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  #16  
Old 11-08-2011, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastropodus View Post
If the pressure in the crankcase is being relieved elsewhere (because the PO left some other place open to the atmosphere) then the oil cap test isn't going to tell you anything useful. Even a good engine with little blow-by will have some pressure at the oil cap.

Kurt
Is it possible there is pressure at the oil pan where the oil tube & the pan meet? Oil is all around the new grommet. I did forget to mention in my first post is that the vacuum pump has been changed from this engine & the one from the original engine was put on. Why....I think the fittings on the car didn't match.

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  #17  
Old 11-08-2011, 02:33 PM
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If the engine was from an early 116, it's vacuum pump was a dual diaphragm model that was very different than later pumps.
Yes, there could be pressure. Did you search and find the recent thread on a similar problem I mentioned?
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  #18  
Old 11-08-2011, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
If the engine was from an early 116, it's vacuum pump was a dual diaphragm model that was very different than later pumps.
Yes, there could be pressure. Did you search and find the recent thread on a similar problem I mentioned?
I moved the pcv hose to the top of the air cleaner,but I found out that there was not a drain tube so I got some oil on the top of the exhaust & turbo. I guess the air filter is not the correct one for this engine I then took a plastic bottle and put the pcv hose to that. No change at the rear of the car....still oil mist on the rear of the car. I couldn't find the thread you mentioned .
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  #19  
Old 11-08-2011, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oiler View Post
Well it does smoke alittle, esp at start up...but in comparison to other diesels I've seen it's normal. As I had mentioned earlier,I checked to see if this engine has blow-by. I did this by turning the oil cap off,but let it sit on the valve cover...it didn't move! I guess that's a good sign.

May I ask...is it difficult to pull the wrinkled expansion joint off? or will I have to remove the turbo completely? Will the exhaust have to be removed in that area? where exactly is this seal you mentioned..is it in the turbo itself? As you might have guessed..I don't know alot about these cars...

Thank you
The seal I am speaking of is like a tiny Piston Ring and is fits in a groove on the Exhaust Turbine on the Turbo Charger. You need to take the Turbo Apart to get at it.

I cannot remember the details concerning the removal of the Expansion Joint by itself.
I believe there are 2 clamps that hold it one. One on the Turbo and One on the Exhaust Pipe.
That section of exhaust Pipe is bent in sort of a lazy Z shape and is a separate section of Exhaust Pipe.
About under the Passanger Side Seat is a coupling that you can un-bolt for to separate that section of Pipe from the main Exhaust pipe and forward and up of that there is a U-bolt that bolts the Pipe to a Bracket.

Concerning the Turbo Removal (84 300D Federal) the Bottom Rear Nut where the Turbo Bolted to the Exhaust Manifold were easier to see and access from under the Car and to the rear.

Other comments:
If you do not have a lot of blow-by as stated before K would doubt if Crankcase pressure is causing the Oil to come back up the Turbo Drain.

Oil drains out of the Turbo by gravity.
On the Big Rig Trucks I have seen Turbochargers leak Oil (from the inside of the Turbocharger to the outside past the seals) when the Crank Case Oil level was too high and above the level of the Turbocharger Drain.

Anything blocking or restricting the flow down the turbo drain can also cause a leak.
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  #20  
Old 11-09-2011, 02:58 AM
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Does any one who answered these questions here think that the rings ate stuck & oil is by passing them ? Why... Has anyone heard of oil leaking past that turbo oil drain tube at the grommet? It sure looks like its being pushed up...It's definitely not leaking down the tube. Is it that hard to take out the turbo? How would that tube come out? I know there are two bolts ( that look like they are impossible to get to. If I were to just remove the turbo, will that tube pull out of the pan?
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  #21  
Old 11-09-2011, 04:45 AM
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What fuel has the car been using?
Has it been run on anything other than diesel?
It is unlikely that the rings have failed to the extent you describe unles some non diesel fuel was being used.
Is there iol dripping out of the exhaust tail pipe?
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  #22  
Old 11-09-2011, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
What fuel has the car been using?
Has it been run on anything other than diesel?
It is unlikely that the rings have failed to the extent you describe unles some non diesel fuel was being used.
Is there iol dripping out of the exhaust tail pipe?
As far as I know its always used diesel. But this engine has been swapped. I've heard that if these engines lay around for a year or so without being started or used the rings get stuck and you can use marvel mystery oil in the glow plug hole ( let it soak for a week) to free them up. There is no oil dripping from the exhaust just black soot. The back of the car from the bumper up the trunk (flat side of rear) has a oil film on it . My license plate which is white is now covered with this film.
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  #23  
Old 11-09-2011, 09:45 AM
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The u shaped tube feeding the intake manifold from the turbo is so easy to remove. Do it. This has a good chance of being the area of difficulty. So simple to examine and make a decision about it to pursue anything else first. Leave the possibility of harder issues until you have at least cleared the turbo of leaking oil.

