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#1
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OM61x water pump bolts
Seeing as I could not find the answer with the search feature I'll ask it now and hopefully it will be useful in the future.
What is the bolt size, lenght, thread, etc for the 617/616 water pump? Stainless steel or regular anodized? thanks Also, When I removed the water pump belt last week I put it on and I think I put it on too tight, thus leading to a leak from the water pump. I just loosened it and not sure if it is loose enough or not but I compared the looseness to the other belts and it seems to be the same now. |
#2
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M6 x 1 x 20mm, I believe.
Jay
__________________
On the road, currently: '83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!) '87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side" '87 300TD 225k mi. Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er |
#3
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I got my new water pump bolts from ACE. Just take one down there and they have them. They are only slightly shorter, but I've had no problems.
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#4
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To the best of my knowledge Steel is not anodized.
Non-stainless Steel bolts are often plated. You can use Never Seeze type compounds on the threads and shank of regular Bolts and that most often keeps them from rusting or corroding in that area. Stainless would be nice but be sure to get the same Grade.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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I was planning on using anti-seize. I'll go remove a bolt now if I can and head to Lowes since I think the Ace in town is closed and has a crap selection of hardware
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#6
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#7
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I've done it before on my 617. Forgot you did a DIY
Stainless bolts are nice. With my delorean, that community is stainless everything. It's funny how they get obsesses over it... "oh man stainless water pump bolts!" or "omgwtfbbq stainless steel throttle spool cover" cleaned off the gobs of orange RTV with a razor blade and made sure the gasket surface was free of that stuff. Then I put a film, note here a film of orange RTV to fill any scratches or small knicks in the gasket surface. Tightened them down (torque wrench isn't that reliable so guten tight but not snappingly tight). I'm pretty much done with the swap out anyways. Just being lazy. New belts are coming this week! Done with that job. Burping the cooling system is a pain. Almost got a bit too hot while letting it idle on level ground while burping. But its filled and is good to go. Still runs a bit too warm for my liking. Runs at 87-88 ish and I don't like waiting in hot FL traffic with it. I'll add a new thermostat and I need a new radiator cap too. also, I cannot tell which radiator cap I have. I do not see a 1.2 or 1.4 bar markings anywhere. which should I get? Last edited by TheDon; 08-21-2011 at 06:35 PM. |
#8
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Did you do a full cooling system flush? I might have missed that.
__________________
Codifex 1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.) 1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof. 1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins) |
#9
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With those bolts holding the impeller into the aluminum wp housing I would be very careful about using shorter bolts. They thread into aluminum so need a lot of thread to develop their holding power. If too short they will have a tendancy to strip out the partial threads in the aluminum that they are grabbing.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#10
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the bolts were 1 cm shorter so I think thats going to be ok. Coolant flush, no because the stuff in it was already green.
Ordering a 75C thermostat so it will operate in a more comfortable range for me. |
#11
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Stainless steel bolts threaded into aluminum are not nice at all. Plated steel is a much better choice.
No way is 1 cm shorter okay. Last edited by tangofox007; 08-22-2011 at 10:08 AM. |
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