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#1
08-12-2011, 08:07 AM
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Removing broken exhaust manifold studs from 603 head.
Suggestions? I have two of them. One will be easy it is in the middle. The other is the last one. I guess I will have to do it by hand?
Itching to get my euro manifold and HY30W on....
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 
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#2
08-12-2011, 09:35 AM
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Left-hand bits.
Left-hand, or reverse, drill bits work wonders. If there's any kind of a lip or ridge on the broken portion, you might be able to get in there with a punch and walk the stub out. Penetrating oil... lots of penetrating oil. There were a couple broken ones on mine. They came out quite easily. Lucky, I guess. My old Volvo 242 Turbo ate manifold studs like candy. Took me a couple sets before I realized the manifold was warped. Got real good at removal!
Jay
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On the road, currently: '83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!) '87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side" '87 300TD 225k mi. Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er
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#3
08-12-2011, 01:16 PM
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I saw this video on you tube which was quite good if the stud is broken off below the surface.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX7vK3d3l7M There are also things called stud extractors which can be used to grip on to stubborn buggers that are broken off above the surface.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#4
08-12-2011, 03:40 PM
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I assume the head is still on the block and in the car?? The steel used in those studs is not that hard so you should be able to drill a hole in the stud and use an EZ-out extractor to remove the broken stud. Lots of penetrating oil, as has been said, and maybe a little heat first. If you can work with a warm head the stud may come out more easily. If necessary, smooth the broken surface with a Dremel tool and carefully center-punch the stud before drilling the hole. You may need to use a right-angle electric drill to get access, I don't think there's enough room for a standard electric drill. Use caution to avoid drilling off at an angle and getting into the alloy head itself.
The idea of using a left-hand drill bit is also worth investigating; if the stud is not that tight (although I've never seen one that wasn't) the drill itself may be enough to back out the broken stud. Please share your results. Jeremy
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 "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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#5
08-13-2011, 02:14 PM
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I used the Irwin extractor and a right angle chuck adapter from harbor freight. The back one I had to do blind but managed to get it right on in the middle. I tried a left handed bit on the rear without any luck.
__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42
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