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  #16  
Old 12-11-2011, 09:05 PM
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Maybe I'm wrong, but my impression was that even the latest w123 doesn't have an afterglow, so once the engine catches, the GPs turn off... So the intent would be able to drive for a little while with GPs on to help provide more heat after startup.

For example, I have a long distance to back up to get out my driveway. If I can keep the plugs glowing and minimize soot that way, seems to me to be a win.

My cars don't need it for drivability reasons, but I like the idea of improving combustion on a very cold engine.

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  #17  
Old 12-11-2011, 09:18 PM
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I just (this morning) had a glow plug relay failure. The fix was to clean the connections at the plugs, and open up the case to look for burned out components on the circuit board, and clean the relay contacts while I was in there. Works fine now.
I guess my question would be when the conversion was made to pencil type from filament, was the relay and associated wiring changed as well ?
I may be barking at the wrong tree, but I don't think the relays are the same, the wiring certainly isn't.
With an 80 amp strip fuse protecting the circuit, the Ford solenoid would be required to carry the load, most cube type relays have about 30 amp contacts at best. As far as a momentary contact switch goes, that is all my old Ferguson tractor has, and it works fine, and it has filament type glow plugs.
( edit: as far as afterglow, I think the relay times out after 110 seconds)
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  #18  
Old 12-11-2011, 11:52 PM
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I hacked into my glow plug controller to manually turn the glow plugs on. No extra (Ford) relay needed. Just a switch and wires tapped into the controller. I wrote about how I did it in a post with pics. Forcedinduction said there's a better way than the way I did it although he didn't post any details. Been working fine for a year or so. A timer is a very good idea and is on my to do list. I have been using a toggle switch and a chime so I do not forget to turn them off. Bosch Duraterms can be left on a long time without worry of burning them out. I left them on once, depleted the battery and they were fine.
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  #19  
Old 12-12-2011, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
I wrote about how I did it in a post with pics.
Please post a link and put an end to all this foolish speculation on what to do and how to do it. It's been done before............but none of them want to search.


Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Forcedinduction said there's a better way than the way I did it although he didn't post any details.
Who cares?

He never posted details of anything that he did. It was always more fun to criticize others..............
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  #20  
Old 12-12-2011, 12:50 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol'Smokey View Post
Hey guys, my glow plug system has been giving me a lot of problems lately and with a long cold Minnesota winter ahead of me I'm trying to make my life easier. Can I run the gp's off of a toggle switch or something and just eliminate the relay? I tried doing a search on this and didn't come up with much. I think the previous owner converted my 81' to newer style plugs because I don't have that squiggly (technical term) wire running between the plugs. The light doesn't come on, except occasionally while I'm driving and I can't hear the relay "click" off. The gp's all test good. Anyways some advice would be much appreciated. I just figure the simpler the system the less can go wrong....
The simple answer is in post#12.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/309647-homemade-loop-pencil-style-glow-plug-conversion.html

I don't ever recommend a throw/toggle switch.
On the OM615, 616 and 617 you need the glow plugs for starting.
The temperature gauge should reach 40° C within five minutes If the engine and cooling system are functioning correctly, even at -20° F..
At 40° C glow plugs should be worthless to engine combustion.

This is an OLD truckers trick that is still used today.
WINTER FRONTS
Winter/Summer Truck Grille Covers, Auto Grill Guards, Inserts, & Lights, Auto Exterior, Auto & ATV : Cabela's
Warning: The following can be dangerous to the engine if you fail to monitor the temperature gauge carefully:
Living in Michigan.
* Below -20° F I will cut some cardboard.
* Slide it in between the condenser and radiator.
This limits air flow = higher engine temperature/heat.
At -40° F or lower I have been forced to block 50% - 100% of the radiator air flow to achieve normal operation.
In winter I keep several sheets of cardboard and a box cutter in the trunk.

Again, if you fail to monitor the temperature gauge carefully the engine can and WILL overheat, potentially wrecking the engine or leaving you stranded.

.
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  #21  
Old 12-12-2011, 12:57 AM
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A previous owner of my 240D did something like that. The relay looks like the one used with 6.2 diesels in GM pickups. There was a momentary switch under the dash. Some of the wiring looked a little iffy, but it worked great and outlasted the car.
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  #22  
Old 12-12-2011, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Please post a link and put an end to all this foolish speculation on what to do and how to do it. It's been done before............but none of them want to search.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/291432-all-5-glow-plugs-burned-out-1983-300d.html


.
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  #23  
Old 12-12-2011, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol'Smokey View Post
Hey guys, my glow plug system has been giving me a lot of problems lately and with a long cold Minnesota winter ahead of me I'm trying to make my life easier. Can I run the gp's off of a toggle switch or something and just eliminate the relay? I tried doing a search on this and didn't come up with much. I think the previous owner converted my 81' to newer style plugs because I don't have that squiggly (technical term) wire running between the plugs. The light doesn't come on, except occasionally while I'm driving and I can't hear the relay "click" off. The gp's all test good. Anyways some advice would be much appreciated. I just figure the simpler the system the less can go wrong....

Once I added a spring loaded window switch in the dash of an old 240D. It simply snaps in place of one of the rectangular covers. I then mounted a Ford starter relay on one of the wheel wells under the hood. It's a cheap, high current relay. I then routed glow plug current through the secondary of the relay.

It worked great and looked right at home on the dash.

Hope this helps.
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  #24  
Old 12-12-2011, 09:35 AM
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Spring loaded window switch is a really good idea.
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  #25  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Spring loaded window switch is a really good idea.
Yes, except you cant crank the starter while pushing the button.
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  #26  
Old 12-12-2011, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Yes, except you cant crank the starter while pushing the button.
You don't need to.
As long as you crank within a few seconds of glowing, even sub zero temperatures won't matter.
The heat is contained within the PRE-CHAMBER for that long.

In winter it is CRITICAL to insert key, turn to glow, wait until you hear the glow plug relay thunk as it cuts off, then crank the engine.
In extreme sub zero temperatures you may need to glow three times before cranking.

.

Last edited by whunter; 06-16-2012 at 10:50 AM.
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  #27  
Old 12-12-2011, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
FYI: The existing glow circuit cuts OFF the moment your ignition key hits the starter crank position.

.
I thought that we came to an agreement where the glow circuit remains on during crank and is disengaged during run............??
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  #28  
Old 12-12-2011, 01:35 PM
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If we haven't come to that agreement, we should.
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  #29  
Old 12-12-2011, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
I hacked into my glow plug controller to manually turn the glow plugs on. No extra (Ford) relay needed. Just a switch and wires tapped into the controller. I wrote about how I did it in a post with pics. Forcedinduction said there's a better way than the way I did it although he didn't post any details. Been working fine for a year or so. A timer is a very good idea and is on my to do list. I have been using a toggle switch and a chime so I do not forget to turn them off. Bosch Duraterms can be left on a long time without worry of burning them out. I left them on once, depleted the battery and they were fine.
FI did post details, he said just use the purple wire. no need to open up the relay... this assumes the relay is working, and it also assumes that the purple wire energizes the relay during cranking. does anybody know if these things are true?
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  #30  
Old 12-12-2011, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
and it also assumes that the purple wire energizes the relay during cranking. does anybody know if these things are true?
Kerry and I do...........

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