Switching ignition tumblers?
 

OK, I am switching out the ignition in my Gasser to the vacuum vlave diesel style for my engine swap. I got the assembly from an SD at the junkyard the other day. I would like to change it to use the key that came with the car so one key will work with everything. I have it down to what you see in the pictures. I don;t really see how I can go too much further but I'm sure I 'm missing some little trick.

Also, anyone know of a good tutorial for removing these. I want to be a little more gentle getting mine out then I did with the one at the junkyard. Poor thing:(

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t/DSCF3862.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t/DSCF3863.jpg

There are quite a few threads on here describing the process. It goes something like this: turn the key to position 2 (?) stick a pin (I think I used a jeweler's screwdriver. Many use a straightened paper clip) in the hole to release the dog, unscrew the black key tumbler surround. Reverse the process for installation.

From memory, IIRC it's position I.

And, I do recall the jewelers screwdriver working fantastically well because it creates some wedge action and limits your need to apply a lot of force for an extended time (all the rotation time of the surround).

X2 as said above.

To R&R the ignition switch plug, you also need to be in position #1.

Charlie

Cool, got it. After messing with it for a while with a paper clip and a small allen key ( the jewelers drivers I had have to fat of a body for more torque and hit the key) I found that being delicate with it isnt the way. I finally shoved the allen key down in there past where I was going and it loosened it right up.
Now that I have it off, is there any preventative maintenance I can do before I install it to gain a couple more years out of it?

Flush the tumbler out with repeated injections of WD-40 until the liquid comes out clean and not black. Then dunk it in soapy water to clean out the remains of the wd-40. Reinstall.

I wouldn't want to lube it back up afterwards? Or will that just attract crud?

Yes.

Use some graphite, nothing else.

NO,No,No Graphite
 

Graphite is an Abrasive.

Use

MB part # 001 989 26 51 10 "Lock cylinder Grease"


(And following WD 40 with H20 and Soap ain't a solution.)

I MIGHT use WD40 as a Flushing Agent ['Only thing it's good for] followed by
CRC Electrical Parts Cleaner (NOT AS Aggressive as Brake Parts Cleaner).
DRY.
Then the MB Lock Cylinder Lube.

agreement here from me!

Where did you get that?

"All grades of graphite, especially high grade amorphous and crystalline graphite having collodial property i.e. remaining in suspension in oil, are used as lubricants. Graphite has an extraordinarily low co-efficient of friction under parctically all working conditions. This property is invaluable in lubricants. It diminishes friction and tends to keep the moving surface cool. Dry graphite as well as graphite mixed with grease and oil is utilized as a lubricant for heavy and light bearings. Graphite grease is used as a heavy-duty lubricant where high temperatures may tend to remove the grease."

On the Mohs scale (measure of hardness,) it's a 1, the lowest you can have, much like talc. Long history of use as an industrial LUBRICANT.

The wd-40 flush and soap clean did magic to the tumbler on my daughter's 84SD. Learned that trick from someone on here.

what I see from this, is the wd-40 is cleaning out any grease or oil and debris that's in there, and the soap and water remove the wd-40 and leave a light soap residue that sorta kinda lubes the tumbler.
I'm sure it would work like this, but getting ALL the wd40 out with contact cleaning spray and installing the MB correct tumbler lube sounds like a better solution.

I've never heard graphite was an abrasive, but it's GOTTA be some sort of abrasive, even water is an abrasive due to it's oxidation properties. remember, some kinds of tumblers are softer than others, so while graphite may be fine for a house door tumbler or a chevy, it's likely not correct for a German car. it may work as a stopgap, but it may also cause other problems. especially if there is a lubricant in there, it tends to gunk up, and clump causing the key not to fit right.