Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #61  
Old 03-22-2012, 03:57 PM
home of 4,5,6,8 cylinders
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 504
is there a key to adjust the shifting to tighter on the w115 240d trans?
Other models have that provision.
thanks.

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #62  
Old 03-22-2012, 07:12 PM
Precision Somethingist.
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NW Washington
Posts: 278
I have the feeling that this thread will grow...

and I hope to be adding to it. I have the old transmission out of my '81 240D that I pulled a few years ago. I am too curious. I MUST get inside and find out what went wrong with it. On a trip to town one day, it just up and stopped moving the car. I want to build a tear-down bench for it- stainless steel, slightly (very slightly) sloping, with a drain for fluids to go into a large bucket, and a screen for BB's, springs, screws......and lots of LIGHT!


snapped_bolt
__________________
'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....
Reply With Quote
  #63  
Old 03-23-2012, 08:49 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD300 View Post
is there a key to adjust the shifting to tighter on the w115 240d trans?
Other models have that provision.
thanks.
Do you mean you are looking for a special tool as in "a key" or are you looking for a trick / method to adjust the shifting behaviour.

In either case you need to post up the transmission type - what's it going to be a 722.108? - and whether it has a vacuum modulator as well as a throttle linkage - or both or not - or just an adjustment screw for the modulator pressure - or not!

The 722.118 - the subject of this thread - is very specific to particular W123 300Ds from about 1980(ish). Furthermore I've only covered the mechanical pulling it to bits and putting it back together - as I said in the beginning of the thread adjusting the bloody things is a whole different ball game. That's a whole different thread.

To get an idea of what you may need to do have a look at this thread on the wiki

PeachPartsWiki: Transmission Vacuum Modulator Adjustment
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #64  
Old 03-23-2012, 08:52 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by snapped_bolt View Post
and I hope to be adding to it. I have the old transmission out of my '81 240D that I pulled a few years ago. I am too curious. I MUST get inside and find out what went wrong with it. On a trip to town one day, it just up and stopped moving the car. I want to build a tear-down bench for it- stainless steel, slightly (very slightly) sloping, with a drain for fluids to go into a large bucket, and a screen for BB's, springs, screws......and lots of LIGHT!


snapped_bolt
Sounds great - the more information posted on the forum the better our common knowledge becomes - my guess would be the splined shafts on the front planet assembly or a front pump issue. Either way strip it down! Good luck.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #65  
Old 03-25-2012, 04:55 AM
home of 4,5,6,8 cylinders
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 504
Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Do you mean you are looking for a special tool as in "a key" or are you looking for a trick / method to adjust the shifting behaviour.

In either case you need to post up the transmission type - what's it going to be a 722.108? - and whether it has a vacuum modulator as well as a throttle linkage - or both or not - or just an adjustment screw for the modulator pressure - or not!

The 722.118 - the subject of this thread - is very specific to particular W123 300Ds from about 1980(ish). Furthermore I've only covered the mechanical pulling it to bits and putting it back together - as I said in the beginning of the thread adjusting the bloody things is a whole different ball game. That's a whole different thread.

To get an idea of what you may need to do have a look at this thread on the wiki

PeachPartsWiki: Transmission Vacuum Modulator Adjustment
I have been able to firm up the shift, but wanna to raise the RPM wen shifting, as shift too early cause the tranny to flare up.
Thanks
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #66  
Old 03-25-2012, 07:44 AM
Mercedes Benz Diesel Doc
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern Spice
Posts: 26
This thread is awesome!

Thank you very much to the one who started this guide. This DIY write up was a great help to people with 722.118 tranny
__________________
1974 240D Sara
1977 300D Kristina
1979 300CD Claudia
1984 300SD Helga
1985 300D Pepper
Reply With Quote
  #67  
Old 03-25-2012, 01:58 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD300 View Post
I have been able to firm up the shift, but wanna to raise the RPM wen shifting, as shift too early cause the tranny to flare up.
Thanks
It sounds like you'll have to get hold of a copy of the FSM for your car with the shift point data so you can tune the throttle linkage / vacuum / modulator pressure screw. Again I can't really help you with that kind of information if I don't know your transmission type and vehicle type (as in type.chassis for example my 300D is a W123.130 <= it is a W123 (type) with the .130 chassis and sometimes the country in which it was originally sold is necessary)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #68  
Old 03-25-2012, 01:59 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scout-Ranger View Post
Thank you very much to the one who started this guide. This DIY write up was a great help to people with 722.118 tranny
You're welcome.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #69  
Old 03-25-2012, 02:01 PM
Precision Somethingist.
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NW Washington
Posts: 278
Hmmmm....

What is the difference between the 722.118 and the 722.117? The one I will be tearing down form my '81 240D is the .117 version. Maybe the valve body. We will find out!!!


snapped_bolt
__________________
'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....
Reply With Quote
  #70  
Old 03-26-2012, 03:26 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by snapped_bolt View Post
What is the difference between the 722.118 and the 722.117? The one I will be tearing down form my '81 240D is the .117 version. Maybe the valve body. We will find out!!!


snapped_bolt
I've never seen one but I think you'll not see anything especially visually different - I guess the governor is a different part 'cos the shift points are a bit different for the 240D as it uses a different rear differential final drive ratio.

For example a W123.123 (240D) which has a 722.117 has a 1:3.69 final drive differential and a W123.130 (300D) which has a 722.118 has a diff with 1:3.46 final drive ratio.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #71  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:18 PM
home of 4,5,6,8 cylinders
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 504
some one told me to look for a linkage ( those mini ball joints set ) on the pass side.
I found it and able to shorten the throttle pos, It did help, still need to tighten up some more.
Is not flaring up now.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
It sounds like you'll have to get hold of a copy of the FSM for your car with the shift point data so you can tune the throttle linkage / vacuum / modulator pressure screw. Again I can't really help you with that kind of information if I don't know your transmission type and vehicle type (as in type.chassis for example my 300D is a W123.130 <= it is a W123 (type) with the .130 chassis and sometimes the country in which it was originally sold is necessary)
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #72  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:32 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
This you won't see on a post 1980 722.118!

I was asked recently to find out if the seal on the modulating pressure control rod on a 722.0 could be replaced in-situ. This is the rod that comes out from the casing next to the B3 brake band adjusting nut and the kick down solenoid.

The short answer is no. It is a transmission out job. A bit of a pain if your 722.0 / 722.1 transmission leaks from this part.


PLEASE NOTE if you have a post 1980 722.118 which is the main subject of this thread this is something you don't need to worry about.

HOWEVER most transmissions are not "vacuum only" so I guess it is worthwhile adding this information here even if it is only for the pre-1980 722.118 boys...


PLEASE NOTE (2) I am assuming that the casing of the 722.1 transmissions are more or less the same as the 722.0 - I think they are - if you look at the parts diagram that I linked in post # 2 right at the start of this thread, the parts for the both series of transmissions are lumped into one PDF. I have to warn 722.0 owners looking at this information - I've never even seen one!

If someone out there knows for sure that the 722.0 and 722.1 transmissions use the same castings - I'd like to hear from you.


Here are the pictures of the 722.112 I've got in my garage that show how to get to this pesky seal.



Note that the bell housing section of the transmission has already been removed.



Filter removed =>



To remove the valve body (as before) just undo the 13mm hex head bolts =>



Take your time removing the valve body - be gentle



My middle finger is rather rudely pointing to where the lever on the end of the rod pushes up against the button-like bit next to my index finger on the valve body.

Here's a close up of the inside part of the rod assembly



It was at this point that I realised that the rod can not be removed from the transmission when the B3 brake band and brake drum is in position.

Anyway on the outside of the transmission - removal of the rod =>





Under the part in my hand in the picture above there's a pronged circlip-clip-like thing and a plastic bushing.

