Allo fellow diesel nuts.
1984 300SD. Pulled the old defective IP. Installed new injection pump at 24BTDC (first two cam lobes were pointing up-ish.) drip timed it as accurately as I could. Checked fuel injection lines three times to eliminate air leaks. Car now starts hard cold with an uneven idle (sounds like an air leak on the fuel lines or injectors, but isn't.) at idle there is a biblical amount of whiteish blue smoke that reeks of unburned diesel. It isn't atf, it isn't coolant, and it isn't motor oil. There is a known working ALDA present. Valves are all well adjusted and there isn't that much chain stretch.

Here's the odd bit. Once you're over 1500rpm the smoke is pretty much gone, and under no conditions does it ever make black smoke (which would be partially burned diesel.) The fuel in the tank is good, and I just put on two new filters.

So what's the consensus here? The car does run and drive with good power (better than stock) but the smoke at idle is absurd. Hit me with whatever questions and ideas you've got. I wish I had an RIV tool.

My bet is improper IP timing. The errors in attempting to perform a proper drip timing are legendary.

It sounds quite far advanced. Rotate the IP away from the engine a bit and see if it improves.

Will do. Glad you chimed in Brian. I have the IP lock tool but I've been completely unable to find any data on where to set the crank with the bolt in the ip. I heard a rumor it's supposed to be at 15atdc, but i decided to drip time it instead. I'll retard the timing a bit and report back.

How are your injectors? Have you had them pop tested for spray pattern and drip? Drippy injector(s) may cause the symptoms you have.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Injectors are solid. All new set from C Sean Watts. I even got to meet him for dinner at a dynamite German place in North Carolina.

Sean's a good guy! You said new IP. More details on that please.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

agreed! where did the IP come from? was it rebuilt and tested or is it a used one from a running car?

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

The rumor is accurate. The lock tool has a small notch in it and will supposedly engage the tang that is inside the IP. But, I warn you............it's definitely two man procedure and the man on the top will have to "feel" the engagement of the spring loaded notch. The notch is not very deep and the engine can be rotated right past it.

I was never successful in getting the tool to engage the notch and stop the engine from rotation (one man procedure from below).

If you are successful, please post your procedure...............

I'd really like to to try this procedure to actually determine how accurate you were with the drip timing (and support my conclusion that drip timing is notoriously inaccurate for most folks).

Did you advance the rack and lock it in that position when drip-timing? you could be about 8-10* off.

That, or the pump is not as good as you suspected

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Whitish Smoke that smells like unburned Diesel Fuel is late Fuel Injection Pump Timing. (The white smoke is atomized but not burned Diesel Fuel.

The smoke is most likely clearing up because as the rpms increse the Timer is advancing the Fuel Injection Timing to a point where the Fuel can finally burn OK.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Quick post to fill you guys in on today. As for the IP it came from Phil, so it's probably flawless, but just because a part is new does not mean it works! Phil is the MAN though.

So today, after building a new run for my chickens I went back to work on the SD. I rotated the pump away from the block to retard the timing a bit as Brian suggested, eliminated all air from the system, bolted everything back up and had a go. It took quite a which to start and only ran with my foot to the floor. Smoke now occurs at all engine speeds, and the engine is slow to rev.I don't think I retarded the timing quite that much... Overall, this adjustment has rendered the car undriveable. I am officially confused.

And yes, I did have the throttle linkage wired full open when I was drip timing.

Like one legendary procedure wasn't enough, now you add Kentucky windage.

Did you align the index marks on the IP before you installed it?

What orientation was the pump at with the crank at 24BTDC? It should have the wide spline lined up with the mark on the housing (about 10 O-clock IIRC). The other way (going on my memory here, so it may be wrong) on models with a governor port (I think that is what it is called), is to put the engine at TDC and use a timing tool that fits in the governor port to hold the pump at TDC. It seems that the smoking could only be IP timing related, as it did not smoke like that before the new pump was installed.
I have much experience with removing/replacing the IP on my former 190D. I think 4 times it took to get a good one, and to get it right. If you have to remove the filter stand, it is a pain in the rear.

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
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1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

When I installed the pump the first time I had the fan and shroud removed so I could turn the motor over, and I removed the oil filter housing as well so I had room to work. Yes the wide spline on the pump was aligned with the alignment mark. And I lined up the mark on the pump itsself with the arrow on the pump housing.

Today, I removed all fuel injection lines, removed the oil filter housing (again) and loosened the bolts on the pump (both bottom nuts where the oblong adjustment holes are.) I swiveled the pump maybe 1/4 inch away from the block and tightened everything back down. I then connected all fuel lines and the oil filter housing. I installed all the injection hardlines and purged the air by cracking the 17mm nut and hand priming until all bubbles were out.
I'd hesitate to call that kentucky windage