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possible sls work arounds for our wagons
I have been searching for a method to utilize a non wagon engine in a wagon and keep the sls system without swapping heads...specific case is a 1980 non turbo wagon
found some possible non mb solutions to provide for an external pump configuration |
The TE (gas wagon) has a hydraulic pump for the sls in the back of the PS pump. it fits & is the right capacity.
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603s use a tandem pump too.
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Those pumps look like really intriguing possibilities. Do you know if they put out similar pressures to the MB pump and how exactly they work? Does the pump only activate when a switch calls for increased pressure or does the pump run the whole time the car is running? I don't think the pump would need to run full time for a 123 sls system. A switch in the passenger compartment to turn it on when a load was added to the back would be adequate I think.
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Can one of those little pumps handle the high pressures?
-J |
Several years ago I bought a Euro TD with a bad engine and was in the process of converting it to a manual with a rebuilt engine. I bought a new convertible pump off ebay, had the hoses made up, everything installed then dropped the project when I found a Dodge PU to be my "road vehicle" (sleep in the back if necessary) Anyway I sold the TD to a guy from BC who later wrote me saying the system worked fine with a switch mounted in the glove box. He said something about not using the same filter, dont know why that was. The pump mounted very nicely down near the SLS fluid reservoir. But like I said I never saw it work with my own eyes.
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What's the current draw of a convertible pump? Glowing and leveling on a cold morning might strain the battery.
Sixto 87 300D |
I just realized that the 1987 603 head I have sitting here is from a wagon. Never thought about it before. So, because of that is it different than the regular sedan head? IT's been fully tested and cleaned and is ready to bolt back on but if it's something rare maybe I should sell it to a wagon guy and look for a regular head instead.
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Here is a copy of the info I have in my file, in case I ever get another TD, oh wait:D This is where I got the idea.
"The pump is from a Chevy Cavalier I think. The pun’p has 3 wires. Ground and 2 power wires, 1 for each direction. It is a power up and down. You only need power up So pick one wire and note which way pump ‘pushes” the fluid. On the supply to the pump attach it to your existing SLS fluid tank.. On the hi pressure hose originally on your pump, attached to the head, unbolt it at the fitting by the coil spring tower. Measure the hose for new length, bring the hose and pump to a hydraulic shop, theyll put a new end on it to connect to the new pump.. connect it up and your done. The electrical end is important. These pumps draw ALOT of juice. Use a relay (Ford starter solenoid is best) and wire it directly to the battery. Put a switch in the cab. When you energize the purr~ it will groan alot until the vahicle hits the height you selected ~Aa the arm attached ovar the rear dif. Once its there, it just recirculates the fluid, just like the factory pump. I nevar let it run more than 10 seconds at a clip. Pumps the car right up. If it gets too hot, It will shut down on its own till it cools." |
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