So it's finally come down to replacing 'them suckers'. I've done some research via the forum and have some conflicting info I need help getting the straight answer. So like I said, I need to replace the lower control arm ball joints on my 240D. Most noticeably on the passenger side. My question is do I need to compress the spring and take out the entire assembly? or can I replace that ball joint while it's still attatched? Additionally, what kind of 'puller' do I need to rent from...uh.. autozone/advanced auto parts..


Thanks all!

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1983 Euro 240D 277K
2016 Mazda 6
Coming Soon, 2013 Mercedes E350 Bluetec
Formers:
2012- Mazda 3
2007 Outlander- complete pile
1995 E300 Diesel 208K
2007 VW Passat 2.0T 63K SOLD
2003 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sport Sold 04/11 w/88K
2009 Lexus RX350 9061 miles. Sold 04/09
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS:Totaled Sept.,09 @ 24,000
2003 Infiniti I35 58K Sold
1984 300 turbo diesel 222K

no, the LCA ball joint is pressed out and in from the spindle which is removable from the control arm.

DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

If they Lower Control Arm is staying on the Car; People have said that you can support the Lower Control Arm on a something like a Jack Stand and let the weight of the Car keep the Spring Compressed while you remove the Spindle/Steering Knuckle from the Lower Control Arm so that you can change the Ball Joint the as Don said is actually in the Spindle.

Details should be somewhere in the DIY links

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

And some of those "people" wrote the W123 FSM.

OK, but I read it here on the Forum from what other Members said they did.
I have not actually seen it in the FSM nor have I tried it that way myself.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yea i'm not sure if this is something I want to handle myself, the warnings and precautions in regards to the perch springs and/ or having to compress them and remove them has me on the fence about doing this myself. Unfortunately, I have 'her' sitting in the garage not being driven because last time I did drive her (about a week ago), it started vibrating really horribly when I was braking around corners at low speeds with 2 other passengers in the car... Anyone know of any good shops in the Chicago-land area

__________________
1983 Euro 240D 277K
2016 Mazda 6
Coming Soon, 2013 Mercedes E350 Bluetec
Formers:
2012- Mazda 3
2007 Outlander- complete pile
1995 E300 Diesel 208K
2007 VW Passat 2.0T 63K SOLD
2003 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sport Sold 04/11 w/88K
2009 Lexus RX350 9061 miles. Sold 04/09
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS:Totaled Sept.,09 @ 24,000
2003 Infiniti I35 58K Sold
1984 300 turbo diesel 222K

I did my front end last summer. You have to remove the spinals to get the lower ball joints out. Member Delivery Valve has a spring compressor he lends out. I borrowed it. It works well. It's a big project, and unless you've got all the tools, and time to do it, I would let a professional handle it. I rented a press from my local auto parts place.

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What part of "spring compression is not required" did you fail to understand?

Tango is right. You do not need to remove the spring on W123's to remove the steering knuckle in order to replace the ball joint.

You:

A) support the LCA with a jack stand
B) Do NOT remove the shock absorber since the shock and the LCA bushing keep the LCA in place and the spring securely attached to the car.

There may be reasons for not wanting to tackle the job yourself, but concern about removing or compressing the spring wouldn't be very high on the list.

If you have access to the FSM, sections 33-400 and 33-440 are the ones that describe the process.

Some terminology: the "spindle" (or 'spinal'?) is the part upon which the hub rotates. It is part of the "knuckle". The ball joint is installed into the knuckle on the other side of the spindle. So you want to remove the knuckle - and yes, the spindle will also come off since they're all one piece.

I had one done at a shop for a reasonable price.

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83 SD

84 CD