1980 300TD Feels like brakes are on even though they're not.
 

There are a number of symptoms I'm having that could be from different problems. There is no smell like the brakes were on while driving though, so despite it FEELING like the brakes are on, I don't think they are.

#1. The car feels like it's really working just to move at 15-20 miles an hour. I have no tachometer unfortunately, but to me it sounds REALLY loud more than it should be.

#2. If I let off the accelerator the car decelerates significantly and doesn't roll hardly at all.

#3. Hard up-shifting. Especially from first to second. From what I understand this is likely a lack of vacuum.

#4. Strange "lumping" at low speeds, almost like the wheels were lopsided.

I was wondering what this sounds like to the experts. I was thinking it could be the transmission? What in the transmission could cause extra resistance and make the engine have to work harder? What else might it be if not the transmission? Thanks.

Answer
 

It sounds like one or more caliper is dragging, or the brake hoses are failing.

Here is a link you need to read http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/142411-brake.html



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what you can do is raise each of the wheels and see if you can spin it by hand (tranny in neutral of course).

I think you will find that one of the calipers is stuck. if the brake lines are old, then they might be all swollen up inside preventing the brake fluid from flowing through.

Can be a combined drag of several marginal calipers as well. Best check is to get an ir temperature gun or borrow one if you do not have one. If you were a working mechanic through familiarity you could tell with the wheelspin test. Your problem is a little subjective so do the temperature test. Post what you read if uncertain what the temperatures represent.

Drive a few miles and read all the disk brake rotors temperatures. Coast to a stop rather than braking so you do not read the braking temperatures. Try not to apply the brakes along the way.

You want to read the natural systems drag temperatures. Not the braking temperatures. You will compare left front rotors temperature to the right side rotor. Plus the same at the back rotors.

You do not want to see much of a temperature spread. Since this is the most common cause and actually the usual case it has to be ruled out first. You can have reasonble excessive drag without smelling brakes particularily. It takes a pretty heavy drag on a rotor to really get it hot enough to smell or turn the rotor red.

If it turned out to be not the brakes then it gets really interesting with things like the front end being so far out of alignment the car is plowing along. . Sticking calipers on older cars are quite common though remember.

I guess another test is to put the car on a flat surface. Can you push it by hand? If not something is wrong.The temperature test tells you where it is.

Upon further inspection the rear brake pads are completely gone. There's a fair bit of scoring on the rotors and I believe the rear calipers are seized as well. There's no question that the pads and rotors need to be replaced, so I can have the calipers diagnosed when I do that.

Do these part numbers and approximate prices sound right for a rear brake overhaul? Also, does ATE sound like the right type for a 1980 wagon? Or do I have to just pull it out to find out which type it is?

0014200620 (Rear Brake pads) ~$24 each
1264230012 (Rear brake rotor) ~$36 each
1234201283 (ATE Right Rear Wagon Caliper) ~$85
1234201183 (ATE Left Rear Wagon Caliper) ~$85

I suggest you call Phil at Fastlane for your parts. He will get you the right ones. The last thing you want is to order it from a no-name internet store and end up with the wrong or ill-fitting parts. Trust me, I have learned my lesson!

I am sure others here will chime in regarding this.

I think Phil has retired, but patronizing the webmaster is always good policy.
Fastlane is great.

The two caliper brands are interchangeable as long as you do both sides of an axle. Sane to go with the cheaper ones. ATE are substantially cheaper here.

If the calipers will not retract normally. Loosen the bleeder screws just to make sure it is a seized or sticking caliper. Not a problem with a fluid supply. It probably is the calipers though.

FYI
 

Phil is back. :D


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Answer
 

Call Phil for the best price quote.. :D


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Brand is not important on the calipers as long as they are BOTH the same on each axle!
keep in mind who you order from. the wagon has a different rear caliper than the sedan. be CERTAIN you get WAGON rear calipers!

but PHIL will get you the correct parts, and the best price and service.

Glad to hear that. He is GREAT at customer service.
Back when I was ordering parts, it almost seemed they arrived before I was off the phone.