Chances are usually if the oil control rings where this bad in the engine the compression rings would also be comprimised. Little or next to no blowby is a very good sign that the basic engine is not only intact but in pretty decent condition. The limited blowby also means the possibility of a damaged piston is not really there either.

I do feel the issue overall could become interesting if it is not the turbo. Still finding out if it is or is not the turbo has to be done first. There is just nothing else that could cause this that is so easy to check out. If the turbo is good then a head gasket next comes into the list of progressive possibilities in my opinion.
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  #24  
Old 11-09-2011, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
The u shaped tube feeding the intake manifold from the turbo is so easy to remove. Do it. This has a good chance of being the area of difficulty. So simple to examine and make a decision about it to pursue anything else first. Leave the possibility of harder issues until you have at least cleared the turbo of leaking oil.

Chances are usually if the oil control rings where this bad in the engine the compression rings would also be comprimised. Little or next to no blowby is a very good sign that the basic engine is not only intact but in pretty decent condition. The limited blowby also means the possibility of a damaged piston is not really there either.

I do feel the issue overall could become interesting if it is not the turbo. Still finding out if it is or is not the turbo has to be done first. There is just nothing else that could cause this that is so easy to check out. If the turbo is good then a head gasket next comes into the list of progressive possibilities in my opinion.


Once I remove that U shaped tube,what I'm I looking for?
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  #25  
Old 11-09-2011, 01:38 PM
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Oil, But since the engine is not smoking terribly, I suspect that the oil is coming out of the exhaust side of the turbo and being blown thru the exhaust system rather than thru the intake side.
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1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #26  
Old 11-09-2011, 02:46 PM
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I can't seem to download pics but after I removed the u shaped hose I can see there is damage to some of the fins in the turbo on the inlet side. I haven't taken the turbo off as yet to see if there is oil on the exhaust side of it. But I guess with damaged fins the turbo is shot?
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2011, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oiler View Post
I can't seem to download pics but after I removed the u shaped hose I can see there is damage to some of the fins in the turbo on the inlet side. I haven't taken the turbo off as yet to see if there is oil on the exhaust side of it. But I guess with damaged fins the turbo is shot?
if your camera is even remotely modern, the PP server will not handle the images. too large.
best to upload them to either google's picassa via a google account email, or photbucket or imageshack, then link to this thread by clicking on the image button above the text field (yellow box with mountain in it)
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  #28  
Old 11-09-2011, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oiler View Post
I can't seem to download pics but after I removed the u shaped hose I can see there is damage to some of the fins in the turbo on the inlet side. I haven't taken the turbo off as yet to see if there is oil on the exhaust side of it. But I guess with damaged fins the turbo is shot?
if it's damaged for sure, I can ship you a replacement turbo...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #29  
Old 11-09-2011, 03:29 PM
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That was my next question. What if any are the differences between a garett & kkk turbo ? Does one spool faster? IIRC the kkk has a easier way to adjust boost
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  #30  
Old 11-09-2011, 05:00 PM
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If there is noticeable unequal damage to the blades the turbo impellor is runing out of balance. Wiggle the shaft sideways to see how much play there is. Damage is usually caused by the turbine blades hitiing the housing with too much centre bearing play. Balance is critical at 150,000 rpm.

Running in a non concetric way with too much play. I do not think the turbo seals would maintain a good seal. As kerry mentioned leakage could be on the turbo exhaust side as well that is not visable.

I assume the area that was visable to you is not oily? The u shaped boot is also dry inside?

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