Lately my 1984 123 has seemed to have fuel starvation symptoms, so I remove the fuel line at the tank and get just a dribble (with the tank cap loose). Has to be clogged. So i need to pull the tank screen (and I had just recently put a good shot of fuel in it.)

Also, my tank vent was clogged ...I think by a mud daubing wasp. Opened that up and put screen material over it so it can't happen again.

Now to the main question- Has anyone here tried removing the tank screen and just using another external inline filter ?

I'm thinking about doing this and can't think of a reason why it would not work, but am I missing something ? What think ye ?

__________________
Diesel-guy

I think it's not a great idea.

The tank screen is doing it's job fine and its been in there for 20+ years.

If you pull the tank screen and clean it, you can re-install it for another 20 years with probably no issues.

If you have an active fungus issue, that needs to be addressed either with tank enzyme treatment or pulling the tank and having it steam cleaned.

dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

X2
Cure the problem ~ crud in your tank, the screen just showed you have a problem.
What fuel are you using?

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Why do you want to completely get rid of it? I guess I just don't see the logic behind it

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

As everyone has said it is simply better to keep the tank clean to begin with. In fact that would be so even if you had the type of Filter you want.

I do not know what micron the mesh on the Fuel Tank Screen is but it looks larger than the 20 microns of the tiny Plastic Filter.
You of couse could replace it with another type of filter that has a similar mesh size. However, anything under the car could be subject to damage by something you run over on the Road.
If you do decide to put such a filter on it would be nice if it had a Drain on it.

Leave enough Hose on the Fuel Tank Side so that you can clamp off both sides of the Hoses when you change the Fuel Filter.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

So,My first response would be a good dose of Starbrite's Startron.
(It'll Kill the Fungus and reduce the little Fungus Corpses
[They're what Clogs the Tank Strainer/Filters] to Microscopically small enough
particles that they pass through the Strainer and Filters and are burned along with the Diesel.)

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

If you retain the tank filter, I recommend getting a new one. Mine had holes in the screen. Car was running without the benefits of the tank filter for a unknown amount of time.

The tank filter can hold back alot more dirt and rust than a inline filter.

__________________

Present
1987 300SDL
1991 300SL
1990 560SEL
2001 ML320

Past
1969 200D 1979-82
1983 300SD 1984-85
1972 250C 1982-02
1995 S350 2011
1997 S320 2012

Thanks for the input.

I removed the tank screen from the tank and it was covered with "slime"(On paper towel in photo).

The fuel I siphoned from the tank looked clean.

I cut off the screen assembly and put another larger clear filter in the engine compartment. Very easy to monitor and change...even alongside the road. If the tank screen were to clog on a road trip, that would not be fun. I want trash OUT of the fuel tank not forced to remain in the tank because of a screen.

If I can figure out a place for it, I want to install a filter/water separator like the John Deere model in the pic. I got the one in the photo at a yard sale, in a box of misc. filters for about $5.

Car runs great now. Later, Brad.

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
Diesel-guy

Pull the tank, wash the inside with Gasoline, then hot soapy water, rinse, rinse. Then put your heat gun or hair dryer on one of the holes and leave all the other holes open. let it evaporate all of the water. stray it down with WD40 for good measure and let that drain out. Install the tank.

My roommate did this on his SD in about 2 hours.

__________________

That JD filter looks like a relabeled goldenrod.

__________________
___________________________________________
'86 300 SDL '83 300D Astral Silver/Blue
354k miles.. 326k miles..

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ine=1310252049

Interesting observation. A counter man at Napa called it a Raycor or Raycor style. He didn't even need to look the element up, just walked over to it and it was right. Filters are readily available for it in water absorbing or standard. Would be interesting to know what JD it fit and what it would cost new from JD.

I like the Biocide idea and yes pulling and washing the tank would be the next step. My external filter is already filling up with "glop" after less than 50 miles.
Now it is easy to get to and change.

__________________
Diesel-guy

X2

I dont understand why so many want to "re-invent the wheel " by putting extra filters on & removing the strainer.
Just put some Startron in it & ONLY USE GOOD CLEAN, FRESH DIESEL !!!!!
Its not rocket science !!!

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Brad,
Always remember that with the factory setup you can temporarily "bypass" the tank screen by swapping the supply & return fuel lines under the hood. You need at least 1/2 tank of fuel, as the return line extends that much in the tank.

I found this out 2 or 3 times after I had problems with the tank screen on a car which sat for 6 years.

__________________
Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW