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  #1  
Old 09-02-2011, 02:03 PM
Ol'Smokey's Avatar
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first time adj. valves, a few ?'s

Hey guys, decided to adjust the valve's on my 240 and have a few questions. I have the valve cover off and have some bent wrenches. When I try to loosen the lock nut the valve's just turn. Can I hold the adjusting nut and then lossen the lock nut, or do I have to hold the spring retainer to loosen the lock nut? Are the threads normal in the sense that I loosen the lock nut the same direction I would loosen any regular nut or bolt? Thanks for the advice!

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  #2  
Old 09-02-2011, 02:12 PM
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do you mean you are trying to loosen JUST the lock nut, with a single wrench?

or are you using both wrenches to turn the lock nut, but once it's loose, you cannot adjust the valve nut without the valve turning?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
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My drivers:
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2011, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol'Smokey View Post
Can I hold the adjusting nut and then lossen the lock nut...? Are the threads normal in the sense that I loosen the lock nut the same direction I would loosen any regular nut or bolt?
Yes on both counts.
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  #4  
Old 09-02-2011, 02:51 PM
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You have to use both wrenches at all times. With both of them on you loosen the lower nut to allow you to adjust the top nut down. They are threaded just like a normal nut and bolt.
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  #5  
Old 09-02-2011, 04:46 PM
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sometimes you need the 3rd wrench to hold the retainer nut on the spring when the whole valve wants to turn. I have only had one do that, and stuck a screwdriver into the spring to hold it till the nuts released on the valve.

most times the 2 bent wrenches will work w/o the valve turning.

Charlie
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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

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  #6  
Old 09-02-2011, 05:13 PM
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Re: the third wrench

Pic in post 8: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=302339

It holds the large valve spring retainer. As described above, usually only necessary if the valves haven't been adjusted in a while and the nuts are really on tight.
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  #7  
Old 09-02-2011, 05:15 PM
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Thanks for the help guys! I got them all adjusted and am going to put the valve cover back on. The exhaust valves were all pretty close, but every one of my intake valves had zero clearance. So I backed them all out to .004. My next question is about the throttle stop on the pump. Can I turn that all the way in to try and get a little more fuel? I just replaced both fuel filters and am trying to get a little more pep out of the girl. When I open her up she barely produces any black smoke, if any at all. All the other linkage seemed to be adjusted properly. I know it will never be "fast", but a little more get up and go with a little smoke trail would be nice...
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  #8  
Old 09-02-2011, 09:02 PM
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... NONE of the exhaust valves were tight? and ALL of the intakes were tight?
I'd go back and VERIFY you got the right valves... I've NEVER had a single intake measure zero on an adjustment, and NEARLY all the exhaust's I've measured were zero... the exhaust valves are hotter, and thus the seats wear quicker...
before you put it all back together, check again!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #9  
Old 09-02-2011, 09:34 PM
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I agree with John. In my experience the exhaust valve clearances are always tight, sometimes really tight. While the intakes are usually much closer to spec if not fine.
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  #10  
Old 09-02-2011, 10:39 PM
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Thanks guys. I haven't started it yet, I'll double check in the morning. The tolerance's are set to .004 and .012, which one is intake which one is exhaust?

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