About to embark on brake rotor replacement for a 1985 300 Turbo.
Got the rotors, got the new pads.
Have the normal complement of tools, but I am wondering what size hex sockets might I need for example to separate the rotor from the wheel hub??
Thanks

The rotor is secured to the hub by a lock-nut that is tightened by an allen key (under the grease boot). The largest socket you will need is for the removal of the caliper (smaller than 22mm, I think). Once removed, hang it away so there is no force on the brake-lines. Also, chech the opperation of the caliper. Rebuild kits are cheep and worth it. Both my front calipers had at least one siezed piston. Remove the bearings from the rotor, clean, chech, transfer, and regrease. Nothing special.

Also a good time to change brake fluid, unless it been done that year already.

ATLD

You will need a big allen socket to separate the rotor from the hub. Also, a vise to hold the old rotor while you turn the allen head bolt. I can post the size later. I am not near my toolbox right now.

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Jim

14 mm allen in 1/2" drive socket

__________________
Jim

ok got the allen head bolt that keeps the wheel hub/brake rotor on
What size are the allen bolts that join the brake disc to the wheel hub 14mm?
thanks

14 mm on a 1/2" drive socket

__________________
Jim

These are usually TIGHT -- I've normally had to use a hammer impact wrench to get them off. Put them back on the same way. You might get by with a large vise and a large breaker bar.

Why MB didn't use the wheel bolts to hold the rotor on I don't know -- works fine on all the FWD cars I have, should work with RWD too.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

ok, got the air tools, need the 14mm hex head socket
thanks for the advice

......after you separate front rotors from hubs, use a mill file, razor blade scraper and emery cloth to make sure that the mating surface on the hub is perfectly clean and FLAT..you dont want to distort the new rotors. Cover bearing hole when you do this so you dont get any crap in with the bearings. Also use high temp. lock-tite on bolts when you install new rotors.

Since this is the time to clean and re-pack bearings (assuming yours are good), put on a new set of grease seals.

Good Luck

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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver)
1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky)

Do an search and you can find the "over the counter" part numbers for the wheel bearings I posted when I redid the ones on my 300D. Go by you local bearing supply company and they are available. The tricky part is getting the correct "tightness" on the bearings when you put the hub back on the car. You have to develop a "feel" for it versus just aligning the nearest hole for the cotter pin. Pretty straight forward once you do a couple.

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Jim