Hi folks, I can finally partake in fixing a Mb just like the rest of you as I bought the 240d with a 4 speed that I was planning to look at. It was in good shape as the owner described - (even the spare was org. -never actually used) but has a few small bugs to work out. I was actually surprised by the acceleration - my wife who was following in our Previa actually told me to slow down in the city!!

I do however have a few questions related to the mentions "bugs".

1. All of the dash & heater lights don't illuminate with the headlights on. The only light that is on is the ac light. I can't find the rheostat & I think it is weird all of the above lights don't work. I've checked the fuse. (it was a bit tricky to drive how at night without the dashboard lights)

2. Rear defroster switch lights up, but doesn't seem to defrost window.

3. The owners manual suggests I use engine oil in the std. trans. Is this what I should use?

Aivars with a 240d in PEI

I took another member's advice and used Mobil 1 10-30 in the transmission. It has worked fine since then.

ajb, congratulations on your purchase, and I hope it brings you the same pride of ownership that owning an MB Diesel brings to the rest of us.

As for the transmission fluid, I noted earlier I use a product from Redline Oil called Manual Transmission Lubricant. It is available in two grades or wieghts, and I have just put the heavier weight product in my 190E 2.3-16. I also use their differential lubricant for the differential. The stuff is a synthetic oil base with additives to make them perform in the intended applications. They have a website, and I think it is www.redlineoil.com. I am not affiliated with them in any way, I just started using their products about ten or more years ago and think they have served me well so far. Mobil 1 makes similar products and they are more readily available. The Redline manual transmission lubricant has modifiers to make the synchros work effectively, and I like the feel it gives the transmission. Normal engine oils contain no such friction modifiers, but they will work also.

Once again, congratulations and enjoy your new vehicle! Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

ajb:

Check the fuse for the rear window defroster (I think it is #10) for corrosion or poor contact -- the little "torpedo" fuses MB uses tend to corrode or get little rings dented into them, and lose contact. You could also have a bad relay or a wire pulled loose in the trunk -- the wires for the defroster enter the vehicle at the lower corners of the window, and could have been snagged and pulled loose by something.

I suspect you will rapidly discover why we all love our diesels!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Aivars,
Congrats on the new purchase! it's always rewarding buying a new car, especially one with a stick shift. With regards to the transmission oil, I use Castrol GTX 20W-50 in my MGB. It has seemed to work a lot better than the 10W30 that I had in there before. I'm not quite sure if that weight oil is acceptable for the winter climate (maybe someone else will chime in about that) but I wasn't thinking about that because the MG is a warm weather car for me. Good luck with the new 240D, sounds like a nice car.

Alex

__________________
1983 300D (parked for four years)
2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual
2001 Miata SE
1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside

Congrats on the new purchase! I'd be careful about using ATF on any manual transmission without knowing more about it. The ATF feels good because it's lighter than most crankcase oils but I've been told by an experienced tranny guy that only transmissions that have integral oil pumps can safetly use ATF. Some manuals have them others just rely on the oil splashing around. I don't know if the MBZ boxes have a pump but if they don't you could have a problem. I'd also second the pitch for Red Line. I've had great luck with the stuff too. Enjoy your new purchase.

__________________
LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

Thanks for all the help and the congrats!

I did get the dash lights to come on after playing with the rheostat a lot- although they do seem a bit dim. I guess that's better than no lights!

I'll check out the Redline availability locally. Also I ran across a previous post that suggested I can use Mobil 1 10w-30. Is there any concern using synthetics in the manual trans. I know in my Tr6, a lot of owners frown upon it as they claim it is "too slippery for the synchros"?

Could someone also pt. me in the direction of the the rear defroster relay? I'm sort of lost until I buy a manual, which hopefully I'll do today.

The scary part is owning this diesel is that my wife is chomping at the bit to drive it. I guess this mean I might have to buy another one?

Aivars

Ha Ha!
...yes, you must buy another one!

I put synthetic gear oil at great cost $ in my Alfa GTV6 gear box, and I think it sucks! I used the cheap brand you see in Kragens etc, and the synchros are even slower! This box uses the Porsche type synchros which I doubt the MB has.

Another note about oils, gear oil has superior "sheer force strength" than motor oil. There has been much discussion on motorcycle forums about using car motor oil in motorcycle engines. Motorcycle engines typically share their oil with the transmission, which is why only motorcycle oil is recomended because of the "sheer force modifiers" in them to keep the gearbox alive.

Perhaps this motorcycle oil would be ideal in MB manual boxes!

__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"

My wife can't belive I'm looking for such an "old car" and says she doesn't want anything to do with it! I'll change her

My vote is also for Redine MTL in the manual transmission. I've never used it in a MBZ 'box, but it has worked great in a MG Midget I used to own (and it had a really ratty transmission) and in both of my Hondas.

However, on a Mercedes diesel list I used to subscribe to, I mentioned Redline MTL and was told by several list members that it wasn't the right stuff for the Mercedes manual trans. I don't recall why they said it wasn't the way to go, but I think they were using Mobil 1 ATF.

Having said that, if I had a 240D with a manual trans, I'd give Redline a shot.

Sincerely,

Aaron

Aivars,

The Redline Manual Transmission Lubricant (MTL) has friction modifiers and other additives to make it friendly to the synchros, so shifting feels good, even when the car is cold. It also lasts a long time, as I have left it in my 190E 2.3-16 manual transmission for up to 60,000 miles, and it comes out clean which was not the case with the factory fill after 30,000 miles. It will not fix an abused transmission, so if there are difficulties with engagement of the dog clutches of the gear selectors, or worn synchros, they will likely not get worse as fast as they might, but they will not get better. As I noted earlier, these transmissions are pretty robust, and can take some heavy working. Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Aivars,

Good pick on the car. Should last forever.

Regarding the dim dash lights, do a quick search and you'll find all the options. The ones that worked best for me were to "jump the connectors" and "paint the inside reflectors". It is quite nice now compared to my other dash which still waits its turn....

I think what you'll find is that there is a non-essential list which always begs improvement. Items like door handles, vacuum issues, dash lights, etc always need attention. The essential part of the MB diesel (engine) is what endears us to them. They are bullet proof!

Don

__________________
DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

Aviars

Interior door handles. You can use the handles from the rear doors (which don't get much use) Drivers door will always be broken-some kind of german law I think.

same for cruise control, but probably different law. Same spirit.


Tripacer;

You must be delusional if you think you can change a womans mind!:p

__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"

I was curious and just read the Redline Website about using synthetic oils in a manual tranny. Bottom line is synthetics designed for crankcase use are too slippery for the syncros so Redline adds "friction modifiers" to their manual trans oils so the syncros will work properly. I wonder what "friction Modifiers" are.

__________________
LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold