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#1
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Restoration of my 85 300D
Since I'm restoring this car I thought I might as well have a thread dedicated to it.
Here's a video of the car when I bought it, with the knock... http://www.youtube.com/user/NGARover#p/a/u/1/vJVoQsqLTa4 At this point is was a 500 dollar car delivered to me. The interior and general condition of the body prompted me to try and fix her. After a mishap trying to figure out the knocking engine, http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=303557 With this result... Ya, I admit I'm a moron sometimes... live and learn. It was time to start looking for a new engine if I ever wanted this car on the road. So I located a new engine, well a fully rebuilt engine with a documented 1025 miles on it, and it's going to be the new heart in the car. I traded my 81 300D even for it. So, Out with the old as they say.... Pulled out the old engine this morning. Of course, nothing goes totally smooth... I still can't get the ficken speedo cable out of the transmission. After actually breaking the damn part thats spouse to be what holds it on. I finally just had to cut it to finish getting the engine out. So it looks like I'll need a replacement part for the transmission PLUS will have to install a new speedo cable in the car... I've done the searching on here, from what I read that cable should just pull out, I've tried vise-grips on it, then hitting it with a hammer etc... it not budging. what's the trick here? Also, does anyone have a shot transmission laying around that can get me a replacement end to fix the broken part? Here's a shot of the empty engine bay, next step, fully clean and degrease it and paint it... Basically, I'm going to remove all the trim I can and everything from the bay I can then take the car into town and have it repainted. The good part is that I have another 85 sitting here, so I hae something to look at when I go to put it all back together. More to come... |
#2
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Quote:
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I am glad you are saving the car instead of parting it out. Looks like your replacement is an SD motor. You'll need to swap the motor mount arms, oil filter housing, A/C lines and the intermediate plate if it does not have the RPM sensor mount (which looks like it doesn't) while the engines are out. . .
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#3
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Good start - I'm subscribing to this thread.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#4
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I always try and clean everything before I work on it, makes things easier for me. So I cleaned up the old transmission somewhat, and will give it a good cleaning after I separate it from the old engine.
The pictures are for me also, so I can look at them when it's time to reinstall. What's the 49? I figure while I have the trans out, I might as well replace the pan seals and whatever else I have easy access to. Any good lists as to what I should get for it? The trans mount and drive shaft mount are already on the list. (names?) |
#5
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I'd consider the o-rings on the dipstick, maybe the B2 piston if unknown, probably the shifter bushings.
Is the tranny currently sitting on the pan? Is that wise? I thought the pans bent pretty easily. Were there any leaks? Would a pre-emptive front shaft seal replacement be good or risky? |
#6
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names are transmission tailshaft mount, or trans motor mount. and two flex discs also, replace the center bearing and support mount. and inspect the ujoint while you have it all out. I pulled two today, and both were binding in the ujoint... fun.
I will look and see if a pictorial DIY is up for changing the center bearing. I made a few mistakes, doing on the fly, and would like to make notes for a DIY if one is not already up. and yeah, I'd TOTALLY recommend a front seal kit install with the trans sitting on the ground.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#7
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#8
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I have a spare 300d trans, and no need for it. free if you take it out.
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1977 240D turbo |
#9
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cool! where are you?
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#10
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getting closer to putting it back in. got the trans installed on the new engine today, swapped around the engine mounts, added the RPM sensor. Swapped the Trans cooler lines as they where different, including the way they mounted to the engine... I'll work in the oil filter housing tomorrow. Looking closer at the speedo cable... man that was a real bonehead move. I don't know what I was thinking not taking the screw all the way out, of course, completely out the cable drops right out.. sign... I'll have to order a new replacement cable. the break seems to be one that I can JB weld together without issue so I'll do that tomorrow also and let it setup.
I was going to really take my time and replace everything that needed it as I went but my wife's 99 e320 wagon dump the transmission. (I was following behind her on the interstate when smoke started pouring out if it and I could smell the clutch burning. So I have to get this car on the road for her asap. I'm homing to have the engine back in later tomorrow of saturday. |
#11
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Went ahead and did the oil filter housing tonight also. Not only is the housing diffent but the hard line going from it to the top the turbo is different as well and required swapping. Had one issue getting one of the bottom bolts loose on the filter housing, it was on so tight on the old engine that I ended up stripping it, took a torch, big visgrips and a rubber hammer to break it free. Fortunately the new engine housing had the same bolt in perfect condition so I was able to use it. Turns out some PO replaced the engine mounts etc, they are in great shape. Same goes for the trans mount.
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#12
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Need a few parts, could someone link me to them?
1. new AT filler tube. In replacing my starter when I first got the car, it seems I bent the flat part where the tube mates to the transmission, and I can not get it to seal. I have tried to flatten it but have not had any luck getting it perfect enough. 2. the O ring that goes on the above tube... Don't see it listed at fastlane. 3. The copper crush washers (4) for the AT cooling lines where they go into the trans mission. IT's this little crap thats holding me up as far as putting the engine back in, well, looks like I need those engine shocks also, I thought I had a good set but SD are different then D. The mounting holes on the SD version don't matchup. |
#13
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Ok, engines back in the car. I "fixed" the AT filler tube by flattening its base best I could then using red gasket sealer on it. That should keep it.
Question about some other engine parts... Do I need to also swap the thermostat housing? they are different. Also, notice that c shaped tube that goes from the head to the water pump? my 300D engine does not have that, on the original engine thats just bolts... how about the stuff on top of the valve cover, It seems different as well. Engine is still tilted in pictures since I have not bolted up the trans to the car yet. I'll do that in the morning. |
#14
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Just because it has an SD engine it's still not an S class...
That's going to be a solid ride when it hits the road.
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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD |
#15
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Post #13, top pic, no turbo, at least I can't see it or any egr valve.
Cali engine? I'm not terribly familiar with 85's tho. Bottom t'stat housing is fine.
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83 SD 84 CD |
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