Yes, it's just over 200k, nearing 30 years old, it's not rare by any means. $3500 if anything else.... You kind of want to get it for the lowest price


Also noticed, 20w50 Amsoil every 3k miles... can you say expensive? Plus the engine should be getting 15w40, ideally. But that is a can of worms for another thread.

The values of a few years ago may not be as common since the general turndown of the economy. For awhile there prices seemed really depressed to what they once where.

Supply of decent cars of this vintage are becoming less at the same time. Basically pay what you feel comforatable with.

It is also not unusual to pay a little more than the going price for something you want in life. The prices on cars this old are not exactly written in stone either.

Try to remember you will probably still find things on this car you want to address or they will come with use. As for records they are seldom complete and should go back to when the car was new. Partial records are better than none of course but not particularily worth the same.

Original records are about the only way to tell the total milage accumulated over the years if the records are consistant enough. These cars where so easy to spin the odometers back when fairly new many got done to increase the resale value. Combine this with broken odometers left for a period of time plus used offshore cars brought in getting new speedometers showing basically no milage it is quite a crap shoot.

I have always figured with reasonable care the original drivers seat should still look pretty new up to 250k or so.

Your current issue in my mind is. Does he think he has a gold mine on his hands? Or is more realistic? Until you get some indication of what he is thinking there is not much point in speculation. Procastinate too much and it may also slip through your hands.

Two things that did elevate the value in my opinion was that the compressor was replaced and the air conditioning is both working and in decent condition. Plus the tires sound pretty new.

I think you are right about not wanting to insult him. On the otherhand him claiming he does not know what he wants might just be a fishing expedition to attempt to establish some form of value. He would not be the first guy to do that.

I'd pay $3500 for that car in a minute.

Since we members already have cars of this type.We perhaps tend to keep our wallets in our pockets more as well. The air conditioning service and partial rebuild and tires might be worth 1500 in my mind. People have paid 3k with no working air for reasonable examples reciently I saw.

Thanks for the comments. How much do you think it would cost to get the front drivers door painted below the trim line? I would like it to match a little better.

Also, do you guys consider your w123 300d a daily driver or just an extra hobby car?

Thanks!

I am looking at a rust bucket 84 300d. No maintenence records.
It runs and drives and all the glass, lenses and most body hardware is good. the guy wants $400 and I just want it for parts.
That gives you a spread from $3500.
Both my 240's are daily drivers.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

Mine are hobby cars. I do not know the division of each but there are both camps on site. I expect daily users predominate.

Summer use only is another catagory I suppose. In the northern climates especially they will not last in the salt.

Lower front door repaint should not be all that bad. With todays technology a match to older paint is easier.

Mine is more of a hobby car. The old 240D was my daily, and the 250 has been taking up the slack for short trips. When I had a 50 mile round trip commute I alternated the 300 and my bike.

I'd be willing to pay around $3000 for the car in question.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

The issue is the original paint is the enamel based stuff, single stage. Not many places shoot that any more due to EPA regulations. So to get a proper match you'd need the paint from the OEM or at least a very very close PPG mix.

I was thinking of using a modern spectrum anyaliser to match the faded out color with age. This colour should come out really close. Sourcing some old style paint is still doable. He needs little of it.

I'd go with the old style paint. That's the only way to get it truly correct.

Done, $1600

or you could just buy my 240D......

Or we could trade drivers door plus some cash on my part?

Nah, I'm not dealing with removing doors, aligning doors, etc....