240D W-115 grinds going into 4th
I have taken my 1975 240D 4 speed out on a few test drives, so far both the clutch and trans work great in all ways but one. Going into fourth at high RPM's it grinds. I can shift it very slowly, like third to neutral wait a count of 2 then neutral to fourth and it won't grind.
I have pressure breed the clutch system from the slave up several times and feel pretty confident there isn't any air in the lines. The shift rods were disconnected when I swapped engines so I guess they could be out of adjustment but it solidly goes into 4th. I do not know the age of the slave or master cylinders, I could replace / rebuild them. Would bushing present this problem? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks |
what oil is in the case?
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I assume the trans has a fill level bolt, is it the same one that you fill with? Any preferred MB manual trans oils? |
Cool, another oil thread....
I have been very happy with Mobil-1 10W-30 in my 1980 for a couple of years now. Mine is raggedy at the 1->2 shift, and changing th oil really helped with it. It is starting to feel a little funny again though, like the oil is losing viscosity in there so I expect to refresh it and check out the condition of the oil once it cools down in the garage this fall. I put that oil in b/c that is what my owner's manual said to use. They changed the manual by the next year tho, and I have seen lots of members say they are happy with a specialty oil like RedLine MT. |
Of course getting the oil right is essential too, but....
The benz tranny is very sensitive to shift lever adjustment. You must take off the levers to adjust properly, align the shifter levers all in a row using a drill bit, then put the levers on the tranny all in their neutral position and adjust the rods which go between so they go in without moving the levers on the shifter or tranny at all. Of course the bushings on the rods also should be renewed at the same time if there is any play in them. And finally there are bushings inside the shifter which can be renewed as well if it is sloppy. It is all pretty easy to do really.;) |
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Refilled with Castrol 100% synthetic gear oil, made my grinding much worse. What used to be a small grind going from 3 - 4 at high rpms is now a large grind going 3 - 4 regardless of engine speed. Plus now the 4- 3 down shift grinds as well. Durring searches I see debate about use ATF in these trans perhaps I should go that route. The bushing do not seem to have any play to them. Quote:
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It isn`t the transmission end Tom was talking about. It is on the shifter end where the levers need to be lined up.
Eeach one of the 3 shift levers under the shifter assembly has a hole in it. on each side of the levers is a upside down "V". Insert a 0.24 inch or a 6mm diameter pin, drill bit etc...through the hole provided. this locks the levers in the nutral position. Be sure to remove the 3 clips and disconnect the shift rods to the transmission. then adjust each one and reattach to the shift levers. Do you have a Haynes manual? good picture of how to do it. Charlie |
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Ok so the trans now has Dex II / Dex III compatable ATF in it which brought me back to where I started, grinding on 3-4 at high RPM.
Thanks Charlie & Tom for the shift rod alignment primer, the linkage that was off by quite a bit is now aligned correctly. However, I still have the grinding if I try to shift to quickly. Should I just chalk this up to old syncros and shift slow? |
my 240 will grind into second on the up shift. If I hesitate a bit then it will go in w/o grinding.
I checked my alignment, and the problem I found, was the arm on the transmission was loose for 2nd gear. this is on the old iron box trans. I tightened up the bolt and secured the arm. that really helped mine some what. sometimes you can find the Haynes manuals in the Library, used book stores, Good Will, E-bay, CL etc... Charlie |
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