And here it is - after I've pulled out the B3 brake band and brake drum (I wasn't very kind doing it this way but the whole gear set was being a bit stubborn - take your time if you decide to remove the B3 brake band and brake drum or the whole gear set - you can knacker brake bands quite easily)



I hope this helps.

You can see the seal that leaks on the shaft...
Attached Thumbnails
722.118 Automatic transmission rebuild (Monster DIY)-722_112-lever-rod-inside.jpg   722.118 Automatic transmission rebuild (Monster DIY)-722_112-removing-rod-linkage.jpg   722.118 Automatic transmission rebuild (Monster DIY)-722_112-removing-rod-again.jpg   722.118 Automatic transmission rebuild (Monster DIY)-722_112-seal-rod.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #73  
Old 08-11-2012, 02:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 127
Army - I know you're not covering the modulator pressure adjustments but what about the other two forms of pressure, regulating and working, how are they adjusted or measured?

Great write up!!!

Thanks,

Chris
__________________
1985 300D, 250k
1980 300SD, 180K
Reply With Quote
  #74  
Old 08-11-2012, 04:36 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckamila View Post
Army - I know you're not covering the modulator pressure adjustments but what about the other two forms of pressure, regulating and working, how are they adjusted or measured?

Great write up!!!

Thanks,

Chris
The names for each type of pressure seem to change depending on which book you are reading. The 722.3 ATSG manual talks about regulating pressure but the 722.1 ATSG manual does not.

To be honest I'm still scratching my head on all of this stuff at the moment. I'm slowly collecting as much information as I can though. I plan on doing a second thread on how I fitted and adjusted the sodding thing...

The 722.1 ATSG manual calls the pressure that gets adjusted by the throttle linkage (what I was talking about in the last post I made) the control pressure - but later on in the book they say it acts on the modulating pressure (which is why I called it that) and that it ignores the governor pressure...

All in all the only pressure that you can adjust (as a normal person anyway) on a 722.118 vacuum only transmission is the modulating pressure via the vacuum dashpot (and that bloody valve on the top of the engine).

On the 722.118 pre-1980 (ish?) no vacuum set up that does have the throttle linkage rod you apparently turn a screw for the modulating pressure where the vacuum dashpot would be on the later models (see link given at the beginning of the thread for more information about the early 722.118s) and then you've got the control pressure (= modulating pressure) again.

On most of the petrol engined fitted transmissions you've got modulating pressure done in two ways => vacuum dashpot and via the throttle linkage connection (as explained above also called control pressure).



Deep breath!


As for any other pressure on the 722.0XX / 722.1XX - what ever it is - what ever it is called - it can't be changed by mere mortals. It can't be adjusted. If the working pressure isn't high enough then the front pump is worn and that's it (for that pump anyway)

I'll make a picture tomorrow of the position of the test port positions.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #75  
Old 08-11-2012, 05:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 127
Army - Thanks for the detailed answer. How much transmission experience do you have?

I should have mentioned i have a 1985 300D TD with the 722.4xx transmission which i believe is different than all the other 123's but is used on the w201 190D. My transmission was rebuilt but a hack company and continues to have problems double shifting with flare at the 1 - 2 shift. The mechanic i used for projects i don't want to tackle tried (at my suggestion) the after market ? K1 shift kit without improvement - his thought was a possible bent clutch. The 1 - 2 flare is most noticeable with the transmission cold and worst in the winter.

Always looking for more info on these wonderful cars...... don't know if the other pressure systems, other than the modulating pressure, could be the issue. Also the valve body could be an area to inspect. Your write up has far more info than any other thread or video i have seen - Thank you for taking the time to provide pictures which added detail to your thread!

Too bad Mercedes did not produce a transmission FSM

thanks,

chris

__________________
1985 300D, 250k
1980 300SD, 180K

Last edited by ckamila; 08-13-2012 at 03:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page