idea for sound insulation on doors
 

the front plastic vapor barriers on the front doors on my car have pieces of felt like material which I beleive are for sound insulation. But are missing on the rear doors, just a cheap trash bag quality plastic which is completely crumbly now.

Im thinking of sticking ensolite 1/8 sheet on self cut 6 mil plastic sheet from homedepot (the original one MB uses are very thin). Does it sound like a good idea?

Maybe the sound absorbing material used by car audio shops
 

They have a lead lined sticky sheet which is what they use on high end audio installs. I suspect that the 1/8" ensolite is too thin to be effective. Cheers Dan

I've never seen that. I suspect it was someone else's homemade attempt at sound insulation.

On the doors on my w123 there was just plastic carrier bag type plastic. I understand that it is there to help stop damp ingression into the cardboard door cards and the cabin.

Search dynomat. Ive used it many times in the past on various cars and it's a great solution.

X2

Excellent product.

it's been suggested on here, that the Lowe's/Homedepot gutter liner material works fairly well, and is MUCH less expensive than Dynomat.

weatherstripping
 

I have used weatherstripping from Home Depot on my W123 doors- stuck it on top of the existing rubber strips. Good while it lasted (maybe 6 months), but then the adhesive has a tendency to get "unstuck".- probably due to opening and closing of the door.

Yes there is such a thing as lead foil. Many years ago I was given a good bit of lead foil that had a layer of about 1/4" thick foam on each side. The foam had rotted away so I just used foam rubber between the lead foil and the external sheet metal.

The sound is absorbed by the lead foil and dissipated as an immeasurable amount of heat. It is very effective, but the down side is obvious, excessive weight.

Hope this helps.

It's called " ice barrier ". It is meant to be installed on the bottom edge of the roof over the unheated eves. It has a plastic top and a sticky creosote bottom side. It costs about $25 for a 3' x 30' roll. You can cut it to size and use a heat gun, or hair dryer, to activate the sticky side. It works on vertical surfaces if the piece goes all the way to the bottom so it can't slide down over time on hot summer days. On the vertical surfaces you do not need to cover the whole panel, just a piece to absorb the vibration of that panel. I did the entire inside of a VW Vanagon Camper, floors, walls, and doors. It was so quiet and the doors closed with a solid thunk... just like a Mercedes.

photos anyone on how the ice barrier goes onto the doors?

Later 124's will have the felt/plastic on the front doors only, not rear.

Sound encapsulation panels probably make a big difference in the noise. For ultimate noise control...... replace the engine with a gasser :P

Someone on here loaded his w126, or 116, with dynomat... can't recall who. Keep us posted on what you try and how it works.

ive ordered some ensolite 1/8 inch - waiting for it. and I really hate the cheap thin plastic MB used for the moisture barrier on these cars, its incredibly flimsy.

Extreme Dynomat
 

Is this the thread you were think of?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/car-audio-multimedia/125099-123-install-extreme-dynamat.html

Charlie

Second Skin has a great array of products. I've used it in my early Z cars and Land Rovers with excellent success. The stuff from your local hardware store is not compatible with the vehicle environment. Please don't waste your money on it. Would you buy your tools from a Big Lots store?