm now positive the CAT has been gutted long ago. What steps should I take to check for an intake problem? I've had the manifold off two, three times and have cleaned it. Plus the EGR is blocked off as I mentioned earlier.
I believe it's a simple problem.

As mentioned above by Amos, the airflow door in the intake might be closed...........the air filter might be clogged...........

I'd also check the turbo impeller to be sure it will rotate.
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Old 07-15-2011, 01:31 PM
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When the car is hot / hot day, Watch the linkage when somebody else is pushing the go pedal, make sure it moves full range. Disconnect the cross over tube and go for a very short drive. If the car can't haul its own butt off the line, remove the bolt in the exhaust manifold or disconnect the EGR copper tube from the exhaust manifold. Go for another very short drive. If it's still a slug, pop off the ALDA. If it's still a slug, you have IP or fuel feed issue. Rig up a direct feed container and short return under the hood, go for a drive. Slug = IP issue.
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2011, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
When the car is hot / hot day, Watch the linkage when somebody else is pushing the go pedal, make sure it moves full range. Disconnect the cross over tube and go for a very short drive. If the car can't haul its own butt off the line, remove the bolt in the exhaust manifold or disconnect the EGR copper tube from the exhaust manifold. Go for another very short drive. If it's still a slug, pop off the ALDA. If it's still a slug, you have IP or fuel feed issue. Rig up a direct feed container and short return under the hood, go for a drive. Slug = IP issue.
Black smoke is caused from excess fuel. This car does not have enough air. maybe the waist gate is stuck open ive seen that before. Is the cat removed or hollowed out? Just unhook the exhaust and drive to verify.
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:48 PM
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Quick question. I've been looking at replacement heads, and I've run into a #17 head. Is there anything different about this head compared to the dreaded #14 head? Any that would need to be changed to install this one? This is the casting number: 6030161701. I'm assuming this is a #17 head... 57,000 miles on it, and 18 month warranty for $720.00
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Old 07-18-2011, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harrison W View Post
Quick question. I've been looking at replacement heads, and I've run into a #17 head. Is there anything different about this head compared to the dreaded #14 head? Any that would need to be changed to install this one?


Yes... injectors, prechambers, and glowplugs off the top of my head.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
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