It's Sunday and I'm stuck on my #6 broken GP extraction. '97 NA OM606.912. Got the starter off, no sweat. Removed all bolts holding the filter housing (from EPC diagram). This filter housing is attached by 3 bolts to the cooler and 2 to the block. Can't budge it though. Does the cooler come out with the filter housing or do they split apart? If the cooler comes out too, how do you untwinst those funky connectors to the block or head. (#281 in EPC diagram). Is there another bolt I'm missing, I removed the three between cooler and housing, and the two from the starter solenoid side. Can't see anymore, but I'm going down to get another look. The housing has to come off; I don't have enough access to even untwist the electrode sticking out of the broken #6 GP. Thanks, I knew you'd help. I'm going to attempt extraction with a Lisle straight-fluted easy-out, I'll report and take pix. If the OF housing comes off.
Slowski, NA but caffinated.

OK, OK, I got it, sorry false alarm. What I didn't see last night is the two long bolts. Yeah oily mess.

Hello! I also have snapped glow plug on number six and was wondering if someone might have pictures or a link to a "how to remove the oil filter housing". And what is the diagram that the topic starter was referring to? The plug snapped just below the nut so threads are still in and I was hoping I could get it out without taking the cyl head off...

The four 6mm allen bolts should be visible in this pic from a 606.96 engine

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May not be your specific Engine but there I think there is a WIKI and one Thread:
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I feel for you, that #6 was a pain. The EPC diagrams are on EPC.STARTEKINFO.com, a benz website, join, it is free even if they ask you for a credit card. Tons of model specific info.

Mine was a non-turbo, don't know for sure if turbo oil filter housing is different. After I had the starter off and back on, I figured out that I could get the filter housing/cooler off without removing the starter. Visibility in that area is a real problem. Also do not separate the cooler from the filter housing, comes off and on as one unit. When you remove the allen bolts, I think the coolant nipples just come right out. CHANGE THE O RINGS!!!! I didn't, it leaked when put back together, then it came apart again to replace the o-rings. By the way, the GP extraction itself was a nightmare over several evenings. The Lile straight fluted extractor did not work. What did was drilling, tapping, threaded rod, and pulling as described on here elsewhere. I drilled slightly off center and almost screwed the head. Go slow!, Check, penetrant, check, drill, check.....repeat. It does eventually come out. Designers of these glow plugs/head should be hung by their parts (private that is).

I know it has been a year since this post, but... I am coming down this same road, right now. #6 GP broken off, the electrode is sticking out. Have tried every vice grip and set of pliers that I own and cant get that electrode pulled out, to make drilling out that glow plug easier. And the oil filter housing is in the way to get a drill up to that glow plug.

So, to remove the oil filter housing. Is it just a matter of backing out those 4 6mm screws that are circled in the pic posted here and pulling it out? Removal of starter not required?

Thanks guys.

I don't know about the Oil Filter stuff but if by the Electrode you are speaking of the Tip/Heater Element of the Glow Plug the Glow Plug Reamer Size is 7mm. Meaning a 7mm Drill Bit if it goes in straight would be safe to use.

Or measure the outside diameter of the tip of one of the good Glow Plugs.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Couple of things from my bad memories of #6 GP. The OF housing does come off without the starter being removed, but it makes access easier the first time. Once you master where the bolts are, you can do it by feel only. there's just enough room to precisely slide in the ellen wrench. Long allen wrench is a must, 5mm I think, but don't remember off hand. Before you take the filter housing off, open it, let whatever oil flow back into block, and wipe any excess after filter removal. It will still be an oily experience. As I said before, when putting it all back, change those pesky o-rings on the cooler or they WILL leak.

As far as the electrode, best to keep turning/pulling to snap it off. Mine snapped off just inside the remaining GP section, and interfered with drilling straight. I still call for a campaign to extradite from Germany the engineers that designed this, and the managers that are complicit, and try them here for crimes against humanity.

Im not able to fit my drill in between the oil filter and the GP that needs to be reemed out. This is why im trying to get that oil filter housing out.

Yeah.. i think the whole problem is steel glow plug(although hollow) bolted into an aluminum block. Once that aluminum is cold, it tightens down on the glow plug. Or something like that.

I made two major mistakes when attempting to remove this glow plug. 1) I tried to remove it while the engine was cold. I did manage to back it out some. It is probably about 25% backed out.
2) I attempted to remove it with my impact wrench. The impact didnt budge it. What it did do, was started to round off the GP nut.
So, after working on it for a couple days, and running back and forth buying differnt types of extracter sockets. My Gator grip socket, of all things, got a hold of the rounded off nut better than anything else. Unfortunately, I eventually broke the nut completely off of the GP.

So, now, I have to get it out, because of the fuel that seeps out when the engine runs, by the GP being partially backed out. It is no longer sealing that GP hole in the block.

I'll probably end up trying to find a mechanic that can do the job. Dont think Im up to crawling under the car and removing that starter...

Ancient post but I may as well add as I'm doing it now:

1. the hex of the GP needs to be sheared off for successful drilling, use a hacksaw and cut the neck so the nut shears off if its easier. Then twist off.

2. use pliers / vice grip to twist off the electrode, it ususally shears at the base, this gives you a6-7mm hole.

3. drill down that hole with a 10mm bit about 15mm (measure the thread depth of your replacement glow plug). This will remove the threads holding the plug in.

4. Drill down 40mm with a 6.8mm drill (m8 tapping size).

5. Tap M8 with a plug tap as far as you can.

6. Extract, either with a slide hammer or pull with m8 threaded rod/bolt and washers / nuts etc.

7. use that 10mm drill bit, fill the flutes with grease and 'cut' out the carbon (turn by hand (not in the drill!).

8. use the m10 to 're-cut' the sealing cone at the base of the hole. You are removing carbon build up here rather than cutting the actual seat.

9. Fit GP with a product of your choice to prevent a repeat offence..

I'm swapping the box on mine so it will be much easier to avoid drilling into the coolant passages that way...

beers, HH

I suggest someone actually look inside of the hole to determine if there is carbon build up past the sealing area before using a drill bit to recut the seating area. I say that because carbon getting past the sealing area in the past has not been the most frequent reason for a Glow Plug to break off.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel