om 616 Injection Pump Timing - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pr2501 · #1 10-31-2011, 06:04 PM

I have bought 25 years old 307d and i like it very much.

I have replaced injection pump, but can not make motor run normal any more.

So, tel me pleas if information below is correct can i take out injector, connect it again with pump and rotate motor to see
if it fires as he should?
"Note the degree of advance at the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley. The correct timing should be BTDC 24 degrees +/- 1 degree."

barry123400 · #2 10-31-2011, 10:52 PM

Search this sites archives for the ways of dealing with the injection pump timing.

Stretch · #3 11-01-2011, 04:21 AM

Hello pr2501 - welcome to the forum

Why oh why did you remove the old IP?

Anyway - have a look at this

PeachPartsWiki: How to Set IP Timing via the Drip Tube Method

It should help.

pr2501 · #4 11-01-2011, 04:43 AM

I haw got next:

The observed Degree marks were over 15 degrees ATDC (See pic). When I re-install the IP I will do that at the 15 Degrees ATDC that the Manual Calls for.

from

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297458-fuel-injection-pump-removal-oil-filter-still-617-952-a.html

I did as i have told:
now my injector fires until 10 degrees BTDC

I am using next technic :
moving from 30 BTDC degrees slow to 15 , and then i rotate it fast to get firing.
then i do the same with 14 degrees, and continue with 13, 12 ,11...
I have notated that complete firing i get until 12 degrease. After that firing is no so strong any more. And at 10 it almost disappears. So i will set my firing to 15 ATDC and make disappeare at 13.

Yes, why am doing this. I am new with diesel mechanic and can not find information from the people or web which i can use with sauces. Hope You will understand me and support me.

pr2501 · #5 11-01-2011, 04:47 AM

Army, thank you. I will study it afternoon.

I have removed it because it is some time that i do not have any problem.

pr2501 · #6 11-01-2011, 05:20 AM

Army , thank you again the link you have sent is very clear.

I have so also video on Youtube about it , but i did not removed pump element (spring and delivery valve), because the video did not say anything about it.

pr2501 · #7 11-01-2011, 10:25 AM

I have different IP (attached picture). Can i use the same technic?: (remove of spring and delivery valve.)

pr2501 · #8 11-01-2011, 12:58 PM

My pump elements from picture 11 (Your link) are different. Does my pump also have spring and delivery valve from picture 13 (your link)?

pr2501 · #9 11-01-2011, 01:26 PM

Ok, my 307d camper was love at first sight. I have bought it in terrible conditions. (really terrible). But i had a vision how nice will he look after reconstruction. And i have worked on it from august and i have spent almost all my free time on it. I presume many of people here will understand my filings.

So, motor was at end, and when i went to bought another one i have burnt all oil and...
after 400 km it broke,..., my oil lamp was not working. And temperature measuring was also not working. It broke 80 km before my final destination. So i have to use help transport to get to another motor location. And i have not another choose i have to bought another motor
even though he was also one in poor condition. (15 bar of compression). But that motor had with gas adding on IP also a air regulation. And i had i suspected that something does not run as it should because when i gave gas at first moment motor was strong but with more gas no difference. As I said earlier and i wanted to be a rough.
It is that i need challenge.

So to conclude i hope someone will find understanding and time to helpl me.

Stretch · #10 11-01-2011, 01:56 PM

I think you've posted two pictures of the same shot right?

First thing I'd do before taking anything apart is to clean. Get all of that gunk off so you don't get your hands dirty!

It looks like you've got the later MW-RSF IP - it looks little like mine - but I could be wrong. Even so it doesn't matter you need to follow the advice in the wiki link I posted and remove the hard lines to the injectors (that's step 3 in the wiki). It will then look a little bit more like the pictures in the wiki - such as this one

and

Stretch · #11 11-01-2011, 02:21 PM

Oh yes and just to make sure

1) Do you have a drip tube? Or can you make your own drip tube from old hard injector lines.
2) Did you align the marks on the injector pump before fitting it? (If you don't know what I mean you need to post back!)

leathermang · #12 11-01-2011, 03:00 PM

What Country are you in ?

pr2501 · #13 11-01-2011, 03:11 PM

I will make my drip tube from old ....
I did not make any mark because this pump is from my first motor. (not from this one).

Ok, i will follow the instructions. I was just asking in case the pump is different.
Thank you.

I hope that tomorrow will not have troubles at work so i will get home soon to work on camper.

leathermang · #14 11-01-2011, 03:17 PM

What country are you in ?
I am still not clear as to how much you have taken the pump apart..

Injection pumps are very difficult to fix for normal human beings ... as so many special tools are required to do it correctly...

please post ALL NUMBERS and identifying marks which are on your IP..
and the VIN of your car also...

pr2501 · #15 11-01-2011, 03:28 PM

Leathermang i will study your posts sun. I am from Slovenija.

When i removed IP i rotated it in clock direction with hand to see sequence of firing. And i have notated that it does all sequence in one circle. And another thing. It acts with resistance and then it stops at one point (as some spring is manage with it).So my question is if i have to mount IP in point of stopping after 2. piston and before the first piston fires (1,3,4,2)? At 24 BTDC?

Ok and just an theory question at what degrees explosion happens and how many degrees after you may see fluid is coming out of valve. ? I would like to understand how exactly motor works.