1983 300D-T dies after 2nd gear - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Lawngnome909 · #1 11-05-2011, 05:02 AM

My transmission kick down cable was always in bad shape but when it recently striped off the threads the transmission started having rough shifts and was having to let off the throttle a bit for it to change into 3-4.

I know this is a long post but I have retraced my steps and can't seem to figure out why the car gets bogged down or the engine shuts off after switching out of the starting gear (2nd).

I set off to replace the cable and figured I would replace the Transmission filter and pan gasket at the same time. I drained the fluid from the pan and tried to use the starter to align the torque converter drain bolt, I couldn't get it to align that way so I used the crankshaft bolt and turned it manually then drained the toque converter and replaced the Kick down cable and made sure it was operating correctly by hand while the pan was off.

I figured while i was at it that I should do an oil change and fuel filter change which I hadn't done since owning the car. Drained the oil and changed the filter and o-ring. replaced the canister fuel filter and the in-line fuel filter. I also replaced a few fuel lines.

I then put oil and transmission fluid back in the car. The car would crank but not start even after using the manual fuel primer. I took all the banjo bolts off the fuel system one at a time and cleaned them out. The car started after that and ran fine in the garage.

When I take it out on the road it will be fine in drive but when it goes to upshift it either dies or stays in low rpms in 3rd and won't go past 25-30

What I have done is make sure all the vacuum lines are connected especially to the transmission. The switch under the accelerator pedal is connected and is not stuck down, the pedal actually does not even touch the switch when fully depressed. I also tried disconnecting the switch under the pedal, nothing changed. I have disconnected the kick down cable to the throttle linkage. Made sure that the vacuum line on the valve on the injector pump is connected.

I am lost and I have tried to research as much as I can. Please help me.

wildest · #2 11-05-2011, 08:34 AM

Get a MityVac, search the procedure here, and start testing the vacuum system. And maybe the fuel pressure is down, just to add to the possible problems.

kerry · #3 11-05-2011, 10:29 AM

Try pulling the brown vacuum line off the shut off valve at the back of the injection pump and see if the situation improves.

vstech · #4 11-05-2011, 10:47 AM

try having someone press the accelerator all the way to the floor, and see if your injection pump linkage goes all the way to the stop...

kahea · #5 11-05-2011, 03:41 PM

If you have the old style primer pump, is it screwed closed?

barry123400 · #6 11-05-2011, 04:47 PM

Double check that you are reading the transmission fluid level correctly.

Lawngnome909 · #7 11-06-2011, 04:20 PM

The primer pump is screwed closed.

I removed the brown vacuum line at the pump and all it did was keep running after I removed the key.

The fluid level is within markers, are these transmission really that temperamental?

The plastic piece that the linkage connects to on the pump goes almost all the way to it's stopper.

There is a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust. The only things I did were replace the fluid and filters and didn't change any setting or do any adjustments of any kind. It is most likely a vacuum issue, right? Because those mightyvac things are expensive and I don't want to get one if I don't need to.

barry123400 · #8 11-06-2011, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawngnome909

The primer pump is screwed closed.

I removed the brown vacuum line at the pump and all it did was keep running after I removed the key.

The fluid level is within markers, are these transmission really that temperamental?

The plastic piece that the linkage connects to on the pump goes almost all the way to it's stopper.

There is a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust. The only things I did were replace the fluid and filters and didn't change any setting or do any adjustments of any kind. It is most likely a vacuum issue, right? Because those mightyvac things are expensive and I don't want to get one if I don't need to.

Twenty dollars or so at harbour freight. Cannot deal with vacuum issues suspected or otherwise without one.

At this time I do not have a clue what is causing the problem. Just have a careful look to see if anything was disturbed. A lot more ssmoke out your tailpipe is an interesting observation that may mean something.

Make sure the turbo boost line is intact from the turbo right through to the alda connection. They have been known to get parted when working in their vicinities..

kerry · #9 11-06-2011, 04:51 PM

Not likely a vacuum issue if it ran the same with the brown line disconnected. X2 on Barry's advice. You may have broken or dislodged the turbo overboost line but when that happens it gets low on power usually but not as low as you describe. That's why I thought that maybe vacuum was getting pulled on your shut off line somehow, limiting the fuel.

tangofox007 · #10 11-06-2011, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawngnome909

The fluid level is within markers, are these transmission really that temperamental?

Could you describe, in detail, the procedue that you use to check the transmission fluid level?

How much transmission fluid did you install and what type?

kerry · #11 11-06-2011, 06:30 PM

Which way did you turn the engine? Any chance something happened to the timing chain when you turned the engine, getting things out of time?

Lawngnome909 · #12 11-06-2011, 10:36 PM

I turned the engine clockwise with the crankshaft and the 27mm socket.

I did replace the valve cover gasket but didn't touch the timing chain.

I check the transmission fluid level using the red tranny dipstick, is there any other way?

The torque converter was drained of it's fluid also, any way that could be an issue? I drained the fluid and refilled it...

The smoke really only comes out of the exhaust when I accelerate.

I may have to take it to a shop... I may be in over my head... Could the valves come out of adjustment from me manually cranking the engine.

kerry · #13 11-06-2011, 10:45 PM

I think you have some kind of restriction in the air supply.

barry123400 · #14 11-07-2011, 12:05 AM

Too early to even consider hiring out the repair. Wait for some more responses and suggestions from members first. There is no gaurantee
a shop could find it right away. Although if you do eventually do the shop routine make sure it is one with lots of experience with these models.

It almost has to be something you disturbed. Chances of pure coincidence otherwise are there but very small in my opinion. I think without looking it up the fluid in the transmission is best measured with the fluid in the transmission warm.

Again wait for others of more experience or find an article in the archives on it. As Kerry suggested did you have the aircleaner off to change the cable and if so did you leave a rag in there for example?

tangofox007 · #15 11-07-2011, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawngnome909

I check the transmission fluid level using the red tranny dipstick, is there any other way?

The torque converter was drained of it's fluid also, any way that could be an issue? I drained the fluid and refilled it...

The devil is often in the details. Is providing the relevant details is too much to ask? There are plenty of ways to screw up a transmission fluid check, all involving the red dipstick. (Some methods involve two dipsticks: the red dipstick and the dipstick who pulls it.)

Let's make it simple. When you used the red dipstick, the engine was

A. Not running
B. Idling in Park or Neutral

Select one.