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#1
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rough idle again
hi,
sorry to bring up another rough idle issue: here's what i got 83 300SD (about 500,000 miles on the chassis but only 60,000 miles on the engine/trans) rough idle when hot, not as bad when cold but still rough here's what i checked/adjusted: valves adjusted (3 times with italian tuneup inbetween) ran with fuel cap off to rule out vaccum in tank issue rack damper (gold) adjusted- pretty much all the way in; no problem starting cold or hot cracked each injector, each time i opened one the idle got worse new fuel filters (2x replaced in the last 1000 miles), no black specs in primary fuel filter, also checked tank screen few months back and all is clean checked fuel pressure at line from pressure relief valve, sits right at 19 psi no visible smoke at idle basically 0 blow-by (engine only has 60,000 miles) checked timing chain stretch, about 2 degrees (checked via harmonic balancer method) diesel purge (2X)-made no difference motor mounts new-geniune MB rough idle goes away right around 900 rpm, ran with the idle set at that speed for about a day but engine will try to accelerate downhill since it's almost out of the governed idle speed. when i let it idle around 750 rpm the exhaust sounds like a gas engine that has an air intake leak (puff puff puff..lol) the car was sitting for 5 years before i rescued it,so i'm thinking it's either the IP or the injectors, since the car was sitting so long there must be something gunked up inside the IP or the injectors. the injectors look very rusty; i'm thinking maybe the old ones were installed in the rebuild engine (the IP is rebuilt as well) i was going to replace the injectors with new ones with monark nozzles (been hearing good things about those). the injectors that are on there now do look very rusty-i'm thinking maybe the original injectors from the old engine were put into this one, but they could just be so rusty from sitting for 5 years. so...before i go spent good money on those injectors i was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions; i've read somewhere about filling the IP fuel passages with acetone to remove any gunk; not really sure if that's safe on the IP any suggestions will be highly appreciated |
#2
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you said the rack damper bolt was adjusted all the way in, that sounds to me like the internal spring is worn on it... How does the tip of the bolt look. If it's been flattened out, that's a fair amount of wear. Should be convex tip.
You may want to grab a new one and try it out.
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'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto '19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled '21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition '95 E300d - SOLD '84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one '81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter |
#3
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I could be wrong, but it has been my experience that if the idle speed adjuster is not backed out before adjusting the rack damper, the rack damper adjustment will change nothing. When the idle speed screw is backed out, the governor is acting on the rack damper spring, not the idle speed spring (that is the way I understand it anyway).
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#4
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thanks for the replies; the rack bolt is new. i just unscrewed the idle screw all the way out and adjusted the rack bolt again, no change
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#5
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forgot to mention: has plenty of power throughout rpm range
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