I found another 300SDL, this one a Black 1987.

Supposedly has a "bad head gasket" but I think its got a cracked or warped head.

I'm pretty sure I can get it really cheap, like $1500.

Im pretty good with tools, I do alot of work myself, whats involved putting a new head on this thing? And whats a new head cost? Does it include the valves, seals, guides and camshaft?

Heh - funny you should ask! I have two 300D's with the same motor and both need head gaskets (possibly heads.) Here's the bad news. You can only buy a brand-new head from Mercedes. They are $1300-$1800, depending on who you buy it from. That is a BARE head with guides only - no valves, vale lifters, camshaft, etc. New valve lifters are ~$20-25 each, new valves are ~$250+ for a set of 12. You can re-use the cam if it looks OK. You may be able to re-use the other old parts, but don't forget labor to swap them and have a machine shop check them out, etc. The lifters especially are probably worn after 200kmi. The head gasket kit, valve stem seals, etc are probably another $100-150 in parts. Don't forget that you'll need special tools to remove the prechambers etc. The head bolts are torque-to-yield, if stretched they need to be replaced also. While you're in there you should consider changing the glow plugs (IF they are old), they're a real bear to access with the engine intact. Ditto for the I/P vac shutoff - much easier with it all apart.

Overall, not a cheap project. I'm starting this myself (on both cars) and I expect it to be between $500-$2500 PER CAR, depending on what exactly ends up being wrong. I bought a bunch of the tools needed, instead of paying a shop to do it (was quoted a minimum ~12 hours labor for the gasket ONLY, much longer if the head is bad). DO NOT attempt this job without the factory OM603 engine manual!

BTW, ~$1500 is a decent deal if the car is in good shape otherwise, and is running. If it's not running I'd be very careful... you need to drive it and make sure the tranny, brakes, suspension, etc are all decent.

"There's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes."


Good luck,

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

How did yours get to need new head gaskets or a head? My 300SDL has 256K on it, I think its the original head, and have no signs of any trouble. Did yours run hot or what?

man, 1500 bucks for an SDL. even if it takes 3k to get i going, dont these cars normally go for 7-8k?? and on top of that, youd have an accomplishment to be proud of, and an engine that you KNEW was going to run for a long time. i'd go for it, but keep in mind this is coming from someone who hasn't even driven/owned that car
Ryn

__________________
83 300SD.......sold
96 integra SE....sold
99 a4 quattro....sold
2001 IS300.......sold
2002 330i.........current.
2004 highlander limited....current.

Both of them were overheated before I bought them. One was running hot for the first year I had it, the dealer told me it was "normal" as long as it's not in the red. WRONG! The OM603 should almost never exceed 100C, normally it runs between 80-95C under almost any conditions. Here's the scoop:


Car #1: Ran hot from day 1 (Aug, 97). Turned out to be a bad fan clutch and bad radiator. Replacing the fan clutch reduced the temps on the freeway, but it ran hot at idle. Replacing the radiator cured the hot running completely (fall 98?). No obvious adverse affects for the next 3 years. It was fine until 3 months ago, when suddenly the cooling system became highly pressurized, even when stone cold. That's one of the first signs on the head cracked or gasket leaking. (Read the other recent thread, "my car is a crackhead", for more info.)

Car #2: I got it dirt cheap 6 months ago because it had a bad head or gasket. Lots of oil in the coolant. The PO had overheated it a year or two ago, the cause was a bad radiator (which was replaced, along with the fan clutch.) When I bought it I flushed the system & tried sealer, no more oil leak, but the coolant level still drops slowly (~500-750 miles per quart.) Same high pressure when cold too. Runs great, doesn't run hot at all. Been driving it for the last 6+ months (and 6kmi) expecting to do the head job eventually, before the cylinder liners get steam/corrosion damaged.


But they're great cars when running properly!

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

I got my "cheap" 87 300D for $2k, needing a head gasket or head, with 229kmi. It had a clean title but had been in 3 serious accidents over the years. On the plus side, it had an 8-month old Mercedes tranmission & torque converter installed, still under warranty ($4000!), and recent Bilsteins (~$500.) Also came with new Neuspeed lowering springs (not installed). However, it needed:

Front brake pads & rotors
Vacuum pump
Fan motor for heater/AC
Tires
Alignment
Tie rods
Cruise control amp
Front main crank seal
Belt tensioner ass'y & shock
Tranny modulator adjustment
Vacuum leaks fixed (hoses in engine compartment)
Several bad vacuum actuators for dash vents (BIG job!)


...and probably some other things I forgot. I had to diagnose all of the above issues, btw, which took quite a bit of time. Anyway, I fixed most of the above, figure ~$1000-$1500 in parts, with "free" labor b/c I did it myself. Add the head job on top of that though and the cost goes up a bunch. After it's completed I should have a decent car that will last another 100-300kmi, though! I just wish it was a different color combo (white & palomino, I'm not a big fan of tan...)

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Check private message.

JCD

Thanks JCD, I never check those private messages!