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#1
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Jacked up car tried to start it and now it won't start even on ground.
I jacked up the front of the car to try and get rid of air in coolant. I tried to start it when it was jacked up. It wouldn't start so I lowered it and now it won't start on the ground? Please help. Thanks.
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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles |
#2
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Quote:
Have you done anything to the fuel system lately?
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#3
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Nothing. It was closer to starting when I first jacked it up. Now it hardly turns over when turning the key. Could raising the car somehow lead to air in the fuel system?
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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles |
#4
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Also... it was starting normally before I jacked it up.
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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles |
#5
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If you had an pocket of air in the fuel system, it could have moved when you jacked the car up. Does it crank strong?
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#6
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It did crank strong the first time when it was up but no now it is not cranking strong.
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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles |
#7
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The battery is going flat. Needs a charge to get it going.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#8
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Yup. Recharge your battery, bleed the fuel system, and it should be good to go.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#9
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Ok, I've got a battery charger I'll hook up tonight. Why would the battery get drained by trying to start the car with it jacked up? Thanks for your help...you seem confident it is this simple which is good news for me.
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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles |
#10
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You are saying it is going flat from trying to start it? That surprises me because I have only tried to start it maybe 4-5 times. So you both think it is the air in the lines which is the problem? I'll bleed the air via the plastic screw pump. When will I know when to stop pumping the thing? Thanks
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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles |
#11
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Quote:
If you listen carefully, you will hear a relief valve opening inside the engine when the pump has done all it is going to do -- sounds sort of like a squeezing, squirting noise -- it's hard to describe but you'll notice it. It may not take long at all for this to happen -- 15-30 pumps at most -- because the pump does not bleed the entire fuel system. If the air is in the metal lines themselves going to each injector, the pump will be ineffective at bleeding because it doesn't push fuel that far. If this is the case, then the only options for bleeding the system are either extended cranking intervals (30-45 seconds at a time, 5-10 minute cool down period in between, maximum of 2-3 attempts) or else what most people would do -- loosening the fuel line nuts one at a time, cranking until fuel comes out the line, and then retightening. |
#12
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Forget what I said about extended cranking for bleeding the system ------ this not only works but is factory recommended for the 603 engine (86 and newer) but isn't likely to be as effective on a 617. It might work but it's a lot of wear and tear on the starter for an engine that wasn't designed the same way as the one they recommended that procedure for.
I ran my 603 completely dry on the side of the road one time and after rescue fuel was brought to me, cranked it for about 55 seconds with my foot on the floor until the thing was going. Starter survived the experience, but I won't be responsible if somebody else's dies. The thinking at the time was that with every few seconds that went by, the engine seemed to be getting a little more momentum and a few more cylinders hitting here and there, and it was better to keep that momentum going at the starter's expense rather than to "lose ground" by waiting for a cool down. |
#13
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#14
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Thanks. This morning I went out and it started. I did charge the battery. The air bubble must have moved overnight.
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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles Last edited by vstech; 10-17-2011 at 02:22 PM. |
#15
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lets move the cooling system question to a new thread!
I'll move it for you!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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