Well this is frustrating, I have fuel coming out of the last 2 delivery valve nozzles but the two in the front dont seem to be bleeding?

How much cranking is needed usually to purge the air out of the IP after doing delivery valve seals.

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'84 190D 2.2 OM601.911 144K

I am not sure why but since the New year and a few Months before that people have been having a lot of trouble getting their Engines started after replacing the Delivery Valve O-rings and the Crush Washers. With similar symptoms to yours.
If they have been making any mistakes I have not been able to pick up on it from their Threads.

If you remove your Fuel Injection Lines from the Fuel Injection Pump and crank the Engine does Fuel shoot up from all of the Delivery Valve Holders?

Depending on what and how you remove the actual Delivery Valve it is possible to pull the Element that is below it up and out of the slot that lines it up. If that has happend to you the Delivery Valve Holders (the ones you tightened with the special Socket) that are working OK will be seated Lower than the other Delivey Valve Holders.

The ones that are not working would be sticking out higher than the good ones.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Well I took the lines off all of the delivery valves to see easier, and I took off the two working delivery valves to check those out as well to see what was going on. Now I am now getting any fuel from any of them. Perhaps I just need to crank the engine more?

Not sure how much cranking is needed though I figured it would only be a little while?

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'84 190D 2.2 OM601.911 144K

I hope you are right.

The reason I am haveing trouble grasping what has been happening with you and others is when I worked in a Fuel Injection Shop when we removed a Fuel Injection Pump from the Test stand we would drain out as much of the Calibration Fluid as we could; because of how much it cost.

Even after draining the IPs I have seen bored Customers get squirted in their Faces because they saw a Fuel Injection Pump (remember it was drained) sitting on the Counter and they rotated the Fuel Injection Pump by Hand (and got squirted). And, this is without the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump connected.

I have even seen that happen with IPs that had sat on the shelf for several years.

So I am puzzled when I read a thread where an IP with a Lift Pump giving it Fuel is not putting out any Fuel from some of the outlets.

It may simply be that most of the Fuel in the Fuel Lines back to the Fuel Tank are dry because the Fuel drained back into the Fuel Tank. That would mean a lot of Air is going to have to be pumped out before Fuel even reaches the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump.

I had this experience with my Volvo that had sat for more than 1 Year because I had taken apart the Fuel Injection Pump and not put it together in a timely manner. I ended up hooking up one of my generic type Electric Fuel Pumps to bring Fuel up to the IP from the Fuel Tank.

Even with the Electric Fuel Pump it took what I considered a long time.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I mean to say in my previous post that I am not getting any fuel coming from any of the delivery valve's.

Whats the best way to bleed air out of this should I leave the injector lines off and just crank it?


PS: I have been working on this all day today and yesterday and its really starting to wear on me as I am supposed to be going on Vacation on monday and I am really starting to get depressed over this.

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'84 190D 2.2 OM601.911 144K

Just to put things into perspective for you here:
The maximum volume of fuel injected/cyl on that engine is 44mm³ - that is at full throttle and full boost. That may sound a lot but it equates to the size of a +/- 4mmØ ball bearing and at idle/no load setting to about 10% of that. Certainly nowhere near enough to “squirt you in the eye” under any circumstances!

This would suggest that you still have an air bubble in the low-pressure chamber, the front elements are always the first to be starved (front of pump is inclined up) so first thoroughly bleed L/P circuit.

There is now still a lot of air in the H/P circuit so bleed as follows:

1) Reconnect fuel pipes to fuel pump and injectors and torque to 40-50nm.
2) JUST crack open all 4 injector connections. (This is important to keep air pressure build up in pipe while cranking and purge air in the loop of pipe)
3) Crank engine with FULL throttle until fuel leaks at all four injectors and tighten preferably while cranking continues. This could take at least a minute or more even at full throttle – with throttle closed all day!
4) Continue to crank with FULL throttle until engine fires as air must now be purged from injectors.

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Beagle

Please read this to verify the seal where done correctly.

OM60_series IP delivery valve reseal
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=173991

**************************

Re-charge the battery as needed.


Connect the injector lines and tighten.

#1. Crank the engine for thirty seconds.

#2. Stop, allow the starter to cool off/rest for five minutes.

Repete as needed, up to six times = three minutes total crank time.

Do not touch the fuel lines, unless there is a visual fuel leak.

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For fastest air bleeding, never open more than one steel injector line connection at a time while cranking the engine.

This engine will start (shakes hard) on two cylinders, and purge itself in a few minutes.
Unless the delivery valve adjustment has been altered.

On the PDF in the link you supplied, On part 7g the pressure valve carrier it says "pay attention to installed position" are they just referring to the orientation where it has the ring cut into it?

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'84 190D 2.2 OM601.911 144K

On the attached pic if you pulled 7g out then pay close attention to the installed position.

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Jim

Well I did not pay close attention so thats why I was asking is it just the up/down part of it as shown in the PDF?


And just a little update i have fuel coming out of 2 of the injectors now 3 & 4, it fired up for one second and died. Still trying at it, cracked likes 1 & 2 to check but no fuel there yet.

I suppose its possible that there really is just that much air in the system?

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'84 190D 2.2 OM601.911 144K

If you have fuel coming out of two or three of them you should be able to button it up and fire it up.

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Jim

Have fuel coming out of all the 4 metal injector lines now.

Okay its starting to sound like it wants to start but its not actually starting!

So if you were to reuse a copper washer, as I did after I went in for the 2nd time to check my work. Could it cause the car not to start?

Also if thats not the case then do I need a new injection pump?

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'84 190D 2.2 OM601.911 144K

Just posting again because I am desperately trying to get my car working again.

Can reusing the copper crush washers make the car not start?

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'84 190D 2.2 OM601.911 144K

If you are getting Fuel up to the Injectors I do not think re-using the Crush Washers would keep it from starting.

After that you need working Glow Plugs and a Starter and Battery that will provide a good Cranking Speed.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel