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#16
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Maybe I'm wrong, but my impression was that even the latest w123 doesn't have an afterglow, so once the engine catches, the GPs turn off... So the intent would be able to drive for a little while with GPs on to help provide more heat after startup.
For example, I have a long distance to back up to get out my driveway. If I can keep the plugs glowing and minimize soot that way, seems to me to be a win. My cars don't need it for drivability reasons, but I like the idea of improving combustion on a very cold engine.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#17
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I just (this morning) had a glow plug relay failure. The fix was to clean the connections at the plugs, and open up the case to look for burned out components on the circuit board, and clean the relay contacts while I was in there. Works fine now.
I guess my question would be when the conversion was made to pencil type from filament, was the relay and associated wiring changed as well ? I may be barking at the wrong tree, but I don't think the relays are the same, the wiring certainly isn't. With an 80 amp strip fuse protecting the circuit, the Ford solenoid would be required to carry the load, most cube type relays have about 30 amp contacts at best. As far as a momentary contact switch goes, that is all my old Ferguson tractor has, and it works fine, and it has filament type glow plugs. ( edit: as far as afterglow, I think the relay times out after 110 seconds)
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1984 300 D runs, interior 1984 300 D light hit in front, RUST, mint/perfect dash, decent interior (see above), parts car (hate to kill one) 1998 Dodge diesel |
#18
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I hacked into my glow plug controller to manually turn the glow plugs on. No extra (Ford) relay needed. Just a switch and wires tapped into the controller. I wrote about how I did it in a post with pics. Forcedinduction said there's a better way than the way I did it although he didn't post any details. Been working fine for a year or so. A timer is a very good idea and is on my to do list. I have been using a toggle switch and a chime so I do not forget to turn them off. Bosch Duraterms can be left on a long time without worry of burning them out. I left them on once, depleted the battery and they were fine.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#19
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Please post a link and put an end to all this foolish speculation on what to do and how to do it. It's been done before............but none of them want to search.
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He never posted details of anything that he did. It was always more fun to criticize others.............. |
#20
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Answer
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/309647-homemade-loop-pencil-style-glow-plug-conversion.html I don't ever recommend a throw/toggle switch. On the OM615, 616 and 617 you need the glow plugs for starting. The temperature gauge should reach 40° C within five minutes If the engine and cooling system are functioning correctly, even at -20° F.. At 40° C glow plugs should be worthless to engine combustion. This is an OLD truckers trick that is still used today. WINTER FRONTS Winter/Summer Truck Grille Covers, Auto Grill Guards, Inserts, & Lights, Auto Exterior, Auto & ATV : Cabela's Warning: The following can be dangerous to the engine if you fail to monitor the temperature gauge carefully: Living in Michigan. * Below -20° F I will cut some cardboard. * Slide it in between the condenser and radiator. This limits air flow = higher engine temperature/heat. At -40° F or lower I have been forced to block 50% - 100% of the radiator air flow to achieve normal operation. In winter I keep several sheets of cardboard and a box cutter in the trunk. Again, if you fail to monitor the temperature gauge carefully the engine can and WILL overheat, potentially wrecking the engine or leaving you stranded. .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#21
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A previous owner of my 240D did something like that. The relay looks like the one used with 6.2 diesels in GM pickups. There was a momentary switch under the dash. Some of the wiring looked a little iffy, but it worked great and outlasted the car.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#22
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Answer
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#23
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Once I added a spring loaded window switch in the dash of an old 240D. It simply snaps in place of one of the rectangular covers. I then mounted a Ford starter relay on one of the wheel wells under the hood. It's a cheap, high current relay. I then routed glow plug current through the secondary of the relay. It worked great and looked right at home on the dash. Hope this helps.
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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual 2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution |
#24
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Spring loaded window switch is a really good idea.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#25
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Yes, except you cant crank the starter while pushing the button.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#26
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Answer
You don't need to.
As long as you crank within a few seconds of glowing, even sub zero temperatures won't matter. The heat is contained within the PRE-CHAMBER for that long. In winter it is CRITICAL to insert key, turn to glow, wait until you hear the glow plug relay thunk as it cuts off, then crank the engine. In extreme sub zero temperatures you may need to glow three times before cranking. . Last edited by whunter; 06-16-2012 at 10:50 AM. |
#27
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I thought that we came to an agreement where the glow circuit remains on during crank and is disengaged during run............??
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#28
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If we haven't come to that agreement, we should.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#29
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#30
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Kerry and I do...........
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