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#1
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dummy injector for compression testing
The dummy injector that came with my el-cheapo compression tester had malformed threads and no way was I going to screw it into my head and booger the hole... Tossed it out.
Has anyone taken a stock Bosch type injector and "hollowed it out" for making compression readings? I have some spares. The el-cheapo tester has a bunch of other kinds of adapters and things for testing all kinds of engines via glow plug or injector holes. Glow plugs are to hard to get at with my engine, I want to do it injector style. All of the adapters have a schrader valve in them for holding pressure readings at the dial gauge. Each adapter has a quick release type coupling (like air compressor tools) to mount the gauge on any adapter. I can find no combination of adapter parts in the kit that mate with the top of a Bosch injector where the nut screws down onto it. Maybe somebody has done something?
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Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D |
#2
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Not personally, but a buddy of mine took apart a Bosch injector, drilled and tapped some threads for 1/4 NPT, then put a regular "air line" quick disconnect fitting on the top side. It worked great.
SteveM.
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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver) '87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car '84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder '13 Ram 2500 Diesel '05 Toyota 4Runner |
#3
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Yes, it just depends on how much work and expense you are willing to go through.
If you already have Drills, Taps, and Dies and such it might not be much of an issue.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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Well, I can't believe how lucky I was to find the perfect brass fitting to make this happen!
In the pressure washer parts section of my favorite hardware store here in Canada "Princess Auto" (like a Harbor Freight in USA), I found a brass adapter fitting with the needed metric thread pitch (22mm x 1.5mm) for screwing into the injector bottom half, and has a 1/4" NPT female on its other end. Then a very standard brass fitting dropping the 1/4" to 1/8" NPT female and ta-da!! The quick change compression tester fitting screws right into that. The overall height of this is about the same as a standard injector. Total cost about $7 for the brass parts, no tap&die, or welding. A little more detail: I separated and tossed the top half of the injector, removed and tossed the pin from the nozzle, and enlarged the nozzle tip hole to about 1/8" using a diamond coated cone shaped Dremel tip. (No drill bit would bite into the nozzle metal, dang it's hard!) I put the nozzle body and its crowning cap in the injector in their normal orientations, but tossed the spring seat pin, the spring, and the spring shims. Then I dropped a couple standard metal washers in next so the brass fitting would screw down onto this stack of parts to keep the nozzle body located firmly in its natural position. Thread sealant and wrenched all the brass fittings down firmly, done! Now, I can finally test compression, something I've never done with my car.
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Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D |
#5
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I had forgotten about this when I made my previous post but there is dead space inside of the Injector where the Spring goes.
The dead space will decrease your compression reading a little. This is not a big issues unless you end up with a border line minimum compression.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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Yes, keeping air space inside the false injector to a minimum to get truer readings... I thought of that! I filled space inside with metal bushing parts laying around, just to fill the void with something uncompressible.
I had another idea about putting a thin soda straw through the brass fittings and fill the void with epoxy / JB weld, then when it dries trim the straw.. but I didn't go there.
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Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D |
#7
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You did it the hard way. I wonder how low a reading you will get with the extra volume in the injector?
Glow plug hole is much easier. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5AB-Es6MZk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1MB1ygVqXM
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#8
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Instead of going through the Injector hole that needs a new heat shield every time it comes out.....why not the Glow plug hole that doesn't.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#9
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"Glow plugs are to hard to get at with my engine." 87 300D.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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..thanks Diesel911, beat me to the punch.
I *wish* I could just pop a tester into a glow plug hole, but this is a OM603. Update: I re-did the innards of my false injector.. I had a hunch this would work out, and it did: two nozzles fit back-to-back in there. For some miraculous reason the machining of the brass fitting was such that the second nozzle slid up into it... perfectly. So here's how it's built now: Lower injector half, drop a gutted nozzle in as you would normally position it, dropped a thin copper crush washer (one size that comes with each oil filter I buy fits), drop a second gutted nozzle down the hole backwards (butt to butt), screw on the brass fittings.. etc. The second nozzle tip hole is Dremelled larger, like the first. ..and regarding that heat shield question... I was wondering... There's a nylon washer that came with the compression test kit, that is the same size as a heat shield. Is it meant to drop down the hole (like a shield) for doing the compression readings? Or would it be "OK" to re-use the old shield for making a compression test reading. (Of course, re-install of the injector always gets a fresh shield, I know that much.)
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Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D |
#11
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I'll agree.....I was thinking OM617 from someone elses thread.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#12
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Quote:
Which HF kit do you have? Mine came with a copper washer, not nylon. Problem with the HF kit is there are too many connection points. Each one is a potental leak. I have heavily modified mine and the only parts used are the gauge and the tips. Mine don't leak no more.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#13
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The compression tester kit was an ebay acquisition, very China brand. I think it was $50 all in.
So, is it fair to say the nylon washer that came with my kit is meant to drop down the hole - like a heat shield - when taking injector hole readings? Are you recommending copper is better?
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Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D |
#14
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I don't have a clear picture of what your adapter looks like, but if you have an actual nozzle to pass the compression to your gauge, then you need a good seal between the nozzle and the head, i.e. a new heat shield or equiv, otherwise it would leak out the injector body to cyl head threads if it was not well sealed.
Oh and BTW, if your gauge slowly drops after you stop cranking, you have a leak
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#15
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Quote:
You can re-use the Copper Washers as long as they are not too distorted by heating them red hot and letting them cool. The Nylon washer may also work for checking compression. Some Hardware stores sell Nylon Whashers (incase it splits).
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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