Pitman arm removal?

[martureo]

I'm trying to reseal my steering boxes using both the FSM and Army's wonderful guide.(first post here)

But for the life of me I can't get the Pitman arm off. I've already broken a Pitman arm remover I had (thankfully the store replaced it under warranty). I've let it sit in PB Blaster over three days now dousing it every once in a while. I've used a gear puller on it until I couldn't wrench it anymore and the same with the pitman arm puller. The thing just won't budge.

I'm thinking heat, but trying to figure it out since I've covered the thing in flammable penetrating liquid.



Anyone had any luck with removing these? I've still got one box to go and I'm getting a little discouraged.

[StaggerLee]

Heat is your friend! Wipe as much penetrating oil off as you can and hit it.

Another thing to try is to cool the shaft after you heat the arm. I have some "gum and wax" remover which sprays out a super cold substance. The cold shrinks the shaft (I know) while the heat expands the arm. Those air cans for your keyboard work too but you have to turn them upside down. (Caution - flammable!)

When your gear puller is good and tight, smack the end of it with a hammer while there is tension. Many times that will be enough to break it loose.

[martureo]

Well, I tried just one more time with the puller and an impact wrench. Figured that the puller was only $14.99 so if it breaks again and the store won't give me another I'm not too deep into it.

IT CAME OFF! No big pop, or flying across the room. It slowly worked it's way off.

So I guess the trick is really 3 days of soaking in PB Blaster. I just didn't wait long enough when I broke the tool last night.

[Marvelicious]

Originally Posted by StaggerLee

Heat is your friend! Wipe as much penetrating oil off as you can and hit it.

Another thing to try is to cool the shaft after you heat the arm. I have some "gum and wax" remover which sprays out a super cold substance. The cold shrinks the shaft (I know) while the heat expands the arm. Those air cans for your keyboard work too but you have to turn them upside down. (Caution - flammable!)

When your gear puller is good and tight, smack the end of it with a hammer while there is tension. Many times that will be enough to break it loose.

I see you got it, but for the next person StaggerLee's advice is right on. Soak it with penetrating oil (I prefer Kroil to PB Blaster, but even a shot of diesel is better than nothing), then heat and shock. Anything to separate the crystalline rust mesh that has developed.

[leathermang]

Originally Posted by Marvelicious

I see you got it, but for the next person StaggerLee's advice is right on. Soak it with penetrating oil (I prefer Kroil to PB Blaster, but even a shot of dfiesel is better than nothing), then heat and shock. Anything to separate the crystalline rust mesh that has developed.

How about getting the diesel in there... then EDM-ing the rust ?

Kroil has a great reputation (--- Machinist's Bedside Reader books---) and if I could drive somewhere and buy it I would already have some....but I keep putting off mail ordering it... maybe we need to do a bulk buy and split a gallon or something...

[Marvelicious]

Split? No way, I need a whole gallon! If you know any bench-rest shooters in your area, a lot of them use it. Its an excellent gun solvent - it penetrates so well that it lifts copper fouling from rifling. The best way to get it is to order direct. I see that the gallon has gone up about ten bucks since the last time I bought it. Are economists still trying to claim there has been "no inflation" over the last couple years?

[leathermang]

Thanks for the link...want to split a 55 gallon barrel ?

[Marvelicious]

Heh, that'd last me!

[leathermang]

Really useful, indefinite shelf life...what's not to LOVE ?