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  #61  
Old 05-30-2015, 10:41 AM
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How to fix a play in the steering box

My box has a big play (2 inches or so). I read about this cars having some play but I feel it is too much. And it is dangerous when you drive in the highway at 120km/h. How can I fix it? I read the problem can be some parts are worn out especially the balls inside. I went to the link you mention but even when that tutorial is impressive no balls change is done.

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  #62  
Old 05-30-2015, 11:47 AM
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Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hjoab View Post
My box has a big play (2 inches or so). I read about this cars having some play but I feel it is too much. And it is dangerous when you drive in the highway at 120km/h. How can I fix it? I read the problem can be some parts are worn out especially the balls inside. I went to the link you mention but even when that tutorial is impressive no balls change is done.
Whilst some people have talked about balls being the problem that is something I'd worry about once I got it in pieces - check for wear before assuming that's the problem.

If you follow the procedure in this thread and read through the FSM I reckon you will probably stand a good chance of improving your steering box.

If you don't want to do it yourself contact martureo (see previous posts) to see if he's still refreshing boxes for people.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #63  
Old 09-18-2016, 06:01 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 13
Steering Box Valve re-assembly

So I followed David Petryk's write up and resealed my steering box on my '86 560SEL. After installing, I added fluid and started the process of bleeding/filling the system with the front wheels off the ground. After putting in almost a quart, I lowered the front to the ground and continued. It seemed like it was taking alot of fluid and the next think I knew, a big puddle of fluid was coming out from the car. Turns out, the valve assembly shot out of the box and I saw the 3 pieces on the ground. My valve does not have a bolt or nut holding it in as The one in David's write up. It is simply held in by a C clip. I believe the C clip I used was just a little too small and once pressure was put on the valve, it dislodged.

Before I re-assemble, I wanted to make sure I was assembling correctly. Do the parts go back in based on the order in the pic? That is, the 2 part valve, then the spring and then the cap? I remember I had to compress the cap in order to get the C clip on. I started worrying that maybe I did not assemble parts correctly and this is why the valve cap shot off. Can anyone help? Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
What a feeling it will be! A properly adjusted W123 / W116 / W126 power steering box-screen-shot-2016-09-18-5.00.58-pm.png  
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  #64  
Old 09-19-2016, 12:45 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: N.W. In.
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Smile

Yes that it how it goes rdaufan I just did mine about 2 days ago I found it challenging to get that valve in properly with the circlip because it is spring loaded. I got the assistance of my wife had it laying on floor had her depress the valve into cavity with screwdriver or punch while I worked the circlip into the groove and heard it lock into place. Dont know if I could have done it myself maybe others can chime in how they do it. Mine didnt pop back out yet and seems to not be leaking anymore although I have not got the car rolling again after engine install maybe tomorrow I'll fire it up.
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  #65  
Old 09-19-2016, 07:32 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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It is much easier to use something such as a wood working clamp to compress the spring when the steering box is out of the car on a work bench!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #66  
Old 09-19-2016, 07:53 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 13
Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try to reinstall without pulling the box again. I may not have gotten the circlip snapped in, causing my problem. Thanks again.
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  #67  
Old 03-10-2017, 02:38 PM
ClassicFan
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mexicali, Mexico
Posts: 9
Talking EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL PARTS CLEANING

Hi Stretch,
Congratulation on this awesome writing, that was very informative and supporting for me and I am sure for all other as well!!!!

I would like to ask you if there is any problem using gasoline to clean internal and external parts of the gear box can cause any problem/damage to it?

Thanks!!!!

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  #68  
Old 01-08-2018, 11:12 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 1
help!!

i see is an old post!! do you remember if is a spring inside the control valve of the steering box?
thank you a lot!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
I've set the names of the parts of the steering box in the following photographs.



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  #69  
Old 05-01-2020, 02:38 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 38
post #6 how to remove control valve

HI There,

I tried to remove the control valve as first step. after I open the cover.

Cannot pull the control valve out. am I missing a step ?

I am assuming nothing else must be removed before the dontrol valve is taken out as per post #6

please guide me on removing the control valve-

thanks
c

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